HRC_V4

OK, finally got the cables and time to play with it, CO Trim was set at 30, positive, I turned it back to 0, seems to be a little better, got dark so I did not ride too much, I will give it another ride later this week. Arkansas was good, love the Guzzi suspension, the running issues was a little annoying, but did not hamper my fun. A link to one ride, this was a cool down ride. The time before I figured out the kick stand drags first in left handers.

Thanks all, I will go back and maybe tighten the valves a little, see if that helps. I will also pull the idle mixture screws and clean them. The rear shock may need to be looked at then, I have the luggage on there now. But until that point, I was very impressed with the suspension, we have been running some good speeds over some less than smooth roads and it has been great, I am very confident with it. I am running the oil dipstick temp gauge.

I just replaced the one connector and all is right with the fuse box. No more hot fuse. The Arkansas/Missouri Road Kill and Construction tour is going good, about 1,000 miles of good roads and an excellent variety of road kill and construction. A few more questions about my V11; I set the tps adjustment to spec. but at steady throttle I get a pop every now and then (once every 10 miles). and I am getting stumbling when it gets hot (100+ C). Under heavy load below 4k rpm, I get something that sounds like spark knock, no really way to adjust timing, I am running 91-93 octane ethanol free gas. During a "pass" yesterday, once I leveled off speeds, I got a slow wobble that the "passie" saw, speed was "high". Any thoughts?

Yes, still the South, just looking for some new roads to ride. The big fuse holder looks like the one that came with my MOSFET regulator. Did you by pass the fuse in the fuse box, or add it and make a fuse chain? By passing it would be easy, I am guessing it is right from the RR to the fuse box, to the battery? Honestly, the rest of the fuse box looks good, the failing one actually looks good and the contact and at the connector to wire crimp, but the extra crimp going through the insulation looks to be the issue, maybe a little moisture got into it. Once I cut it out I will post a picture of it.

Thanks for the invite, and I would, but that is during my big trip, I am heading out to the Ozarks with some friends for a week of riding in an area I have never ridden before. All the other wires look pretty good, I am hoping this will fix the hot fuse issue, if not I will peal away the wrap on the battery side of the same wire and see what it looks like.

I got the MOSFET in and wired up, seems to be a bit better than what I had, 12.8-12.9 at idle, I get to more volts quicker, but not as much at the higher RPMs, which is what I read about it. I was still getting a hot main fuse, took the fuse block off and turned it upside down, the wire from the fuse to the battery has corrosion where the connector is crimped to the insulation. I have some connectors ordered and will replace it when they show up, then maybe I can ride it again... Oh well, I need to get all this worked out before my big trip later this year.

OK, so just any of the two yellow wires. I think I may go with the MOSFET regulator then since it is the same wiring changes to get to it. Finally found what the other two wires are, one is for the gauge and the other is to Energize the Ducati Energia regulator. The wires seem really thin from the stator, I was expecting 10 gauge wires, not even close.

ElectroSport ESR530.

It is a 7 wire ElectroSport Regulator. It is supposed to be for this bike, but it is not plug and play. Looking at the wiring diagram, I know I use only two of the three yellow, combine the two red wires into one for the positive, I just want to confirm the other two wires are ground wires for the bike and should go to the other two wires that hook up to the wiring harness. I tested both wires resistance to the negative side of the battery, both have a little resistance and have an open line to the positive side.

I cleaned them all. I took the old regulator off, someone had direct connected the Stator wires, the other connection looks good, but I am going to redo all the connectors with weather pack connectors. On the new regulator I have 2 red wires which looks like connect together and go into a single wire to the fuse box, then I have two green wires, and I just want to confirm that it does not matter which of the other two wires they go to.

Looks like you were right, took the fuse block cover off and pulled the 30a, it was slightly melted, so I pulled all the fuses and cleaned the block the best I could and put all new fuses in. Cranked it up and all the measures were the same, but then my idle got crazy high, about 2k-2.5k rpm, I got it to back down after blipping the throttle, then back up. Even pulled on the throttle bodies and still high. Also the 30a fuse was hot again, no melt but very hot. I am going to replace the regulator and check the wiring under the tank. I am wondering if the sudden idle change and the previous black plugs are somehow related, maybe not enough voltage to the coils or something.

Yes, thanks for correcting my error, seems a finance guy would be more cognoscente of significant digits... I finally got a chance to take her for a ride and get her up to temp to adjust the TB's, and was that easy, almost as easy as the valve adjustment! They were pretty far off, so it made me more excited about getting her out, but in the process of idling and starting, the battery died... So I charged the battery, key off I get 12.7v-12.8v, key on I get 12.3v-12.4v, idling I get about the same, 12.3v-12.4v. At about 2,500 rpm I am getting 13.0v-13.1v, at 3,000 rpm I am getting 13.6v-13.7v and at 5,000rpm I am getting about 14.5v-14.7v. After I first got the bike home I noticed the flickering battery light at idle, I have not seen that since, I am wondering if the bulb blew? These numbers make me think there is not anything terribly wrong, but I might have a bad connection somewhere, or a bad ground. Main battery ground is to the back of the transmission, I need to pull it and clean it, the stator wires looked like they are crimped on, all the wires are zip tied under the tank and to the frame, and I don't see a plastic connection, but I will cut the zip ties and have a closer look. There is a ground from the Regulator to the front engine cover, so it looks like the PO kept things clean and tidy. Where is the main fuse? I was going to give it a look, I am assuming it is under the seat somewhere?

OK, something else not to worry about. Should I worry about the holes in the aribox while riding in the rain? Good thought on the locking cable, right now I keep my jacket in the side bag, but if I am ever on a trip, that will come in handy since I can lay my jacket across the tank and seat. Did my valve adjustment last night, went with the recommended .001mm intake .0015 exhaust (I think I have my decimal in the right place). Pulled the plugs and they were black. Now, I admit I was keep the rpms down a little on the ride, so that could be part of it, but it was 200 miles on Saturday and 50 miles on Sunday, I would think that would be enough to clean them some. I will get new ones. I plan on riding this evening and coming back and doing the throttle body balance, weather permitting.

Finally got her out for a good ride this weekend, my buddy who kept her for me drove up on Friday and we got up early Saturday and rode down to Hot Springs, NC for breakfast. We got few sprinkles and a few deer and one black bear along the way. My Guzzi did great, but developed an exhaust leak along the way. We got that worked out today, and put the new throttle body boots on, but noticed a loose vacuum line coming off the right side tank fuel connection, I think it is the fuel pressure regulator, but is that line supposed to hook to something? Also it looks like the PO drilled a bunch of holes in the top and tube of the airbox, any bad side effects of this? Another question, is there a good place to relocate the helmet lock? It does not seem like a good idea to rest the helmet on the muffler.

When I put the Roper plate on, I marked the new dipstick 2 cm below the plate, and I am a little below that with 4 quarts, but I did spill a little, so maybe 3.9 quarts. OK, I think this sat a while, so moisture makes sense. I won't worry about it then.

This oil came from the rear oil line while I was installing the Roper plate, looks like the coolant milkshake when a head gasket fails, but this thing is air cooled. Any thoughts? Another question, I put a full gallon of oil (4qrts) and it looks like I could add a little more, does that sound about right?

And the 3 week oil change is done, along with the Roper plate!!! It ended up not being a big deal, they have been doing road destruction work on my road for the last three weeks, and it has been HOT! I also got the rear tire replaced, I still need to do the front and a laundry list of other things, but once the front tire is done, I can at least take her for a ride.

These look great, I am glad I postponed the oil change for this.

The new O-ring showed up and fits and is on the bike. But I am going to hold off on filling it until the roper plate comes in. Still have other things to work on like putting the new boots on, valve adjustment, shifter spring, etc. Plus I ordered the stand for it, and I have a feeling it will make the roper plate install a little easier. And the new O-ring fit inside the old one...

OK, I am in on the Roper Plate. Still trying to get the o-ring back to size, it is smaller, but still falls over the cover....

I am in! Tell me how much and where to send the money. Can't get the oil changed anyway.....

I may need more info on the hose clamp on the oil filter, are you tying it to something, or will the screw mechanism on the hose clamp keep it from turning by hitting something? I will double check the tightness on the oil filter, glad someone else had the same issue with the O-ring, I could fit it in the slot all the way around, and had enough excess to make a loop big enough to put my finger through. Hopefully it will be small enough this evening to fit it back on, if not I will soak it in brake cleaner to get it to shrink more. If not I will be on a VFR this weekend and finish it up next week when the new O-ring comes in. I am looking at this as a learning experience, oil changes are a PITA on the Alfa's too, I am hoping the ease of the valve adjustment will make up for it like it does in the Alfas.

OK, the first oil change is going into a week now. I ordered the special tool for the filter cover, but did not have the tool for the filter removal/install. So I wait a few days and it comes in, try to get the old filter out, well, it is the 8 sided, not the newer 14 sided... So off comes the oil pan, I get the old one off, put the pan back on, try to fill the new filter with oil, but I got the gallon of oil and it won't pour it, so I get it about half full, put it in no problem. I go to put the cover back on and now my o-ring is about 2 sizes too big... WTF?!?!?! How did my o-ring grow over 2 days, it was fine when I spun it back on after realizing I was not completing the oil change in one day. New o-ring is ordered, but I sprayed the old one down with brake cleaner and put it in the freezer hoping that would shrink it back to size. Anyone else run into this?

Thanks! If the spring issue does not impact the 2001, then I will leave it alone, but carry a spare. I have new boots ordered, will change engine and gear oil, and rear/diff, plus brakes and clutch fluid. I'll check on the longer bolt and spacers. New tires will be coming before long, have miss-matched Dunlops, front looks good, but the rear has a big flat spot. That is mine, owned it for about 15 years. Not for sale, doubt it ever will be, but of you are ever in the area...