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Everything posted by MartyNZ
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Don't encourage him! He thinks he's pretty bloody clever, but he owes me a beer for the velocity stacks that I bought off Scud, but somehow became part of DD's bike.
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Is that because of Meinolf's map on the 15M ECU, or the trumpets and Pod filters, or the cool looking shark gill exhaust weird thing?And what fuel trim did you settle on, or are you still experimenting?
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I think black would be best. If it blended in with the engine, then the engine profile would still look great, and wouldn't distract from the accent colours. That gorgeous paint job you did on the valve covers and pork chops, and the sharp wheel rim stripes are both eye catching enough, I think. Too much bling and people might think it's a Harley. How does it run with those filters & trumpets? BTW, is that the 50 in the foreground that bucked you off and gave you gravel rash?
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That stuff has a shelf life of about a year, but only weeks if you open it. It cures on exposure to moisture in the air, so lasts longer if you can store it airtight with desiccant, or in the freezer. One shot applicators are a good idea, but I still find myself throwing away three tubes of a five pack just when I want some.
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This Eagle badge is listed as GU02517700 "adhesive label" in the parts manual. If your badge is grit blasted into an unrecognizable mess like mine is, you could replace it. Brace yourself for the price though.
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What are you planning to strip Docc? If it is your fairing, is it metal or fibreglass? Stripping metal is fine, but some strippers are just as good at eating resin as paint. You should take care stripping any composite fairing. If the stripper attacks resin, you can be left with a spongy mess of bleached fibre matting. Maybe you could test a hidden spot on the fairing. Stripper can damage painted plastic like your fuel tank too. This is just in case you didn’t know. I'd hate to see a Moderator cry.
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There is some discussion about fitting round fin covers here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15406&hl=%20round%20%20fin%20%20valve%20%20cover Now that would be different.
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Relax! Scud is just trying to sell you his parts bike.
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I agree with Chuck. I asked Micha at Moto International an oil question, and he said to me "Just ride your bike".I took that to mean "it doesn't matter much, just follow your handbook, and stop fussing".
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The compound Zinc Chromate is a dirty yellow color, which weathers to brown if exposed to the weather. If it is used in etch primer then it is immediately covered with pigmented paint. ZC etch primer is applied in a very thin layer and is yellowish clear. ZC is a very good component of primer paints but usually has pigments added for UV protection, and to help the painter check coverage. The pigments can be yellow, green, grey, or even red oxide. If you look at pictures of an Airbus in construction before it is painted, you can see the Spanish, British, French, & German parts looking like a patchwork of different shades of yellow and green. Zinc Chromate is poisonous, and has been restricted in EU since 2004ish, and more recently in USA, but is one of the best compounds for protecting against corrosion. I think that you should select the color shade that you want, and use a good automotive paint. Most primers are intended to be overcoated. You can get a phone app that uses your camera to determine the pantone color that may be useful.
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following the complete text of the message I send Marty. Does this clarify things? ummm yeah Marty forwarded me that email thanks.Hello DD, did you try Scud's velocity stacks on your bike yet? Maybe we could do some more adjustments on your ECU this weekend? We could try fuel trim at zero.
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Ratchethack... for President?
MartyNZ replied to ScuRoo's topic in Special place for banter and conversation
Good Plan JRD.Can I partner with you? I'll set up a refugee camp on my back lawn for the displaced US citizens. You can send them over to me, but they can only stay till 'Merica is great again. (Not that USA is not already great; that phrase confuses many people in other countries. All USA needs is to get rid of 1 cent coins, and adopt the metric system). Hopefully that will only take a few months. The downside for my dog, is he wouldn't be able to run around the house anymore. He would only be able to ran, 'cause it's past tents. -
Mmmmmmmmmh ... beeeeer!
MartyNZ replied to helicopterjim R.I.P.'s topic in Special place for banter and conversation
Wine? - No! -
Mmmmmmmmmh ... beeeeer!
MartyNZ replied to helicopterjim R.I.P.'s topic in Special place for banter and conversation
Beer is important in NZ too. https://youtu.be/ZnGrQ0P3T8Q -
Aye . . . +48 would be A LOT "richer" than stock. (Factory V11 CO setting is usually in the minus 30 range). Yet, I'm not sure just how much the actual air-fuel ratio is changed with the "CO fuel trim." Meinolf said "The CO trim value is not part of the BIN. The value is stored in the EEPROM in the ECU, and that’s not read or written with the Reader and Writer software." So now we know that the previous owner of DD's 15M ECU, before Scud, set the fuel trim to +48. No wonder DD was melting the seal on the "Coaltrack Road Raceway" proving track. I still had a 3000 rpm hiccup occasionally with my Ti ECU, even with +15 CO trim, before Meinolf fixed things. So I wondered why DD was so pleased with his new Ti ECU. Now I know. So now both DD's & my bike have 15M ECUs loaded with Meinolf's #42 .bin file. My bike has CO trim at 0, standard airbox, & Ti mufflers, and it is behaving well. DD's bike has CO trim at +48, a shark gill exhaust weird thing that sounds awesome, crossover under the alternator, and intakes are still a work in progress. I can see another visit to Coaltrack Road coming up for my computer.
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Ratchethack... for President?
MartyNZ replied to ScuRoo's topic in Special place for banter and conversation
Don't get me started!All the progressive innovators of NZ lost the vote for the flag change to the 'stuck in the past', 'no change' bog dwellers. The BDs were probably still angry that we adopted decimal currency and the metric system, and thought "we had enough change last century". So the NZ flag still looks like the 'Straylian flag. A crying shame. (You will notice that I have been quite circumspect with my own personal views on this subject, so as not to offend anyone, but still, what were the dimwits thinking?) -
As vuzzi said, you could check the cap resistance. They will unscrew from the lead, and should be 5k ohms. If you fit new caps, remember that Italian bikes run best with red caps and plug leads.
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Octane ratings are hard to compare between countries. Research Octane Number (RON), Motor Octane Number (MON), and Anti Knock Index (AKI) are different measures of octane ratings. Australia, New Zealand, & parts of Europe use RON. Canada, USA, & parts of South America use AKI, which is an average of RON and MON. You may see (R+M)/2) on the pump. AKI is 4 - 6 units lower than RON for the same fuel. We can buy fuel with alcohol from a few Gull outlets in NZ. A brewer here has an ad campaign "drink more beer and save the world" as they sell Brewtroleum at Gull outlets. I'm doing my bit to save the planet. Who's with me? https://youtu.be/gfxGpGmpDPs https://youtu.be/QuRT8lkSZno
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Are the cylinders getting to the same running temperature? Rich mixture means cool running, and uneven temps mean uneven mixture between left & right. What do your plugs look like? A leaky injector will make one plug sooty, while the other remains good. Both plugs the same probably indicates a tuning problem.
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My local auto electrician offered me an automobile fuse & fuse holder. Its not red, but it is cheap, and is not so big that the seat won't latch down. See the pink fuse in the bottom RH corner of attached photo.
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I've been thinking about this, and I agree with Kiwi_Roy, when he said in post 13 of this topic "As you can see the fuses aren't blowing, it's just a high resistance that causes heating". The ONLY possible way that a fuse can melt without fusing is if there is contact resistance between the fuse and fuse holder. All the other things that I and others mentioned can worsen the problem, but a bad connection is the cause of heating. You need another fuse holder. When you have fitted the new fuse holder, fit the fuse with great gobs of vaseline or similar. The grease will squeeze out to allow metal to metal contact, but should keep the connection tarnish free for years.
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Would you like to borrow my battery so you can narrow down the cause? My bike has an oil leak from a valve cover, so will be off the road till I get another gasket and fit a helicoil for one screw.
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Twelfth South'n Spine Raid 2016
MartyNZ replied to Blueboarhound's topic in Meetings, Clubs & Events
How did George have time to make such a great video? Doesn't he have a TPS to adjust, a relay to replace, and alternator wiring to fix? Where is the episode on the oil leak, and the tune-up? And not a hammer in sight! Unless he has one of those bikes that you just ride? -
Fueling with the engine running!!!! not only a risk to yourself but everybody else using the petrol station. Lucky the station attendant didn't catch you, he would have had kittens.I'm sure that Nigel was following all the procedures for "Hot Refueling" after completing a hazard reduction risk assessment, and was wearing OSH approved PPE.