HRC_V4

OK, here are the pics, it is like a Picasso, looks good from a distance, but is a mess up close...

OK, seems to be some opinion to do a "rolling restoration." I can do that, I will snap a few pictures of it this evening and show some of the issues. I guess Nikisil lined cylinders are a good idea, what about head rebuilding? I need to clean the tank, I am hoping I don't find any holes, it does have a few dings. There is some rust on the airbox side covers. I will put the Original airbox back in, new tires, handle bars are very pitted, one mirror lost it reflection, rebuild the folks, maybe new shocks, original style bullet exhaust. Any issues with powder coating the frame? or should I just touch up the rusted areas? Re-seal the dif, engine and transmission. Electrical stuff I can handle, what about an ignition up grade?

I don't have an excuse, so I will be there, or make every effort to get there. 1971 Ambassador 750 (same age as me), very complete, it has been off the road a long time, uni pod filters fell apart when you touched them. He had the stock air box, it needs a full restoration, he said he road it to Stuggis twice, Speedo shows about 26K, but cable was broken, so no telling how many miles. I am getting relocated about 3 hours away for work for the next two years, so I am going to use this to keep myself entertained after work and on weekends. My current dilemma is do I do a 5spd conversion and front disk conversion, or do I just leave it stock? I am leaning towards stock. It will need new bars, exhaust, rubber bits, mirrors, probably and engine rebuild just for fun. I plan on powder coating the frame and rebuilding everything I can.

I got up Sunday morning and de-glazed my rotors on my V11 Sport, greased my pad pins, found my rear pads in need of replacement, ordered new ones, then went out for ride anyway. About 30 miles into it, I see an old metallic red bike in a front yard with a for sale sign, first thought was a Honda Dream, but as I got closer I see it is a Guzzi, spin around, meet the owner, chat awhile. I finish my ride, have lunch, hook up the trailer, and go collect it. I have my next project.

Perfect color Leather jacket. Too small for me, fits like a men's US 38 or 40. $200 OBO

Is the fit of the system good? Are all the mounts where they are supposed to be?

It has only been a few years since I "encouraged" him to ride something bigger than a 400cc (NSR250SP and a CB-1), so that fact he has two VFRs now (750 and 800) makes me happy! No Twingles, but he does work on his own bikes, so I think he will be fine!

I am planning on it, is it OK to invite non-Guzzi riding friends?

I am getting relocated to VA in a few months, so I think I will be in need of some good mountain roads by then, so I will do my best to make it. The upside is I will be doing more riding after I move.

During the off-season I sent off my speedo for a service, and also took the time to put the heavy gearbox oil in. Finally got her out today for a wonderful ride. I surprised me how much difference the heavy oil made for shifting. Speedo still bounces a little, but I can easily tell how fast I am going. I am glad motorcycle season is back!

I am now down to one washer, and I can spin the cable from the bottom of the gear drive. Rain comes today and things get cooler, but hopefully I can get a ride in this weekend and test it out.

OK, mine has 4... Old one has none. I took the gear drive off, it seemed ok, went ahead and cleaned and greased it. Put it back on, went for a ride, speedo went from jumping prior to vibrating to nothing after a couple of miles. Got home took it all apart and this is what I found; With the cable tight to the speedo, I could not turn the cable from the gear end, take the cable lose from speedo and the cable spins easily. Looked at the washers, took two out, now with the cable tight to the speedo I can spin the cable and see the speedo bounce. Put the gear on the end of the cable (not connected to the trans) and I can not spin the cable/gear, but it spins fine and seems tight when not connected to the cable. I guess I need to leave the gear connected to the cable, take loose from the speedo and see if it spins. All I can think is that I did not have the speedo end tight when I put the new cable on, the threads look a little rough, so maybe I get it crossed up and that let it work. I have the fairing off so I can make sure it is threaded correct. I ordered a new gear drive and I will take the other washer out and see what I find when I hook it all back up.

Quick question, how many washers on the Speedo side of the Speedo cable?

Yes, white face Veglia, do I need to pull it off the transmission to test the rotation?

I guess that must be the issue, bad contact with the key first on until it gets started and running, then it was fine until it cooled off again. Strange... Oh well, I will ride it again today, try to start it this morning with no fast idle and see how she does, I used a little yesterday morning, none after work. It could be just perception, but I think she is running a little smother too! This winter I will pull the Speedo out and send it off, it started jumping a few months ago, I put a new cable on it and it jumps less now, but I would like to get that fixed during the off season. Thanks all!!!

Someone is going to have to explain to me how relays can cause hard starting, started good this morning, started great this afternoon. Who knew, besides you all.

OK, key off I have 12.7 volts with charger unplugged for 48 hours. Air and Engine temp the same 21 C. I went ahead and put all new relays in. She fired up much better, still not perfect, but better than it was. With engine warming up, per Guzzidag, I have 13.3-13.5 volts at idle ~1,100 rpms. around 2.5k rpms I max out voltage at 13.94. I think the lower than 14 volts is due to the new style regulator. Max voltage does not bother me, voltage at idle is a nice surprise. I will ride her to work in the morning and see how she does.

OK, let me dig into this again this weekend. I cleaned all the grounds (added one from the front timing cover to the batter connection at the back) when I put in the new regulator. I will measure with Guzzidiag and my volt meter. I bought the good ones, I have them under the seat for spares, but so far no issues other than cold start, so I left it alone. I can pop them in real quick.

I have the new style relays, but only one is installed, I guess I could install the others. Charging system is good. I installed a mosfet regulator, at idle I am in the high 12 volt range, above 2k rpms, I am 13.5+, but I only max out about 13.8 or 13.9, not matter the rpm. Battery is always close to full charge when done riding, so I think I am good. Other than cold starts, the bike runs great, hot starts are very quick. I will try a start then pull the plugs and see if they are wet. With only 5k miles after 15 years, a leaking injector is possible. Shady Valley is fun, needs another repave on the Bristol side. I get there and out early, avoid the crowds, 100 miles round trip if I just go to the store. I think the bike traffic has dropped recently, or it could be that I am not going as much.

I can supply after ride beer, Ridgewood BBQ, and even a motorcycle to ride if you don't want that far of a ride... Maybe a bed too if my dog likes you...

On the second TPS adjustment, I discounted the throttle rod, backed the stop out and loosened the fast idle screw. I set it to 153, I opened and closed it several times, some slowly, other times I let it snap back, each time it stayed in spec although it moved the reading a little each time. Mine is a 2001, someone already replaced the fuel cut off with a manual one. I will plug Guzzidiag back in and make sure everything is getting picked up.

I keep it on a tender, so voltage is good, plus, just put a new regulator in it a month or two ago. It actually started doing this after the first tune up (my mistake was not disconnecting the fast idle the first time, and I did not have the cables for the Guzzidiag), although on the first morning in the high 40's (f) it fired first time, right up. I lived with it while on the Arkansas trip, but it would start after about 6-8 revolutions, now with the most recent tune up and the CO Trim adjustment, it has gotten worse. Warm starts are great, but cold, or even after 3 or 4 hours, it is tough. I have dial gauge vacuum meters I have used to balance them. Chuck, I look at this as half the fun, I love working on them. Although I did take the RC30 to Shady Valley over the weekend, 100 miles of great Autumn weather and great roads on a motorcycle I was not designed to ride...

Scud, Agreed, should be the same. I have used a little input from fast idle and a lot of input from fast idle, either way I get no attempt to start. With no throttle input, she chokes and coughs a little, a sight crack of the throttle and she picks up just enough to start. Tom, not with the engine kill switch, but with the key I have tried that too, turn it on, listen and wait, turn it off then back on, listen and wait. Did not seem to make a difference. Two thoughts I have had, maybe play with the air bypass screws, a 1/4 in then a 1/4 out to see if that makes a difference, I have them at the 1 turn out right now. Roy, not sure if this would be the slight lean fix if I went in a 1/4 turn. Other thought I have is I have a slow leak on one of the injectors, if she sits long enough she dumps fuel that is fouling a plug on start, enough attempts to start, or starting on 1 cylinder and she cleans it out. I guess I could do a few attempts and pull a plug and see if it is wet.

I am probably 15-20 revolutions to get it started, 3 to 4 attempts at 5 each. If I use the fast idle, It sounds like I loose spark, no attempt to start at all. Idle is set by tach about 1,100 rpms, Guzzidiag says my tach reads low, so maybe about 1,200 rpm, I can double check that. I will keep trying to crack the throttle a little to get it started, after it starts I can use the fast idle to pick rpms up until she is a little warmer. When warm, she starts on 2nd or 3rd revolution.

OK, I have done the whole tune-up again, plus I replaced the crank/cam sensor (slightly melted) and she is running a whole lot better, also put another turn in the pre-load, might be good with full bags, but a bit much for commuting. But my issue now is she is hard to get started cold. She acts like she wants to start after a few revolutions, but any use of the high idle makes her less likely to start. I end up having to crack the throttle manually to get her to fire and run, even then I might have to do it a couple of times to get her to stay running. Once running she is fine. Any thoughts one this?