MartyNZ

Good job. Better suspension, lower unsprung weight. How does it handle? I've been wondering if there is a tire that has lower weight. A cheap way to reduce unsprung weight? I've not been able to find any info on this. I weighed a new Bridgestone Battlax 120/70ZR17 T32 at 4.39kg, and a worn BT023 at slightly heavier. Have you weighed any tires?

Have you seen this post?

Woah, before you buy a new regulator, how about cutting out the bad connector, and crimping the wires. A bad connector doesn't mean you have a bad regulator

+1. I think that a poor ground from the regulator to the bike is the reason for many overcharged batteries and failed regulators.

The pinch bolts make the yoke quite tight on the spline, and there may be some slight distortion of the yoke where it touches the spline. A sharp edge can get swaged/smeared so it touches the end of a spline tooth in the recess for the pinch bolts, that will make it hard to remove. Assuming there's no rust, I'd try opening the pinch slot of the yoke with wedges (big flat bladed screwdrivers) then tapping & levering.

My bike has always been the same as your bike. I don't plan to change it. The open end of the centre sliding spline faces back, so less road spray can get inside, but spline lubrication may be slightly worse with the grease nipple at the low end. As for alignment of the 2 halves of the shaft, the yokes on the shaft must be on the same plane, and the yokes on the gearbox/transmission at each end also on their own plane which is 90° turned. If it is wrong, your gearbox, shaft, and rear transmission feel torsional vibration. This would be bad. See the video pointed out by @Chuck https://youtu.be/5aCK4Bob6a0

Everyone has a favorite, so you are unlikely to get complete agreement on the best. It's hard to go wrong with the popular brands, as @GuzziMoto said. Have you seen this post: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/28190-a-test-report-for-v11-tyres/

Brad. what kind of file did you use for the inventory? I had trouble reading it.

I got a spare lid from @Scud some years ago. I had grand plans to modify it for my bike, but decided that I liked the standard airbox so didn't use it. Also no chick in NZ seemed to dig it, so if I still have it, you can have it for nix +shipping cost. PM me. Shipping from NZ to UK varies from eye-watering to arm/leg/first born, so be warned.

Have you seen this: Front brake disc 320 mm, Griso 1100, 307,97 € (hmb-moto.de) 307,97 € or even cheaper: Front brake disc 320 mm, V11, Cali EV, Jackal, Stone etc., 199,00 € (hmb-moto.de) 199,00 € Röttenbach is just down the road about 7 hours away from Gld Moto Guzzi manual lists part number GU01613330 Front brake disc, quantity 2

Chain drive? I think this is a rebadged Benelli. Cool restoration

The Sport 1100i manual says "Absolute pressure transducer. This transducer is powered by the electronic control centre and gives information about the absolute pressure in the air filter box. This transducer is connected to the filter box through a small pipe. Its output signal will produce a correction signal as function of the barometrical pressure". On the V11 there is a pressure transducer built into the ECU.

I looked at one end of the driveshaft in my spare parts box, the one with the grease nipple. It doesn't have a relief hole in it, so I expect that it is in the other end. I wonder if the "hole" is actually a partially burst disk or frost plug fitted in the end of the shaft. Maybe excess grease has made it's own escape path. I think that making sure that old grease is removed, and a clear relief hole is a good idea.

On my bike, that hole looks more like an imperfection when it was made, but nevertheless it is necessary. Old grease gets thicker over years as the oil seeps out, leaving mostly the thickner/soap behind. If possible I try to scoop out or flush out old grease. Your picture appears to show fresh grease, which would be thinner (and better).

There's a hole in the back end of the shaft to allow excess grease to escape from inside. If that hole was blocked, then suspension movement would break something. Grease will cause a hydraulic lock.

Neutral shown, marks align when in first gear. Docc is right (again). I think it's best to fit the plate with the gearbox in neutral and the plate set as shown.

I always make sure that I turn the engine forwards before valve adjustment too. We know the thrust washer on the forward end of the camshaft can wear on the fwd face, so the shaft is loaded aft when running. I assume this is because the cam lobes run off-center of the cam followers to rotate the followers. Turning the engine backwards may let the camshaft move forward and change the valve clearance. Also the oil pump will deprime itself so oil pressure will be slower to rise on the next start.

What is broken? If it's the wires at the base of the sensor, then it can be fixed. I pulled Cash1000's sensor apart, and dug out the resin potting compound to expose 2 terminals in the base. I crimped copper sleeves over the terminals & shortened wires (they were too long anyway) then repotted the cavity with epoxy.

The factory spring might last that long, but you can be certain that it will break eventually. Chuck did the calculations on the factory spring and determined that it was poorly designed. It needed to have another turn in the loops. Otherwise, in normal operation, the spring wire deflection exceeds the elastic limit, going into plastic deformation (the permanent set). Then metal fatigue is followed by breakage, followed by a trip home in 2nd gear. 😟 A picture showing the 2 versions of the springs are shown in the link below. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/20201-re-engineering-the-shift-spring/?do=findComment&comment=272760

All your questions are well founded, except the one about tires. Like oil, there's lots of good choices, everyone has a different favorite, and trying to get consensus is a lost cause. This site offers answers to all the other questions, but searching inside the site can be tedious. I've had good luck using Google and "V11lemans.com" plus your topic. As for answers, I'll take the one about relay bases. Two things can go wrong, there's a plug hidden under the base that can come loose, and the terminal sockets in the bases can slacken due to frequent relay changes. See @Kiwi_Roy s post

Which plugs are from the lower cylinders? I thought that those could have more oil fouling, but there doesn't seem to be any sign of that. Your oil scavenge system must be good. I've never been able to reach firm conclusions looking at plugs. It seems that they look different depending on whether they were removed after a long taxi at idle, or a cut from power. If it was an idle fuel cutoff, then my opinion is the RH plug was running a bit lean. Unleaded gas always makes the plugs look a bit darker than leaded avgas; what do you use?

Have you read this? https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/20772-ram-clutch/page/2/#elControls_238925_menu And this: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/21247-scura-single-plate-clutch/#elControls_242019_menu

I fitted Aprilia disks to my bike after the original disks wore below limits. Part number: AP8133781, Brand: Sunstar. "Vespa APC Aprilia Derbi Gilera Piaggio Scarabeo genuine spare parts" written on packaging. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/23922-encyclopedia-of-compatible-parts/?do=findComment&comment=231694

Bridgestone says "The "GT Spec" is for heavy weight vehicles" and "can be installed not only on large tourer vehicles but also on medium vehicles around 250kg". Do you think that the T32 GT spec is better than the standard T32? It does sound hi-zoot, but I ask as the V11 dry weight is around 220kg. I'm looking to replace the Battlax BT023s on my bike.

I use Power Punch EP1. I bought a bottle from Moto International while they were still open. It will outlast me, even with @cash1000 using it too. You can buy it here: https://www.powerpunchinc.com/Gear_Oil_p/ep1-each.htm I imagine that it is specified due to lower speed than the gearbox, but higher loads and sliding tooth contact. Docc's use of Redline Shockproof probably makes moly unnecessary.