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Well said, frater LowRyter.

Same here. A ~1200 idle also has the side bonus of at least being neutral to the state of the battery charge vs draining it.

I request induction into this venerable society.

That's it. 6mm threads. Very easy to strip so tighten down the plug very lightly when you replace it.

Ouch. Hope you're not too banged up. The period of time getting used to a new bike is always dangerous, especially on a ride that has strong binders like the V11. I had a similar incident with my then new-to-me V11. I was too embarrassed to post here at the time. Left turner didn't see me and stopped directly in my path. I overcooked the brakes and the bike fell down right as I was just about stopped. Bike gained a few small scratches but no major damage. Hope you and the bike get fixed up soon.

Gave mine a tune up, just for fun. It hasn't seen much love recently since I contracted a case of Tonti-mania. The V11 barely needed any adjustment and is running really nicely. Still the most grin-inducing bike in my fleet. Definitely the best sounding.

Can you explain why this is the case? I can't explain why but I offer the suggestion from experience. I have had a couple bikes (including the beemer I mentioned above... everything was failing on that bike) whose coils would work properly when cold but act up when hot. In any case, an intermittent stalling problem that is not caused by tune sounds to me to likely be electrical in nature, whether that is a bad connection (somewhere) or a fault in the ignition system. Worth looking into at least.

It's worth doing a proper tune-up first as Scud recommends. Check all your fuses carefully--I had an intermittent stalling problem on an oilhead beemer that turned out to be a nigh invisible hairline crack in a fuse. If the tune-up fails to resolve the issue I would look into the ignition system first. If it only misbehaves when hot perhaps the coils are going.

What he said. Also, if your commute to school is indeed short you'll want to hook the old girl to a battery tender regularly.

mgcycle carries silent blocks. I've used these replace the old broken ones on my coils. I don't recall if they are the same used on the ECU, http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=276&products_id=1469

That's really kind. I hope your nephew learns to appreciate that K75s--such a fine bike.

A little Google-ing yielded this cool little video:

There's a 30 amp breaker in this series: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pbcircuitbrkr.php?clickkey=33524 Before now, I never knew I wanted a circuit breaker under my seat.

That black/green stripe 1000S is one of the most beautiful bikes ever made. Would love to have one someday.

It's a '76. The guy I bought it from (who I believe is a member on that other Guzzi forum) completely went over the bike. New cylinders, electronic ignition, revamped brakes, etc. It rides really sweet right now. The most I'll do to her is maybe repaint the tank and side panels; and if I do it will be a restoration paint job--I love the black/gold trim. I'll probably install some engine guards and luggage and just ride the damn thing. There's the obvious rider geometry difference. It is bolt upright and relaxed. This is my first bike with floorboards. I thought I'd hate them but so far they're alright. The 850T3 has some getup, but it's a more lopey, calm ride. The V11S, in comparison, is undoubtedly a sport bike. It has an angry, urgent rasp, and certainly has a load more power. The linked brakes are interesting, as well--they will take some getting used to. I'm used to favoring the front brake, but this bike needs a firm foot to stop.

Just got this old T3 to go along with my V11. It's amazing how different they are.

Looking really sharp.

So THAT'S why it's fixed. Very interesting stuff. Thanks so much for the elucidating replies.

Does it? I'm thinking of Ohm's law V=IR, so if resistance is higher shouldn't current be lower? Perhaps Ohm's law is not relevant to the situation... it has been some years since my last physics course. Thanks! At any rate I am glad to not have to buy another replacement starter.

This morning when I went to start my red-framed beauty I was greeted by a snap upon pressing the start button. The 15A fuse had blown. After replacing the fuse, I tried again and observed. Starter relay clicked, but no starter activity. After a few seconds of depressing the starter button the fuse blew again. Replace the fuse again. Remove the spade terminal from solenoid. Start. No fuse blown this time. Seemed to me that I have a starter problem. A multimeter did show 12V at the solenoid as well as a voltage drop while the start button was depressed. Not wanting to admit defeat quite yet, I removed and cleaned all connections at the starter and battery. I scrapped off oxidation on terminal ends, retightened connections, and vasolined them up. This time the bike roared to life triumphantly. Sounds like a happy story, but I'm unsure. Given my limited electrical knowledge, this doesn't make sense to me. Shouldn't a loose or high-resistance connection have caused a drop in current instead of a rise that blows the 15A fuse? Did I get lucky and the starter decide to work again (i.e., it is on borrowed time?). Am I simply misunderstanding the mechanics of the solenoid action, and a bad connection does make sense as the culprit?

Great write up, docc. My V11, out of all the bikes I've owned, is the most sensitive to a tune up. It really is night and day.

Thanks guys. I might have been jumping the gun. I cleaned the area pretty good with degreaser and went for a spin. Was dry afterward. Will keep an eye on it.

Spoke too soon, there appears to be a minor weep from the front oil lines that connect to the upper sump. I did these fittings down pretty tight, yet oil slowly seeps during a ride. How am I supposed to seal these? Edit: Maybe it's oil that was caught in the threads/before the taper that is working its way out?

I finally installed my Roper plate. The actual installation of the plate was simple. Dealing with the sidestand took the lion's share of time for me--my dremel went MIA so I had to use hand tools to enlarge the boss. No discernible leaks after a quick ride. I don't have a pressure gauge so there's no good way to tell if I screwed something up, but the oil pressure light does go out when the bike is running, and my test ride did not explode the engine.