knumbnutz

Egg slicer [emoji16] might have to Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Yeah going to hang the remote reservoir and make it a little feature. Thats next on the list to make the mount.I have to make the other exhaust flange where the pipe bolts to the motor and then all the bits are going to the anodisers. Then its wiring. I may also go for mikuni carbs yet. But dont want to spent the money. I have to see whether tuning the ecu works out Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Been working on the tail and a few bits n pieces. Been pretty time poor so not much done. At least i got the seat done now. Some footrest mounts, exhaust header flange and tail light bracket. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Is have it in a heartbeat if it was in Australia. Good luck Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

...and now a toolmaker

Excellent find !Well theres no chance of doing a perfect elliptical shape but its close as its a perfect radius and looking through the artical its a close second which is good enough for me. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Haven't been doing much on the bike, been too busy at work One thing that has been holding up progress is how to buy or make velocity stacks. There were some plastic ones that are printed but i just couldn't. I like machined parts. Which us of course why i went to the trouble of getting a lathe and mill to make bits. So ive been searching machining forums to see how to make the inside radius curve on the billet and still after a month of looking i can't find anyone who is as silly as me to want to do it. There is no off the shelf tool so i had to design and make it myself. Two parts to this. Firstly i want pod filters and secondly i want proper stacks. Anyway... heres how they turned up. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

The guy that does my pipe qork did the britten. Noel lives about 10mins away and has a shop on the gold coast called pipeworx. Lucky to have him in this neck of the woods. http://www.goldcoastmotorcycleexhausts.com.au Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Been making a seat base today

I can call the ad "desperately seeking stucchi" Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I think the general concensus is the Stucci cross over is the best. Equal top end or very close to it but large midrange improvement. Thats what I run after research a few years ago. Ciao Have to work out a place to get one. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

so two parts to wonder about, the crossover makes a huge HP difference and the airbox doesnt make that much difference. I also wonder what the coppa is like then on the dyno as it has a crossover next the heads that run under the alternator.. anyone got dyno info on one ?

Anyone seen this doc before on crossovers ? http://www.lofgrenperformance.com/mgv11ex.htm

Hey guys and gurus, Has anyone used these intakes ? https://www.shapeways.com/product/7H6NSY6WT/intake-boots-for-moto-guzzi-v11?optionId=20133416 Im thinking these or find some bells to fit or make some so they can take filters. These would do the trick if theyre decent.

Plan...haha. that would have to mean i am somewhat organized lol Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Hi walter. I have lifted the tank up at the back a bit and got rid of the air box so there seems to be plenty of room there under tge tank. Na the heat is nothing unless you're revving it in 50degC heat at traffic lights for ten minutes. Even with the slightest ventilation the air temp wont be much over ambient. In fact, all my jap sportbikes with fairings got the frames so hot i couldn't touch the frame rails yet none of my nakeds get hot at all. So i don't think this should be any issue. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Seat unit slowly getting there. I'm in the process of making some stays for the subframe plates to bolt to the footrest plates, should have that done tonight.\ At the back of the plates, i have a light that bolts on. One that all fits, i'll machine out some seat plate with some funky grooves and then anodise them. Then I guess I'll use a ducati 1098 type of seat and make some brackets to fit up. After that a seat hump over the back. I am trying to get All the electronics under the tank one some brackets against the frame. Only electrics in the subframe will be for the stop light and indicators. This will make changing back to the original subframe and seat pretty easy.

Running out of hammers.. Checking the angle of the tank so i can start making the seat subframe Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

"Mini-sledge" in photo two, but ya can't hide that *claw hammer* in photo one . . . A man's hammers tell his tale . . . until the damn Heavy-Duty Sawz-All shows up again . . . Its not the Claw... its the Craw..

From a local company Metalgear Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Mini sledge hammer... mwah hahaha Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

A bit more quality time this weekend spend with the loved ones. I love good headers

Good point, need to clean then up. The bolts aren't tightened up yet so perfect timing, thanks Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk

Hopefully it will be nice when finished. Nothing much to look at at the moment Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk I would have liked to look at the inside of the transmission. Are there any gotchas?The gearbox is very simple, no shims either. The only fiddley bit is try to get the gear clusters in and out because they all need to go in together and bits will slide off, bearing needles will fall out etc. So the way to do this is -remove the input spline where the clutch drives the input shaft, remove the selector forks and shafts, then there are three easily removable clusters held it with lock nuts on the shafts. Loosen these. Flip the gearbox over and break the seal and remove the case from the clusters and top plate where they are locked in. Then simply undo the nuts and carefully remove each cluster noting where it went. The output cluster is pressed on to the plate, so you have to press it off to get to the bearings or as I needed, get the plate out for cleaning and remove the bearings. All bearings are off the shelf, so are the lock nuts, 2 x 16mm. 2 x 20mm and 1 x 25mm. There are 4 bearings in the case, the bearing on the input knocks out easy, the rest you will need a gas torch or heatgun and a bearing puller that has a sliding weight. I used an really long 6mm bolt and some aluminium round bar stock with a hole through the middle. I removed the cylindrical roller bearings first and then slid the bolt head into gap in the bearing outer and slid the weight up. With the case hot, the bearing outers came out easily. When putting back together, level up the gearbox once all the gear clusters and forks are back in place, check for neutral on both gears and selector case. Then slide the selector case on. Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk

Hopefully it will be nice when finished. Nothing much to look at at the moment Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk