Jazzamoto

That's what the forums say. Although having seen the insides I can't imagine what would be cleanable. Then again, the forums also say I should be able to clean the terminals on the ignition switch which requires pressing down on three indent tabs for access to the terminals which is a little tough to do if you only have two hands - but that's another issue. At any rate, tomorrow I'll try to put the rotor in the proper place which should help me determine how the spring should be set (there are two possible configurations) and go from there. Thanks Dave! Hope things are going well In Portlandia.

By any chance would anyone have any pics of the inside of a Marelli PF3C TPS. In an attempt to clean mine I pried the back plate off and the interior bits (spring etc) all went flying! It appears to be clean and shows as being good using the Guzzidiag diagram feature. I need to get it back together but so far have failed the intelligence test. How is the spring located and how do I get the rotor (If that's what it's called) back to it's original position? Thanks! John 10 thumbs and 1 eye

Did that Roy, thanks though.

Thanks docc, as always. Thought the connectors would be exposed when I pulled the switch off. I've never been good at electrics. Can't tell you how many cable connectors I've mangled because their retention tabs didn't release for me. I can see marks on the tabs so I'm not the first guy to fiddle with this switch. Thought I'd start at the switch and if that doesn't fix the problem I'd move along to relays. I've got GEI'S but will try OMRON's. The battery is recent and the connectors are clean. Thanks for the tip on grounding and the side stand connector. I'll look at both. Cheers! John

I'm trying to fix an intermittent cutting out problem on my 2004 Cafe Sport so want to clean the ignition switch to see if that helps. I'm unclear on specifically what I'm supposed to clean. I've pulled the switch off the bottom of the lock cylinder. Are there contacts inside the switch and if so how do I open up the switch to get to them? Also, do I need to clean the lock cylinder? PS I've read through the threads on intermittent loss of power and cutting out at very small throttle Thanks guys! Jazz

I'll be there as well camping at the fairgrounds. Look for a silver Toyota Tacoma with shell and a white vintage '89 Vanagon. Hope we can meet up! John

Here's the MRA Sport X creen (Twisted Throttle part # MRA.VCA.S.1) installed on my 2004 Cafe Sport. The kit includes hardware for both clamp-on and screw-on installation. I've got it clamped on for now and it seems fine. The screen and fairing vibrate a bit I'm not sure that it can be attributed to the clamps. Given its small size I wasn't expecting much of an impact on air flow but I'm happy to report that it has a very significant effect at highway speeds, which is what I was hoping for. I can give this screen a two thumbs up. At some point, when I get up the courage, I'll replace the clamps with the drill-on attachment. Thanks JBBenson and nwrider! Cheers, John

Tom, ECS gave me a full credit when I returned the cable. No hassles. Jazz

Thanks nwrider, I actually just ordered the Sport x-screen yesterday. Looked like the best solution size wise. It comes with the hardware for both clamp-on and screw-on. Cheers! John

Thanks JB. Yes, I should have said spoiler. The Palmer mount is interesting but the Cafe wind screen is built into the fairing and not a separate unit. I'll check out the touring x-screen though. Thanks for the tip! John

I'm thinking of adding an MRA wind screen to my Cafe Sport but having gone through their web site I'm unsure which screen would work for my Cafe Sport. I'd prefer the clamp-on version rather then screw-on (just don't want to drill holes through that screen!). So for those of you with similar small fairings, Cafe Sport, Scura, Cafe, etc. who are using an MRA fairing, which model number are you using? Thanks! John

Richer. But, as Meinolf points out in post #272, primarily at the most closed throttle angles (idle and just off), and insignificant at WOT. The "richer" part I feel I'm a Qualified Simpleton to reply, but the rest is truly and actually the Rocket Science we've heard so much about . . . Docc, I was being a little "tongue in cheek" there and hope I didn't offend anyone. After reading Meinolf's interesting posts it suddenly occurred to me that maybe I'd done it backwards! This happens at my age..as in "I know I came down to the garage for something, but what the hell was it?" Anyway, although it's only a minimal tweak, getting the CO trim in line has helped my bike quite a bit. My plugs look normal and today I got 36 MPG on an aggressive (for me) ride up to Middletown and back. There's definitely a new map in my future though.

OK, so for us simpletons, if I raise the CO from zero to +10, am I making it richer or leaner? Thought I'd ask.

Dave, just checked my bike. I set the CO trim to zero last week. Did a long ride to West Marin and checked it again. Still at zero. On my first 92 mile leg I got 35.5 MPG which is good considering all the 2nd and 3rd gear sections. Prior to resetting the CO I'd be lucky to get 29 - 30 MPG on the freeway. Haven't pulled the plugs yet. They were pretty black and sooty prior to the CO trim change. Hope you're recovering ! John

Sorry to hear it, Dave. Hope the shoulder is OK. Everything else is just paint and metal. Don't feel bad. At least you didn't do what I did a few years ago right in front of all the bikers in Point Reyes Station. Took off from the curb, hung a left and fell down. Even worse, there was a cyclist sitting there in the street and he reached out and caught me before I was all the way down! Humility is a great teacher. I've got a set of Wild Hair Accessories 1" lower pegs which I took off my bike to put the MotraTech stuff on. They're also adjustable fore and aft and fit in the stock brackets. Yours if you want them. Let me know. John

Dave, now you've got me wondering. I set mine at zero using a Windows 10 laptop but never actually went back to the full Guzzidaig window to see if it stuck. Don't remember seeing a "save" button either. I'll take a look over the weekend and let you know. Cheers, John PS Had a discount coupon so I picked that HF wheel chock you mentioned when you were here. Works good and fits both bikes. Thanks!

Nevermind!!

Dave, you set it to -38?? John

I'm with you Chuck. For my memorial service (not anytime soon, I hope) I've specified Monk solo piano "Nice work if you can get it"! I get Monk ear worms almost every day. Wonderful disease! John

He's probably not far off. Same vintage as the V11 Sport. Mostly the same specs. Seat cowl, fairing, shaft drive... That yellow is tasty. Had a black one for a year or so and it was a let down. Pretty bike. Good handling but riding position didn't work for me even with bar risers and the engine, frankly, was "meh". I should also mention having to rip all that plastic body work off any time I wanted to do anything drove me bananas.

Changing the TPS fasteners to standard hex drives simplifies the process (4mm/0.7 thread pitch x 17mm long) Dave, my local OSH had 4mm/0.7 thread pitch x 15mm long in stock and they work fine. This way you can use an allen wrench which makes it a lot easier. You'll be surprised how sensitive the adjustment is. You can just barely nudge the TPS and it will move 3-4 MV either way. And yes, I got the Casper's cable. This is an adjustment you'll have to making for the life of the bike.

Docc, Guzzidiag had read it as 50 using the Windows version and the Mac version read it as, +50, +113 and -200 something. I reset it to zero. Took an 80 mile ride today, mostly canyons and some freeway and the bike runs very nicely with just slight surging at 3500 RPM. BTW, my valves are set at 4 and 6 thou rather than 6 and 8. Next service I'll open them up. John PS, I'll get used to Windows 10 I guess. It'll be a long process of deleting all those "helpful tools" that are built in. Already downloaded Firefox and thinking about Classic Shell as well.

SUCCESS AT LAST!! All it took was a new computer. I gave up on the old Mac Book and was able to find an almost new Windows 10 laptop. I loaded GuzzDiag and the Reader and Writer and connected up this morning. Took a few attempts, GuzzDiag is fickle. I brought the engine up to +60 degrees and tried the CO trim but again got the "Active Diagnostics not functioning, etc.". MartyNZ had sent me the stock map for his Rosso Mandello and also the Titatnium map so I gave up on the map that I had (whatever it was) and wrote the Rosso Mandello map in to the ECU. Bingo! Instead of all zeros in the ECU info box I now had actual numbers, which was encouraging. I also saw a CO trim reading of 50, which I'd seen before. Again I warmed it up but this time I was able to open the CO trim function and set it at zero. Interestingly there wasn't any effect on the idle other than it might be slightly lower. Took a quick spin through the 'hood and it runs really well. Throttle butterfly balance and resetting the TPS sure helps. Tomorrow I'll get out for a longer ride and burn through that good sized scoop of Techron I dumped in the tank. One of these days I'll try that Titanium map. Big time thanks to Docc, MartyNZ, Swooshdave, Meinolf and all the other members who pitched in and tried to keep me sane! Yours truly, John (I even remembered what side the shifter's on!) PS I have a new enemy though. He's called Windows 10. What a POS!

Thanks Dave!

Docc, I'm getting the engine temp well over 60c before I try the CO trim. On a few occasions it briefly flashed the trim reading but then I get the error message and the trim function shuts down. First reading was +113 ! Then on another attempt I got a -200 something, but this flashed so quickly I can't be certain. I tend to believe the +113 reading since I'm getting 30 MPG at best and you can see what my new plugs look like at 1300 miles in the pic below. I'm picking up a Windows 10 laptop tomorrow night and I'll download the Windows version of Guzzidiag and the reader and writer and try it all again on Friday. Keeping all my thumbs crossed!