MartyNZ

Some people (including me) connect both nipples with a tee to a single drain line.

You should search this site for Valpolini. There's some useful comments about these hi zoot metal reinforced gaskets, especially in relation to the timing chest cover. I asked Valpolini in Italy directly for some gaskets, but they declined to send to me. Luckily the NZ dealer could supply. You should have less trouble being nextdoor to them. As for removing the alternator rotor, your biggest problem will be undoing the nut. Locking the crank using a big screwdriver in the bell housing porthole worked for me. Then a couple of pry bars can gently slide the rotor forward. Conventional wisdom says keep the rotor in the stator when off the motor to reduce loss of magnetism.

You might also consider the seal in the alternator spacer.

Sometimes the best source of computer help is to ask the neighbor's kid.

That's a great looking bike that seems to be in original condition. I think the RM has the best paint scheme of any V11. The rocker cover paint seems to fade to orange, and restoring the covers to that gorgeous red would be the only thing I would do. As for the clutch needing replacement, @cash1000 can tell you that the RMs don't have the problems of the later single plate clutch bikes.

You're right to be careful. An aluminum alloy flywheel is susceptible to fatigue cracking. Any stress raiser (like a scratch, drill mark, gouge or dent) can become the crack initiation point on highly stressed alloy. You have seen how perfectly your flywheel has been machined, with careful radiuses around holes. That is why it hasn't cracked, and we know that some have gone bang. Cast iron flywheels are virtually immune to fatigue, so can tolerate punch and stamp marks.

My first roadworthy bike was a Honda CB175 . Not enough zip, so I bought an old Honda CB450. It went OK, but had a drum front brake and a friction damper in the middle of the steering head. . It featured an under-tank ignition switch and a reserve fuel tap that we don't see on modern bikes. Then I got a CB450 with a disk brake. Better, but I always thought that Moto Guzzi was the bike to have. By the way, the pictures are not of my bikes, mine were never quite that tidy. Honda-CB450-Ad.webp

Another solution https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/19319-what-did-you-do-to-your-v11-today/?do=findComment&comment=270297

The shop manual I have says "Fit flywheel in reverse order to disassembly, using new bolts" with a note "Respect the timing marks". I hope that you were respectful to the timing marks

I think that I have the mount brackets for the Guzzi rack that Paulnaz showed. I'll go look. You can have them for the cost of postage from NZ. PM me. However, it may be easier to contact the seller, as the brackets and bolts you need are probably still on the bike that the rack came from. The seller would have found it easier to undo 4 countersunk head bolts holding the rack to the brackets, than undo the bolts that are shared with the rear peg hangars. See pics here https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/22501-luggage-rack-what-am-i-missing/?do=findComment&comment=258679 The reason I have spare mount brackets is because I made some: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/19580-lucky-phil-extender-mod/?do=findComment&comment=212948

If you are ever idling in traffic, then heat can rise quickly under the tank. The result is hot fuel, which is bad. Insulation on the tank lower surface, external pump, and filter are valuable to avoid vapor lick. You can get a snort during a hot start that can pop the throttle bodies off. Don't ask how I know this. If you always go fast, then you don't need to replace it.

I would search for "Heat Protection Film Self-adhesive Auto 1.4 mm Insulation" or similar. Aliexpress sells this: Car Heat Protection Film Fireproof Heat Insulation Mat Self-adhesive Aluminum Foil Glass Fiber High Temperature Resistant Cloth - Sound & Heat Insulation Cotton - AliExpress Or follow audiomick's advice above.

I got some aluminium foil faced self-adhesive fiberglass insulation sheet that is 1.5mm thick. It looks like it will work well, as it has some insulation against both convection heat and infra-red radiation, and if I can make a 1 piece panel, it should stay in place, and continue to do its job even if the adhesive fails.

Let me know if you need some pictures of how to mount the rack. It's not immediately obvious (at least it wasn't to me).

An interesting thought, but in my opinion, the change in clamp type is more likely to be a cost of manufacture decision, and also a styling choice. The earlier finned clamp has more surface area to lose heat, but since it is clamping the exhaust pipe to the head with an insulating ceramic filled gasket in between, almost all the heat lost by the clamp comes from the pipe. I think that the exhaust valve temp will be unchanged by the clamp type.

I have a manometer I could loan, but I'm out on Stewart Island for 2 weeks.

When I had tiny leaks on my tank, I went to replace the O-rings under the flange fittings. I noticed that the screw inserts that attach the flange to the tank had pulled out a tiny bit, creating bulges in the tank plastic. This meant that the clamping of the O-ring was reduced so allowing leaks. Running a file across the tank insert face reduced the bulging at the inserts without touching the sealing face.

I think that anything is better than dry assembly if the bike ever gets wet. Jointing compound, anti-seize, or grease, are all good.

My gearbox had small leaks and weeps because it was overfilled. Checking the level with the bike on the sidestand is bad. It must be vertical for minutes before you check that the level is in the middle of the sight glass. I can tell you that I can't do this by holding the bike up then bending down to check the level. I had leaks until I got it onto a maintenance stand.

Black oxide conversion coating is good for corrosion protection, cheaper than cadmium plating, but not as good. Still, it is good enough.

Actually we can be certain that Guzzi calculated the shear strength required correctly. If the bolt failed in shear, then we would see 2 shear planes, as the bolt is in a double shear clevis. Since the bolt usually fails under the head, or at the first thread on the shank, failure is likely caused by stress corrosion cracking or fatigue. These conditions can lead to a break at very low loads compared to simple shear. We have to stop the rust, as a rust pit is the initiation point for a crack. I believe that a new standard bolt assembled with anti-corrosion jointing compound will last a other 20 years.

Yes, identical loads on each end of the reaction rod, as a single bolt forms a "pin joint". However I think that the forward end of the rod is more exposed to road spray, which explains the number of reports of the forward bolt breaking. Assembly with an anti-corrosion jointing compound like Duralac or Mastinox will reduce rust without encouraging bolt rotation as grease would. Since stress corrosion cracking is more likely on high tensile bolts, I believe that staying with the original spec bolt is a better idea, if you want it to last another 20 years.

I wonder if that bolt failure is related to the condition of the needle bearing in the RH side of the bevel box? 🤔 Obviously stiffness in this bearing will increase fatigue loads on the reaction rod & bolt during suspension movement.

It would be interesting to know if the heat comes from internal to the relay, or just from the engine. If engine heat is the cause of your problem, then an added baffle and reflective panel may be simpler to fit than a fan. I'm not familiar with the 1100 Sport, but is it possible that a cooling air path past the relays is blocked by extra gear under the seat? Something like a pack of spare relays? Have you considered vapor lock? I fixed a similar problem on my external pump V11 by adding reflective insulation on the pump and filter.

@Chuck posted pictures of the lovely little radial 3 cyl fitted to his homebuilt here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/19319-what-did-you-do-to-your-v11-today/page/158/#elControls_272417_menu