leroysch

http://www.hitechseals.com/products/O-Rings-met.asp PN 30031 is 3mm x 30mm ID. Context of the listing leads me to believe a square section/EPDM could be available.

Thank you!

FWIW, I had an erratically running/stalling motor in a bike which I had convinced myself was thermally related. Couldn't figure it out, sat down in the shop and stared at it for a few minutes..ok, ok..a lot of minutes....and the answer was right in front of my face. I had covered some tubing with a braided shield and the sharp ends had chewed through adjacent wire insulation of conductors in the signal path which fires the spark plugs.

Wow.

Great job! If I understand correctly, you're using set screws (visible in post 159) to keep the back cover on. I like the idea of eliminating having to align those four threaded posts, but isn't the wall of the back cover pretty thin? I'm not "seeing" how the set screws are reliably captured. Am I missing something? Thx!

The solution was just to worry it out, i.e., worry about cracking the white cup getting the mechanism out. Once I got the hang of it, no problem. Thanks for the offer, but I was able to get in there and re-attach one of the two cover mounting posts which had separated as well as refasten the mechanism to the cup with two screws which had gone missing. Greased the gears, bonded the bezel (my original problem) to the speedo, took a brief test drive, and it appears to be functional!

Would someone more learned than me help confirm my suspicions? While I was able to get the plastic trip meter knob off, the brass looking male D shaped thing it engages sticks out pretty far and creates an effective diameter preventing the speedo guts to slide out of the white cup containing them. Is there another threaded interface between this brass piece and the trip odometer shaft that will allow it to be removed? Is this interface the LH thread I've read about in other threads. I tried turning it clockwise, but didn't seem to be making much progress. On the bright side, the fasteners which hold the guts stable in the white cup are missing, and I'm hearing something rattling around in the cup which are probably the fasteners on the other side of this interface. On the cynical side, I'm half expecting the whole thing to break once reinstalled and having to go GPS. Thanks! (ITT gauge)

Went to bond the bezel/glass back on my speedo and discovered all the guts in bucket move around. Welllll..that didn't seem right, and thanks to the search function, found this: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13045&hl=speedo (looks like the bike was successful in executing method one without my assistance) Thanks guys/gals! Aaargh....and the weekend weather is going to be perfect.

As I was telling LowRyter, I had made the mistake of doing an east coast road trip years ago. It wasn't till I turned inland down in Georgia that I was able to get out of the shoreline congestion, and coming back on Arkansas 7 (which I see runs thru Harrison) was the best part of the trip! Looks like a great place to get lost. Now..about those no-smoking rooms. Guess Chuck's wife didn't intimidate me enough..... ...to quit...(yet!)

I just got some paint and was thinking about opening those on purpose to paint the needles orange again. This thread might help you too: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16407&hl=%2Bveglia+%2Brepair Thanks Scud. Didn't run across that thread when I searched, but it convinced me that it's nothing more than a bonding operation. After I drain out some oil, of course....

A formula for overfilling the sump? Stay tuned..... Well Docc, you're right.....the pressure built up so much that it popped my speedo bezel and rubber gasket off the bike....ugh! Seriously, about 250 miles total of high speed running and no parked drips or telltale signs of unwanted seepage. Equally seriously, the speedo bezel..the circular thing with a number of extremely small diameter posts about its perimeter which fit into equally small holes in what I think is the outer face of the speedo did pop off as I was coming up my somewhat washed out gravel driveway. Goes right back on, but pops off easily. The tach bezel doesn't budge. Going to search the archives and see if this needs nothing more than some glue, or whether I'm missing some other mystery piece which keeps this in place.....

A formula for overfilling the sump? Stay tuned.....

Got the bike vertical, read all the threads on oil filling methodology (picked the one in which the filler cap just begins to engage the threads and filled to near the full mark), and did a loose fastener check before starting the packing process for the WG Cedar Vale, KS not-a-rally. Even got the Kermit chair back into its sack. Gonna live dangerously and not even pack the assembly instructions.......

If the threaded part of the mount was long enough, couldn't the assembly be clamped in place with a washer/bolt at the bottom of the hole. My 1125R has a similar thru hole and I vaguely remember using some 1/4-20 all-thread to mount my GPS in a similar location.

What he said!

Go Spartans!

Hope it can be repaired.

Appreciate you taking the time and photo-documenting. Thanks!

If you "...love the looks and the ride of the LeMans..." too late to eliminate emotions. Get the darn thing. The price seems decent..and you won't regret it...much.

..and rightly so! Thank you.

My, my . . . the 100k refresh . . . that is, perhaps, another matter entirely . . . So many people have asked me, "What are you going to do to the Sport at 100,000 miles? Complete tear-down? Heads? Clutch? Pistons? Drive shaft?" In all honesty? It needs the regularly scheduled 6,000 mile/ 10.000km tune up (I'm on "Step One" of the Decent Tune-Up). At 5,943 miles the plugs looked rough enough that I think 4,000 is a better interval. I found no combustion "soot" around the top of the exhaust valves/guides. The right side valves were spot-on, and left needed 0.002" adjustment (with my *new* kewl valve adjustment tool). I thought about replacing the original valve cover gaskets. But cleaned them instead. Maybe I ought to replace the original sump gasket? That is a cool tool. I had a heck of a time keeping the gaps stable while buttoning things up. Thanks for posting.

Looks great!!

+1 on corrosion and/or contact issues playing a role. Had an issue with the charging circuit on a JD 2305 tractor. Turned out the connector between the voltage regulator and main wiring harness were so gunked up, the regulator's positive DC out wires at the connector fused open on both sides.

Scud's right, one of the better investments I've made for this purpose http://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0143

Another pan dropper here. I won't mess with the manhole cover..and that's before I heard anything about O-ring growth! Good luck.