leroysch

...and the tire is mounted consistent with the direction of travel! Got a similar model (mine has the bead breaking gizmo at waist level) for myself last Xmas. Got to learn about concrete anchor bolts and hammer drills as a side benefit. One of the better investments I've made, IMO. Creates a back saving elevated work surface. Ease of use is partly a function of the wheel design; shallow drop centers are a pain (think F6B/Gold Wing). Just put a new front tire on the H2 yesterday and it took more time taking the body work off for an oil change than demounting/mounting the tire. I don't like the fact that the wrinkle coating flakes off the center post in use with the debris falling about the wheel bearing if so equipped. I try to remember to put a rag over the bearing. Then there's the lube. I've been using up the NoMar stuff...and started out being pretty stingy with it. I apply it generously now (to the tire/wheel) Follow the instructions for the demount bar (the thing you insert "flat" then rotate 90 degrees to capture the bead) carefully. If your pivot point in getting the bead to clear the wheel is too high up on the bar you'll bend/break it's tip. Also, sometimes its difficult to get the flat part of it's tip below the bead of the tire (in preparation for rotating it 90 degrees). If you got one of their bead locking gizmos, it helps stiffen the sidewall enough locally to get the tip underneath the bead. Ok...I've got a BMW rear staged for replacement..and keep forgetting what the mark on the new tire means...heavy or light. Gotta do some internet research....! Enjoy!

Guess you went thru...and not around...this Tennessee hamlet...

Correct...an install by a previous owner....

Thank you Gentlemen. Some chunks were also retained within the spring and remnants were also still in the "installed" location. In the meantime, I hope the wife isn't planning on an elaborate dinner anytime soon....

I expanded an existing shop space using white peg board compared with the old space which used dry wall and brown pegboard. I was pleasantly surprised by how bright the new space turned out!. Old New

Thank you Gentlemen. I'll go out to the shop in the AM to see where on the shock this thing goes....it's not jumping out at me looking at the online PL drawing

I was getting ready to flush the clutch fluid and as I finished putting the bike up on the OEM stand I found this..thing...under the bike on the ground. I don't recognize it....don't "think" it was on the ground before I moved the bike into position...and can't find anything amiss on the bike..so is this just FOD or part of the machine's life blood? (Crap...I better check the Ducati since I was working on it where the V11 is now....)

No issues getting my '04's tank off/on and aligned independent of fuel level....

Swift driver?

Had to get back into the bullet connectors under the LH side of the fuel tank. Typical symptoms (fuel pump would prime, all lights functional, no starting current draw when hitting the start button anywhere except full LH steering lock). Seems this happen every 2-3 years or so. To my eye, there's plenty of strain relief present (refuted by the steering lock symptom though), the connectors are locked to each other upon disassembly, and no other visible signs of distress. It's puzzling. Might try a Posi-Seal product next time and get rid of the bullets, Second Amendment concerns be damned..... And many thanks to this forum for the discussions on this topic!

Thanks for asking docc. Going to wait till the dust settles on all of....this. Not exactly what I was hoping for in my first year of retirement. Heck, if I do any road trips at all this year it will be using the John Hopkins per capita map along with Basecamp as route planning tools!(Love the emoji...!!!!)

The organ-piped Agusta's are a thing of beauty. While not in a living room, this ticks the same boxes for me: Although the Italians can be pesky at times....

I was studying the exploded parts view for the rear wheel (Pg. 35 of the V11 parts manual, 2003-2004 flavor) while waiting for a rear tire delivery and noticed the item 10 O-ring, PN 90706490. If I'm reading this correctly, it resides about the outboard face of the RH wheel bearing and, if present, should be visible once the wheel is off. I've never seen it. Do I have this right, or is it embedded in the Item 11 (flexible coupling disc), 12 (Ring), and 13 (Flange) assembly?

....while waiting for a tow other than to take a pic (and find some shade!). Interesting experience as all these unplanned events result in (usually). Two passing bikers stopped as well as a couple in a pickup which was a nice reaffirmation of the inherent kindness of folks, a pleasant break from our current craziness. The brother of the guy who owned the towing outfit that was called lived a 1/2 mile down the road from where I broke down. He showed up on his bike. Apparently, a fuel tanker which services a number of the gas stations in the area delivered a incombustible gas/water mixture and the owner was stacked up with vehicle recoveries for the rest of the day. Well, the guy took the time to swing by his house, load up his pickup and attached a motorcycle trailer to his flatbed recovery vehicle, and dropped off said equipment where I broke down. The three of us had everything loaded up in short order. Have to give a shout-out to AMA roadside assistance who found somebody with the right equipment. I've not been as lucky in the past....

...a "lone wolf" year at best.

It's a beauty!

Hand wax....new addition to the shop's fluids shelves.

Shop operates under VFR...

Doing fine, but there appear to be unreported symptoms with widespread community transmission. To wit....what I see in my efforts to promote social distancing..... What everyone else sees....

Station wagons....the minivans of my youth. They have a funky appeal to my eye.....

Yup, this '04 has black faced ITI's and no angle drive. The "interesting" part of all of this is the broken cable (broke up around the speedo) didn't have the bent tube feature.

Thanks gentlemen....increasing the bend (duh!) makes a lot more sense. Appreciate the idea about adding the angle drive Phil, but as Docc pointed out going back to the earlier "sketchy" configuration (and spending the $)...well...I'd go the Speedhut route and be done with it instead.

Recent decent weather allowed me to take the V11 out to check whether my recent replacement of the speedo cable brought the speedometer back to life. At startup it seemed to be idling slightly high, and a subsequent brief ride confirmed the throttle wasn't closing completely (throttle off RPM's on the order of 3K). The speedo cable's metal strain relief is contributing the cable's interference with the connecting rod. The throttle cable has plenty of slack in the "off" condition, and when high I can manually close the linkage (below the TPS) to lower the RPM's (surprised at how little movement was involved). I'm not prepared to go the Speedhut route yet, and I can only think of two solutions: 1. Remove part/all of the metal strain relief or 2. Use the old cable with new innards. Any other ideas would be welcome!

Had success reaching the fowardest most driveshaft zerk with a 1/8" 45 degree coupler. Rear wheel on.