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Looks like you have the teeth lined up in the photo. Try Tomchri's suggestion. If that other spring is out of place, the cam gears will turn properly by hand but the shift lever won't be able to turn the cam gears correctly. And that spring almost always comes out of place during disassembly.

I was in a similar situation. Turned out that the cam gears on the gearbox cover assembly were off by one tooth. I could only get to first and second gear. The divot for the neutral sensor was close enough that the neutral light still worked. I originally drew lines on the cam gears to mark neutral but they might have been rubbed off during reassembly. I then noticed a dimple on each cam gear that marked 1st gear so I lined those up to fix the problem. MartyNZ has a good picture of his above, but certain versions might not have those built in dimples. Also, it's a good idea to check each of the wire springs in the cover assembly. They have very specific routings and can fall out of place. And don't forget about the two stop plates that prevent shifting beyond 1st and 6th gears. Those can fall out of place too. Once you have the cover assembly back together turn the large cam gears by hand and look carefully how everything moves from 1st through 6th gear. Do a test fitting before adding fluids and sealing everything back up. The cover should go on without force, just a little jiggling to work it into place. With the rear wheel off the ground you can turn it and shift through all the gears. The engine does not need to be running.

I had a good experience with Jet Hot if that's the route you decide on. Good customer service and quality of work, fair price and turnaround time. They even sent a handful of small coated sample pipes for me to review before making a final decision. Hopefully the photos still show up in my old post with the end results. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19301-cafe-sport-arrives-in-socal/page/3/ A few things I would note: I didn't mask anything off so I had to grind a bit off of the coating at the connecting points to get a good fit when reassembling. The coating focuses on being heat resistant not scratch resistant. You can get scratches on the finish. I have a few from the multiple times I had to remove the exaust system during maintenance. Nothing too bad, it's not like the coating is delicate. You just can't easily paint over or polish out scratches yourself. Because of the rough matte finish it's a bid harder to clean. Especially if you get oil or tar on it. Not as easy as wiping down a smooth surface. The looks have really held up. Been about 5 years now. No fading, corrosion or any discoloration at all. I've noticed no negative effects on heat retention or performance of the exhaust. Overall I am happy with the results.

I believe the problem is that the Mac version of GuzziDiag is 32bit. Catalina is the first version of OSX to cut 32bit support and only run 64bit programs. I've got an old MacBook Pro running High Sierra that I keep around to run older programs with. I've been successfully running GuzziDiag on that for a few years with no problems. However, I've never been able to get GuzziDiag to run on my newer USB-C style MacBook Pro.

All good now, and it was a fairly simple fix thanks to all of your advice. I took the neutral switch out to check its functionality. Cleaned it up and worked the plunger a bit. Everything seemed to work properly. The switch was below the oil line, but I had a bolt of the same size to plug things up and reduce the loss of that expensive new gearbox oil during my testing. This was the key tip, however: Finding the right seal washer thickness is what got the switch within the fine balancing act between recognizing neutral and turning off in the other gears. Thank goodness I didn't have to tear the gearbox apart again. And thank all of you for your advice and sage-like Guzzi wisdom. -Keith

Yep, goes into neutral when I ground the wire. Must be the switch then. Thanks for the tip, Docc. Any tricks to getting it unstuck before I start taking things apart? And is it above or below the oil level? (in regards to whether or not I have to drain the gearbox again to remove and inspect the switch.)

Well, shoot. I got everything back together and now the neutral switch isn't working. Neutral light won't come on, bike won't start unless the kickstand is up. I tried some deoxit on the connections, still no luck. Could I have messed something up on reassembly? Any easy ways to check the switch without tearing everything apart again?

Ok, I got it off. Pretty easy once I understood things. This advice from MartyNZ showed me what I was doing wrong: And this advice from Docc is how I got the cover off: I'll attach some images illustrating the rib Docc mentioned if it helps others in the future. Thanks everyone!

Great tips everyone. Thanks! I'll give it another shot and let you all know how it turns out. -Keith

I'm in the process of a little preventative maintenance by installing the improved shift spring from Chuck and Scud. The gearbox cover is giving me some trouble with coming off. I figure I'd check with you guys before I accidentally damage something. Image attached displaying my progress so far. Is there anything other than the eleven hex bolts around the perimeter holding the cover in place? I checked the schematics and that seemed to be all there was. Is it just sealant holding it in? Any tips for popping it off without damaging anything? Thanks in advance, Keith

Just wanted to send out a big thank you to all the folks on this forum and the V11 community as a whole. I finally had the time to give my Café Sport its first thorough "Decent Tune-up". I was amazed at the difference. It was running well enough before so I never thought to change anything. The instructions, parts, tools, software and advice posted on this forum were such a huge help. I'm glad I took the time to get my bike running even better than ever, and I appreciate the efforts of all who have contributed to this community over the years. A few other things I have done since my original posts: "Solved" my assumed old leak. Turns out the shop simply added too much oil. It spit the excess out and would drip down on hot summer days. I gave the undercarriage a thorough cleaning and not a drop since. Steady oil level as well. Fixed a problem with it stalling when pulling the clutch in while coming to a stop. I noticed some soot forming at the exhaust pipe joints. Obvious sign of an exhaust leak, possibly causing low back pressure. I disassembled the exhaust system, ground off the ceramic coating at the joints and reinstalled. Not only was the stalling problem solved but the whole exhaust system fits better and tucks up even more tightly than before. I did the high idle to seat latch spring swap. Now the high idle lever is actually usable! Such a good tip. Omron relays added as preventative maintenance. Figured I'd buy them while they're still available. All in all the bike is running stronger than ever. Now I just need to get my Centauro running this well. I fear that wish will be a bit more challenging. Thanks again everyone and until next time, Keith

Hey guys, sorry it has been I while since I have posted any updates on my bike. I've slowly been building up a to-do list for sorting it out that might have just recently gone beyond my abilities. Too many fun bikes in the garage have made me choose riding over wrenching during my free time. I noticed a slow oil leak that has increased a bit lately. I dismantled the exhaust system to get a closer look. It's dripping directly onto the crossover. The stock crossover that I replaced when the bike first arrived, suspiciously had burnt oil on top of it. At the time I didn't think much of it, but it might have been the reason for the previous owner trading it in. There is a fair amount of black oil but also drops of oil that seem to have a greenish tint collecting at the bottom of the transmission cage. Could just be the LED flashlight I'm using making it look green though.

I might be interested in the Centauro, but at $6500 not $7500. My problem is also lack of garage space, but if the price is right I could always hide it behind my couch. Post it here when he's ready to sell. I'm sure it will drum up some interest.

OEM headers and crossover. I took these off of my Cafe Sport when I installed a new exhaust system. The bike only had about 3,500 miles on it when removed last year. They are in solid shape and did not seem to have any leaks when removed. Only minor surface corrosion and some oil and road grime. Nothing a little elbow grease couldn't clean up. Price: Free - just pay for shipping. Donating to the V11 community. I only ask that the recipient actually has a need for them and will not be hoarding them away or profiting.