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Everything posted by MartyNZ
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Thanks, AudioMick. What do the German speaking people think of the Stein-Dinse pump? It is a lot cheaper than the HMB pump. Moto Guzzi Oil pump ŽspezialŽ - big models - Stein-Dinse Online-Shop
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I decided that I had a loose timing chain after a timing light showed erratic movement on the flywheel as rpm increased. I tried to get video of this, but it was beyond the combined abilities of borescope, old workshop laptop, & me. The obvious fix was a new chain & tensioner. I chose the more expensive gear replacement because, um... Now I find that the oil pump is worn. The needle roller inner race is grooved, and the shaft has 1.5mm slop. As the direction of side loads on the pump shaft are opposite when changing from chain to gear, a new one is on order. A Valpolini gasket is waiting to go on after the timing chest cover is powder coated. I tried to remind myself of a lesson from my father: "If it's not broken, don't try to fix it", but I'm a slow learner.
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Joe uses a very good grade of steel, EN24T, typical for gear and heavy-duty shaft manufacture. Joe says: "Machined from EN24T. This is a Nickel Chromium Molybdenum that combines a good high tensile steel strength with shock resistance, ductility and wear resistance with a tensile strength of 850/1000 N/mm². The Gears are then further surface-hardened by a Tufftride process to give an enhanced surface wear resistance which gives the finished black surface". International Steel Specification Comparison (EN24T) BS 970:1955 EN24T BS 970:1991 817M40T German / DIN 34CrNiMo6 French AFNOR 35NCD6 American AISI / SAE 4340 German Werkstoff No. 1.6582 European Standard EN10277-5
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That works for me!
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Have you read these posts? CRABBING the spine frame - Technical Topics - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/19887-green-attitude-gratitude/?do=findComment&comment=222401
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I have a 1 tonne chain hoist and straps you can use to secure the bike steering yoke to a beam.
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Not just one member...
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I thought " kill switch" but no that doesn't affect lights on my bike. Same with the phase sensor on the camshaft, which can be intermittent before it fails. Could there be a wire loose/broken in the birds nest at the battery? Or a broken wire at the base of the ignition switch. Or a connector coming apart at the steering head.
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This guy had one for sale a couple of months ago, but the listing closed. Maybe you could contact him and ask. The price was good. https://www.ebay.com/itm/364001406540?hash=item54c02cae4c:g:URcAAOSwWKdjB-7t&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoHvRSgDK9%2FZtCXarQWbuFm9XemjrmLqhNgWPIRIrnNnrHSJiwGG5BudPuktlduxUWdvOtxb33jR31Hd3J24rxawnLeNxXqxLzaGMMIVr%2FHJIz64fPprWOmqwrkF%2BPyBEsworWRIsp%2BCPQNZR6BacfJ54Qq0xKgdMkyljuRZS0fSkakwElkvpxbKp08E%2FpgKvTPtGaLixtQ3l5DE%2Bpr81Znw%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6bHuqT0YA
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Have you checked your 30 amp fuse? https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/19672-30-amp-fuse-failure/
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My bike is ZGUKRAKRX3M114954, which I interpret as a 2003 KR. It has a long black frame, extra gearbox brace, external pump, and short chin pad tank. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/7872-lemans-vin-numbers/?do=findComment&comment=88097
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Music from Vince at Ruapuna.
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Sounds like my experience. I thought the filter material was breaking up. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/20282-fuel-injector-cleaner-yea-or-nea/?do=findComment&comment=229694
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I wonder if some 2-stroke oil would reduce corrosion in those parts? It could leave a protective film behind as fuel evaporates. I tried this on two daughter's cars when they went overseas for a year, with no ill effects
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I'd try fitting the left pivot pin from the inside, so that the pin swages the damaged outer few threads into line. After that, wind that LH pin out enough to fit the swingarm and RH pin. If you use a tap to recut the threads, you risk having a loose pin if you don't use the correct tolerance tap.
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There's no quick answer to your questions, but you should consider that pressure hose (& probably pump) designed for total immersion in fuel are different from external components. Mounting a pump inside a tank will be tricky if the tank is not designed for it. Power and fuel passthroughs across the tank floor need a fuel tight design. Also the tanks you mentioned were made for a conventional frame, not a spine frame, so fit could be a challenge.
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I think it is important to make the grounding of the regulator to the frame/engine/battery perfect.
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If someone has a cracked gearbox, a guy in UK is virtually giving away the casing. Moto Guzzi V11 Gearbox Casing, New Old Stock | eBay
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Electrical connections will degrade over time, and any 12v system is vulnerable to increased resistance from corrosion. Oxygen and Humidity cause this. Imagine how much more trouble a vintage 6v system was. I'd disconnect the ground lead to the gearbox first. Get clean shiny metal to metal faces, re-assembled with grease. Battery terminals next. A voltage drop to 4.5v means a bad battery &/or bad connections.
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Could the problem be related to Cash1000's experience? https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21632-false-neutrals/
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I suggest a quick troubleshooting test: take the fuel hose off the pressure regulator, point the hose into a tin, and turn on the ignition. You should hear the pump run for a few seconds, and you should see a few ccs of fuel run into the tin. If not, find out why not.
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I've had good results with electrical switches, after cleaning as you did, by using a generous blob of grease designed for switches. Lubriplate DS-ES is one of those that is easy to get if you live in USA. It protects switches against effects of hot/cold & wet/dry cycles. https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Grease/Multi-Purpose-Greases/DS-ES/DS-ES/