MartyNZ

Mistral and Termignoni made aftermarket crossovers for the 1100. Picture is Termignoni

We know that it's important to have the rear wheel spacer stack-up right, or bearing life will be short. It's difficult visualize the parts that make up the stack-up, so I marked up manual pages in the attachment to show the parts involved in clamping the inner races of each bearing. Sizes are included. The sizes are my measurements, so if you have any comments, then I can edit the pages. V11 Rear Wheel Spacers v1.pdf

Yeh, sorry Docc. I meant isopropyl alcohol, or any mild solvent. Using your IPA would be wasted.

My old sensor leaked just enough to bother me. It appeared to be through the sensor, not around the o-ring. I washed it in IPA, & heated it over 100°C with a heat gun a few times. While it was hot I brushed epoxy resin all over the sensor and blew the excess off with the heat gun & a rag. As it cooled, some resin wicked into crevices in the sensor. It seemed to work. As for putting any gasket goo on an o-ring, I believe that's a bad idea. One or other is fine, but if the sealant doesn't stick to the o-ring, then you have added another leak path, and inhibited the O-ring's ability to keep sealing with thermal movement.

64.2 ish mm front collar on my long frame 2003.

ID 65.8mm on 2003 model rear collar

I have a spare rear one you can have if you want it. I made one out of aluminum alloy for the bevel box on my bike.

The wiring looms under the airbox don't have much room, so check before you finalize tidying. My bike toolkit has a 14mm hex about 25mm long that fits in both f&r axles.

Here are screenshots of a page in the owner's manual (It, En, Fr, De versions) for 2002 & 2004 v11s. So yeah, it's all clear to me now

That sticker you posted says "91 RON". That equates to 87 (RON+MON)/2, which is the rating system used in USA & Canada.

In different parts of the world, octane is measured differently. In NZ the octane reported at the pump is the RON value only. In the US, octane is calculated as (RON + MON)/2. 100 octane in NZ would be somewhere around 95 octane in the US. I wonder what the Moto Guzzi V11 fuel recommendation refers to? RON or (RON + MON)/2? I tried 100 RON and as @Lucky Phil said, it made no difference, so was wasted money. However, Avgas is different. When I was a young apprentice, I "salvaged" a 25litre drum of 100/130 (green Avgas) from a DC3 going into maintenance and put it in my Honda CB450. It felt faster, so I tested it. It reached 1000rpm more in top gear at the bend on Harewood Road on 100/130 than the "96 Super" of the time. I previously thought that higher octane was only worthwhile with higher compression or a blower, but there it was going faster. Obviously there was some other difference than just octane rating for this fuel to give noticably more power. I had just fitted new 1st oversize pistons and rings, and XS650 cans, but otherwise the 450 was standard. I know that Avgas has less volatiles to avoid boil-off and vapor lock at altitude, and I assume higher calorific value ingredients which made such a noticeable difference.

Docc, I think he means something like "you're technically correct but meh, does it really matter?" A bit like the susceptibility of titanium to embrittlement & stress cracking when in contact with cadmium; it's true, but at normal temperatures it isn't very important.

Wow that's a good weight saving. What titanium alloy did you use?

Just a comment about using a white LED behind a green dash panel lens. I believe that you would get a brighter and more noticeable dash indication if you use a green LED instead of white. A green lens filters out all visible light except green. Only green can pass through, and the rest is absorbed. So, all the light from a green LED passes through the lens with no loss, because it is only green emission. LEDs have a very narrow light emission spectrum (except white LEDs). Your white LEDs are most likely blue or UV LEDs with a phosphor over the emitter surface which glows (sort of bluish) white. Then only some of this white light can pass through the lens, assuming that the bluish white light has some green component to its output. There are two losses in this. 1/ Blue to white conversion inside the LED, and 2/ white filtered by the dash panel lens, to leave only green. This means that a white LED will be dim compared to a green LED when viewed through a green dashboard lens. The same logic applies to red taillight LEDs (better than white LEDs), and amber indicator lights (better than white LEDs). EDIT If those white superbrights are bright enough when installed, then ignore what I wrote above.

I filed off a lot of the encapsulating resin of square LEDs to make them fit.

When I fitted LED indicator lamps, I needed an electronic flasher, since the current draw was too low to make the original flasher work. Then I found that the indicators on both sides flashed at the same time. Evidently the dash indicator light was providing a ground return through the other side lamps. I had to rewire the dash light as shown in the pics. EDIT: The final version has 18,000 mcd (millicandela) LEDs with 360Ω resistors.

A tantalizing presentation. Lots of interesting suggestions but little helpful information. What coatings are good? What is that "better oil"? The only takeaway I got was "ZDDP (zinc additive in oil) increases friction but decreases wear", which suggests that more is not better.

I have Penrite Pro Gear 75W-90 in my gearbox. No oil mist. The troublesome vent hose can split at the outlet on top of the bell housing, which lets oil vapor into the clutch area. When I bought my bike, it came with an oil drip at the witness hole at the bottom of the bell housing. Replacing the vent hose fixed the leak, but I couldn't see the cracks in the hose until I took it out. I have a part used bottle of Shockproof Heavy with about 750ml still in it, not quite enough for a gearbox. I bought it from Brake n Transmissions BNT

Is the vibration felt in the bars or foot pegs? How long since the cylinders were synchronized?

No. It sounds like a spacer is missing. Maybe the short one that drops out when you remove the back wheel. Or possibly a collapsed needle roller bearing in the RH outboard side of the bevel box. The inner race of that bearing is also one of the several spacers along the axle.

If it claims to fit the square head then it should be fine. Before you buy, have you seen Joe Kenny's stuff? https://www.ebay.com/usr/jjkpguzzi?_trksid=p2057872.m2748.l2754 https://www.ebay.com/itm/354611407158?hash=item52907ca936:g:IBgAAOSwWopjBW0A

If you have the time and skills, here's a design using 2 hall effect sensors and neutral SW inputs. https://www.electronics-lab.com/project/motorcycle-universal-gear-indicator/ Of course it can't figure out any missed shifts and false neutrals, so you may find it showing 7th gear

True, fair point. I have tried to shift up from 6th a few times on the open road, but it takes about the same time to attempt the shift as to glance down at a shift indicator, so I don't think I need it there. I have also found myself trying to select neutral by shifting up from 2nd instead of 1st, so an indicator could be handy there. The aftermarket shift indicators I've seen would look clumsy on my bike, so I'm prepared to go without.

@Scud has a photo of his speedo showing 183mph. (Sort of) https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/19038-installing-speedhut-gauges/?do=findComment&comment=221768

I just use the tacho or engine sound. Above 7000 change up. Below 3000 change down.