TomekSZ

wow this is like witchcraft :-) thanks

OK thanks. So I thought they should last a few kilometers. 30k km it is optimal for me.

Hello. I have a question as to how often to give service to the front suspension of the ohlins brand. I called an authorized service and they claim every 12,000 km. In the service book I have every 20,000 km. But I have a question because my colleague did on one oil and sealants 45,000 km and just started to leak. I have now 18,000 km and I am wondering. I bought him as he had done 10,000 and probably the previous owner did the review only once at 1 000 km. When I look at them, nothing happens to them and they work just fine? Do you have any suggestions? List for a saintly calm or wait quietly until something is going to happen and let go?

Ok thanks.

One question, i would like to change the relays - to be sure tha the allright. So i thinking about the: 1. Omron - but the have 4 stics only http://pl.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Electronics/G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12/?qs=0NRgW0qSE97vygR8bw91hg== 2. Panasonic - the model upgrade from mine - 5 stics http://pl.rs-online.com/web/p/przekazniki-nieblokujace/6995967/ 3. TE- This is the oryginal one that sugest parts for v11 lemanse - 5 sticks http://pl.rs-online.com/web/p/products/5352542/ Will be great if you would suggest the best in yours opinion.

Yeap. I think it may be it. It is not the 1 relay problem. The relays produced by Panasonic - which i have - are thinner then oryginal one. So when I ride on a motorcycle they can loosen or leap. It must be it i think.

Yeah - thanks, i will do it. The connection will be perfect. I will be back with more info if the problem will be solved.

Hello, The lamp is running when bike is starts engine automatically. Tach is working normaly again. I cant explain what just happend. The fuse is ok, the relays also - I changed all relays to panasonic - I recommend they are great. They work perfectly i think. The only explenation is, that the regulator is working but sometaims fails. This is the third time so i think it will be do in it again...

Ok, so... i went to the workstation of moto guzzi and lemand is charging back again. I can not explain that. One day ago he did not charge and the battery died in 1h driving. Today it is charging and for 4 k RPM it has 13.8 volts of normalization at slow speed of 12.5 and on cold engine of 11.8. I have absolutely no idea. They are now checking all contacts and connections but if it were a voltage regulator - it would just burn out and not work. And now I have no idea. Maybe I have not tightened the contacts on the battery, but I do not want to believe it.

:-( I'em not happy. You have right. The V is about 12,5 when fully charged, and when motorbike is running is about 11,8 V. I tested at 4-5k RPM, still 11,7 and running down sloowly. So you think it is generator/alternator? This is for sure this?

Hey, I have a problem with the battery brand Yuasa. Well, when fully charged discharged me while driving. I strapped him into a good charger and care for him as instructed. This is the second battery within 3 years. I bought a motorcycle from the first owner immediately had to replace the battery. But after one season, I started the engine I went to the gas station and started me crazy tachometer. After being stopped simply measure the rotation, then turn fell, and the turnover had already begun to fall and died - not fired. The battery strapped on charging - charging several hours to complete, and then keeps correctly until when I'll put it to the motorcycle. Interestingly, this was the case a second time - a time desczu and moisture. Is no idea whether the model V11 LeMans is something that can kill the battery - suck it into the empty current charge level?

Hello, the conectors under the gas tank for the clutch switch was very bad. This Was the main problem. I think it will be better now. I cleaned up... In the future i will change them for simple electric socket....

hmm ok thanks a lot once again. I think it is a litle movment in the socket but it is a 1 or 2 mm they up to back. I will clean the socket by some chemistry or something like that. I let you know if the problem came back.

Thanks a lot. My bike is V11 Lemans 2003 Rosso Corsa. I just look and it seams that the neutral gear switch/sensor was litle bit disconected. I pushed in the metal in the switch and i think it will be ok. But but but... The bike first of all wasyn't start - there was no energy/power. I checked the conection and seams to me it is ok. So i change the first and fifth relays. Bike starts normaly. What do you think? the Relays are new Panasonic? Maybe wrong relays? I dont know but it is not the first time...

I will check. strange symptoms, because I can fire on/off, but something is probably different. tip on the revs rages .. and turnover are normal so it is definitely an electrician.

Hello, I have the same problem. I change the ralays all of them to http://pl.rs-online.com/web/p/przekazniki-nieblokujace/6995967/?searchTerm=699-5967&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D6265724D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E5C647B337D5B5C732D2F255C2E2C5D5C647B332C347D2426706F3D313426736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D4245522677633D4E4F4E45267573743D3639392D3539363726 And it seams that is going wrong. it is normal for the 5 minutes, and shot of - the neutral light is blinking and the rest of the bike died... What do you think is the relays are good? or mayby are they bad and i must change them for oryginals?

yes itis ok with FTDI chip. the program is ok right now...

Yes. I have v11 lemans 2003 rosso corsa with cat on ecu and lambda on. with my knowlage t should be 15 RC ... PS: the cable is not wright i think that is something wrong. a reader and writer not worging as well. So i bought the cable obd1 to obd2 on 16 pin. But there are some two cables red and black. red is plus on the buttery and black is minus i think. May be i do it wrong? is there any procedure to connect this cable? In Reader, there were some kind off the steps, I remember used to be struggled with this for a long time. Can you hint exactly what I do. Saves the file, then have 10 seconds włączeć point, click ok and just give the ignition ... something I am doing wrong? if I have an off button pressed down I hear the fuel pump? Edit... i have a solution i think. It is not FTDI chip. I take a look and it is not sign of FTDI chip - i think it is china version false chipset.

Hello, I have a problem to connect with my guzzidiag 0.47 - i have bean instaled the drivers for the cables but my program not work well. They tell me to ignition on, so i do it, and its still no data - disconect and ignition off. So i switch of the key and still nothing. what maty be wrong? I download the map and write main with no problems. So the reader and writer its ok. Please let me know. Tomek

hello, Yes i was talking about master cylinder - sorry for my english Byt i know what was the problem. I bought the bike from gay, He not ridden it completely almost never. The motorcycle was not used for a long time. Both the gearbox - on spring and in the clutch gathered rust. The spring is now ok, now gone/broke discs in the clutch - scattered almost as the sand. I'em also cheaging the master cylinder for brembo rcs 16 clutch, and 17 for breaks. I think it will be much better for me... so thank you for your help, and i think i em on right way now

update: clutch discs broken - 12 000 km, beacuse the bike was not running for about 4 years...

heh they told me that the main isue was the oxygen in tn my system ? Do i believe? i dont think so... they dont know what was hapend that the oxygen was theare. The entire system is tight...

Ok thanks... the gear box is fine now. It turns out that it was putting together wrong. now I have another problem, unfortunately, it turned out that the clutch disengages the gear did not properly and I can not reach first gear. i.e. it is possible, but difficult. In any case, the motorcycle still keeps idling about 2k rpm. Clutch drags on and see but I bet clutch pump...

hello, I have exactly the same problem as described in this thread. Revs grows at the idle to 2k rpm and the clutch sliping and disengages. If i want the first gear i must rev to the 3k rpm and run very fast....I fear, however, that everyone in this topic are right. On the one hand clutch master cylinder is damaged, on the other hand, either the flywheel or shields are over. I'll know on Friday because then I'm picking up an authorized service center. PS: my bike is v11 lemans, 2003.

15 mm for the ratchet and 16/17 mm for the spring is ok. Most broken springs were found in KS-Series ex works because there was a bad series of ratchets with a diam. of 16 mm. Maybe some of the these ratches were sold as spares and can now also be found in KR and KT series. You can find a nice illustrated tutorial to change the spring on www.v11sport.de (even on the road and without draining oil ) Warning: Don't drive without a spring, a SPDT-Relay and pliers for circlips onboard. Gunther Ok thanks a lot. What do you mean that i shouldyn't ride with broken spring? i was running with the broken spring for over 15 km... i was have only the 1 gear saw i drove to my service station...