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Everything posted by HRC_V4
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I have the new style relays, but only one is installed, I guess I could install the others. Charging system is good. I installed a mosfet regulator, at idle I am in the high 12 volt range, above 2k rpms, I am 13.5+, but I only max out about 13.8 or 13.9, not matter the rpm. Battery is always close to full charge when done riding, so I think I am good. Other than cold starts, the bike runs great, hot starts are very quick. I will try a start then pull the plugs and see if they are wet. With only 5k miles after 15 years, a leaking injector is possible. Shady Valley is fun, needs another repave on the Bristol side. I get there and out early, avoid the crowds, 100 miles round trip if I just go to the store. I think the bike traffic has dropped recently, or it could be that I am not going as much.
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I can supply after ride beer, Ridgewood BBQ, and even a motorcycle to ride if you don't want that far of a ride... Maybe a bed too if my dog likes you...
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On the second TPS adjustment, I discounted the throttle rod, backed the stop out and loosened the fast idle screw. I set it to 153, I opened and closed it several times, some slowly, other times I let it snap back, each time it stayed in spec although it moved the reading a little each time. Mine is a 2001, someone already replaced the fuel cut off with a manual one. I will plug Guzzidiag back in and make sure everything is getting picked up.
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I keep it on a tender, so voltage is good, plus, just put a new regulator in it a month or two ago. It actually started doing this after the first tune up (my mistake was not disconnecting the fast idle the first time, and I did not have the cables for the Guzzidiag), although on the first morning in the high 40's (f) it fired first time, right up. I lived with it while on the Arkansas trip, but it would start after about 6-8 revolutions, now with the most recent tune up and the CO Trim adjustment, it has gotten worse. Warm starts are great, but cold, or even after 3 or 4 hours, it is tough. I have dial gauge vacuum meters I have used to balance them. Chuck, I look at this as half the fun, I love working on them. Although I did take the RC30 to Shady Valley over the weekend, 100 miles of great Autumn weather and great roads on a motorcycle I was not designed to ride...
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Scud, Agreed, should be the same. I have used a little input from fast idle and a lot of input from fast idle, either way I get no attempt to start. With no throttle input, she chokes and coughs a little, a sight crack of the throttle and she picks up just enough to start. Tom, not with the engine kill switch, but with the key I have tried that too, turn it on, listen and wait, turn it off then back on, listen and wait. Did not seem to make a difference. Two thoughts I have had, maybe play with the air bypass screws, a 1/4 in then a 1/4 out to see if that makes a difference, I have them at the 1 turn out right now. Roy, not sure if this would be the slight lean fix if I went in a 1/4 turn. Other thought I have is I have a slow leak on one of the injectors, if she sits long enough she dumps fuel that is fouling a plug on start, enough attempts to start, or starting on 1 cylinder and she cleans it out. I guess I could do a few attempts and pull a plug and see if it is wet.
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I am probably 15-20 revolutions to get it started, 3 to 4 attempts at 5 each. If I use the fast idle, It sounds like I loose spark, no attempt to start at all. Idle is set by tach about 1,100 rpms, Guzzidiag says my tach reads low, so maybe about 1,200 rpm, I can double check that. I will keep trying to crack the throttle a little to get it started, after it starts I can use the fast idle to pick rpms up until she is a little warmer. When warm, she starts on 2nd or 3rd revolution.
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OK, I have done the whole tune-up again, plus I replaced the crank/cam sensor (slightly melted) and she is running a whole lot better, also put another turn in the pre-load, might be good with full bags, but a bit much for commuting. But my issue now is she is hard to get started cold. She acts like she wants to start after a few revolutions, but any use of the high idle makes her less likely to start. I end up having to crack the throttle manually to get her to fire and run, even then I might have to do it a couple of times to get her to stay running. Once running she is fine. Any thoughts one this?
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OK, finally got the cables and time to play with it, CO Trim was set at 30, positive, I turned it back to 0, seems to be a little better, got dark so I did not ride too much, I will give it another ride later this week. Arkansas was good, love the Guzzi suspension, the running issues was a little annoying, but did not hamper my fun. A link to one ride, this was a cool down ride. The time before I figured out the kick stand drags first in left handers.
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Thanks all, I will go back and maybe tighten the valves a little, see if that helps. I will also pull the idle mixture screws and clean them. The rear shock may need to be looked at then, I have the luggage on there now. But until that point, I was very impressed with the suspension, we have been running some good speeds over some less than smooth roads and it has been great, I am very confident with it. I am running the oil dipstick temp gauge.
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I just replaced the one connector and all is right with the fuse box. No more hot fuse. The Arkansas/Missouri Road Kill and Construction tour is going good, about 1,000 miles of good roads and an excellent variety of road kill and construction. A few more questions about my V11; I set the tps adjustment to spec. but at steady throttle I get a pop every now and then (once every 10 miles). and I am getting stumbling when it gets hot (100+ C). Under heavy load below 4k rpm, I get something that sounds like spark knock, no really way to adjust timing, I am running 91-93 octane ethanol free gas. During a "pass" yesterday, once I leveled off speeds, I got a slow wobble that the "passie" saw, speed was "high". Any thoughts?
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Yes, still the South, just looking for some new roads to ride. The big fuse holder looks like the one that came with my MOSFET regulator. Did you by pass the fuse in the fuse box, or add it and make a fuse chain? By passing it would be easy, I am guessing it is right from the RR to the fuse box, to the battery? Honestly, the rest of the fuse box looks good, the failing one actually looks good and the contact and at the connector to wire crimp, but the extra crimp going through the insulation looks to be the issue, maybe a little moisture got into it. Once I cut it out I will post a picture of it.
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Thanks for the invite, and I would, but that is during my big trip, I am heading out to the Ozarks with some friends for a week of riding in an area I have never ridden before. All the other wires look pretty good, I am hoping this will fix the hot fuse issue, if not I will peal away the wrap on the battery side of the same wire and see what it looks like.
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I got the MOSFET in and wired up, seems to be a bit better than what I had, 12.8-12.9 at idle, I get to more volts quicker, but not as much at the higher RPMs, which is what I read about it. I was still getting a hot main fuse, took the fuse block off and turned it upside down, the wire from the fuse to the battery has corrosion where the connector is crimped to the insulation. I have some connectors ordered and will replace it when they show up, then maybe I can ride it again... Oh well, I need to get all this worked out before my big trip later this year.
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OK, so just any of the two yellow wires. I think I may go with the MOSFET regulator then since it is the same wiring changes to get to it. Finally found what the other two wires are, one is for the gauge and the other is to Energize the Ducati Energia regulator. The wires seem really thin from the stator, I was expecting 10 gauge wires, not even close.
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ElectroSport ESR530.
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It is a 7 wire ElectroSport Regulator. It is supposed to be for this bike, but it is not plug and play. Looking at the wiring diagram, I know I use only two of the three yellow, combine the two red wires into one for the positive, I just want to confirm the other two wires are ground wires for the bike and should go to the other two wires that hook up to the wiring harness. I tested both wires resistance to the negative side of the battery, both have a little resistance and have an open line to the positive side.
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I cleaned them all. I took the old regulator off, someone had direct connected the Stator wires, the other connection looks good, but I am going to redo all the connectors with weather pack connectors. On the new regulator I have 2 red wires which looks like connect together and go into a single wire to the fuse box, then I have two green wires, and I just want to confirm that it does not matter which of the other two wires they go to.
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Looks like you were right, took the fuse block cover off and pulled the 30a, it was slightly melted, so I pulled all the fuses and cleaned the block the best I could and put all new fuses in. Cranked it up and all the measures were the same, but then my idle got crazy high, about 2k-2.5k rpm, I got it to back down after blipping the throttle, then back up. Even pulled on the throttle bodies and still high. Also the 30a fuse was hot again, no melt but very hot. I am going to replace the regulator and check the wiring under the tank. I am wondering if the sudden idle change and the previous black plugs are somehow related, maybe not enough voltage to the coils or something.
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Yes, thanks for correcting my error, seems a finance guy would be more cognoscente of significant digits... I finally got a chance to take her for a ride and get her up to temp to adjust the TB's, and was that easy, almost as easy as the valve adjustment! They were pretty far off, so it made me more excited about getting her out, but in the process of idling and starting, the battery died... So I charged the battery, key off I get 12.7v-12.8v, key on I get 12.3v-12.4v, idling I get about the same, 12.3v-12.4v. At about 2,500 rpm I am getting 13.0v-13.1v, at 3,000 rpm I am getting 13.6v-13.7v and at 5,000rpm I am getting about 14.5v-14.7v. After I first got the bike home I noticed the flickering battery light at idle, I have not seen that since, I am wondering if the bulb blew? These numbers make me think there is not anything terribly wrong, but I might have a bad connection somewhere, or a bad ground. Main battery ground is to the back of the transmission, I need to pull it and clean it, the stator wires looked like they are crimped on, all the wires are zip tied under the tank and to the frame, and I don't see a plastic connection, but I will cut the zip ties and have a closer look. There is a ground from the Regulator to the front engine cover, so it looks like the PO kept things clean and tidy. Where is the main fuse? I was going to give it a look, I am assuming it is under the seat somewhere?
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OK, something else not to worry about. Should I worry about the holes in the aribox while riding in the rain? Good thought on the locking cable, right now I keep my jacket in the side bag, but if I am ever on a trip, that will come in handy since I can lay my jacket across the tank and seat. Did my valve adjustment last night, went with the recommended .001mm intake .0015 exhaust (I think I have my decimal in the right place). Pulled the plugs and they were black. Now, I admit I was keep the rpms down a little on the ride, so that could be part of it, but it was 200 miles on Saturday and 50 miles on Sunday, I would think that would be enough to clean them some. I will get new ones. I plan on riding this evening and coming back and doing the throttle body balance, weather permitting.
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Finally got her out for a good ride this weekend, my buddy who kept her for me drove up on Friday and we got up early Saturday and rode down to Hot Springs, NC for breakfast. We got few sprinkles and a few deer and one black bear along the way. My Guzzi did great, but developed an exhaust leak along the way. We got that worked out today, and put the new throttle body boots on, but noticed a loose vacuum line coming off the right side tank fuel connection, I think it is the fuel pressure regulator, but is that line supposed to hook to something? Also it looks like the PO drilled a bunch of holes in the top and tube of the airbox, any bad side effects of this? Another question, is there a good place to relocate the helmet lock? It does not seem like a good idea to rest the helmet on the muffler.
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When I put the Roper plate on, I marked the new dipstick 2 cm below the plate, and I am a little below that with 4 quarts, but I did spill a little, so maybe 3.9 quarts. OK, I think this sat a while, so moisture makes sense. I won't worry about it then.
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This oil came from the rear oil line while I was installing the Roper plate, looks like the coolant milkshake when a head gasket fails, but this thing is air cooled. Any thoughts? Another question, I put a full gallon of oil (4qrts) and it looks like I could add a little more, does that sound about right?
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And the 3 week oil change is done, along with the Roper plate!!! It ended up not being a big deal, they have been doing road destruction work on my road for the last three weeks, and it has been HOT! I also got the rear tire replaced, I still need to do the front and a laundry list of other things, but once the front tire is done, I can at least take her for a ride.
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These look great, I am glad I postponed the oil change for this.
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