Tinus89

It could be wrong, but I can't imagine that causing such a sudden effect (and otherwise perfect running). She does not sneeze/pop or whatsoever, until she suddenly does. I don't have a CO meter/gas analyzer to check it though... Nope, I had reset it a month ago and it still is where I left it. She is decently tuned. Also, if the above are wrong, would that not cause issues all the time instead of suddenly? Also, when she starts acting up, it is a complete loss of power. When I keep the throttle open, she surges hugely, from no power to all power in seconds. Update: - Checked coils: no cracks. Measured them: 3.0 Ohm and 1.0 Ohm. Measured spark plug leads with 90deg caps on: both 5.8kOhm. I would say that should be OK. Finding 1: - Checked valves: they were too tight! Right were around (I/O) 0.10/0.18 and left (I/O) 0.06/0.10mm. Could that really be the issue? Apparently the gaskets compress more after the rebuild than I anticipated. I would guess that after re-torquing the heads it should be done, but it wasn't. Finding 2: - My intake fuel line is located quite close to the left cylinder. See also this picture: Could that be the issue? It has never played up before... I had relocated the fuel pump to above the spine already as you can see. Finding 3: - My 30 amp fuse has been rather warm... Following this: I have noticed my indicators becoming quite fast on the highway (>4.5k rpm). Could the regulator becoming faulty? How do I check it? What voltage should it do at 3k rpm and what at 5k rpm?

If you read through the spine raid report I posted yesterday, I dealt with that the whole trip. The issue was the CO trim set too lean. What is your's set at? Mine's set at 10 (and never has been different in the last two years)

Thanks for all the responses! This proves how great this forum is:). Breather is fine, it's not tank suck (I checked). Replaced the fuel filter 3000km ago. I have done the valves about 500km ago, after re-torqueing the heads (paper foot gasket). But as it is so easy, I will check again! Do you mean the connections on the pump itself? Because I checked those. If there are other connections somewhere in that line, let me know. As above, fuel filter is fresh and connections on the pump OK. Are there other? Fuel lines are as they have been for 2 years: router far away from the heads (and I have driven way hotter days ánd it happened while doing 80kmh for at least 4-5min straight, so I don't suspect heat to be the issue. I have a manual petcock and ruled out tank suck. All rubbers are in prestine condition. I had set the valves to .18 and .22 mm, but I will check again! Ignition leads are free of damage and corrosion. Are the coils one or two separate ones? Because it happens on both cilinders at the same time. I will visually check the coils for cracks and check the wire loom connection. Is it one connection or more? Which connection on the wireloom side do I use for testing the 3ohm resistance? So in short, I will do this and get back to you: - Check valve clearance - Check coils and measure resistance of coils and leads/plugs. One important note: when I said backfiring, I meant popping in the exhaust. I will edit that in my previous post. It only backfires when I stay on the trottle when it starts surging (because I can't stop there for example. But mainly it pops in the exhaust, not back into the injector housing.

So, update: I REALLY need your help guys! Here is what I did: - Livin easy test: negative. So I replaced the relays #1 and #5 with high current Omrons. - Clamped all relay connectors so the relays make proper contact. Reinstalled relays with vaseline. - Visually inspect all wiring and check all connectors - Readout errors: injection relay error. Deleted error. - Bypassed sidestand switch. - Checked/cleaned ignition switch. - Installed Go Winky light on fuel petcock line. I went for a drive, 18deg C outside. Drove for about an hour, stopped for 2 min with running engine, drove again. Then she started surging/backfiring popping in the exhaust again. Findings: - Go winky light stays lit solidly. - When I pull the clutch as soon as she surges and close throttle, she idles like nothing happened. When I open the trottle again (2-3k rpm, no load) she starts backfiring popping into the exhaust and eventually dies. - No errors now using GuzziDiag. - Wiggling the relays doesn't affect the running. ANY ideas? I'm lost... Please help!

Did the Livin' Easy -test on relay #1 on my 2001 V11 Mandello Rosso (not the Limited Edition) and.... It is not living the easy life! So I replaced the relay with a high current one.

Update: I found a supplier that has more capable relays in the country! However, for now he only has two on stock. So, aside from the relay that obviously got hot, which should I replace with a heavier one? Which suffer the worst loads?

AGM is Absorbed Glass Mat, a type of battery. Yuasa is a brand. Your's is a Yuasa AGM. Do you not have a charger? You will need to get the battery charged at some point. Right. I genuinely feel stupid . Yes I have a charger and will charge it when I leave the bike for longer then a month. Last winter, sitting idle for over a month in a cold shed (-5 to 5deg C), she started up like it was summer.

I did not find a hot wire, only a hot relay. Checked all wiring, found nothing out of the ordinary. Will jumper out the sidestand switch indeed. But could that cause extremely poor running? Would it just not start at all? What's a Go Winkie light? EDIT: Found the topic, reading it now You are looking at the right rear top gearbox mount. The one that cracks more often (but I think usually on the left). Look here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19792&page=3&hl=%2Bcase+%2Bcrack&do=findComment&comment=217546 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19814&hl=%20case%20%20crack In the above picture, the red arrow points to the area ground down. The green circle is where the oil accumulates, the orange circle is where they crack more often. I have a Rosso, but not the limited edition. Mine does not have the extra frame support, not even the bracket on the frame to bolt it to. This is not an AGM battery, but a Yuasa. Keep in mind, this voltage is after a number of starts without long running, and putting it on ignition for a while. I may have to get higher rated relays then, but could that cause the problem? After the initial failure, I moved all relays one position, which did not solve the problem.

Soooo.... I checked all wiring, special attention to the small ground from the regulator, all fine. No connections stressed or something. So, the only thing I have left is the sidestand switch I changed out. Might that be it? Battery voltage using a multimeter is 12.67v. My relays are these: http://dpguzzi.com/relay.htm Also.... I found something else SERIOUSLY worrying: oil on top of my gearbox, near the known to crack support. I am not 100% sure it is cracked, but cannot find any other source for the oil (which I have seen there before and cleaned off a number of times). Scratched the coating, this is the result:

GuzziDiag said 12.44V yesterday with ignition on. I will check today with ignition off using a multimeter.

Ok, so I did the above which are commented, the rest will be done tomorrow. I found one thing out of the ordinary with the relay boxes: one relay had clearly been hot on the contact, which leads to a thick black/red wire. It was the second from the tail of the bike for me, but you can easily swap the last two boxes around. Does anyone know (based on the wire color) what relay that is? Pic:

Ha, that was my topic! Your sound is completely different from mine Scud. It might not sound like that on the video, but it really is. The sound does not sound very good. I would not suspect a low oil pressure to be the cause.... What I would check (if valve clearance really is correct): - Pushrod ends for being loose (easy to get to) - Valve guide play (radial play on valve stems) - Valve springs for breaks - Play in rockers on shaft (are the springs in good condition?)

Don't forget Czakky's comment about the key switch. The ignition switch soldered joints to the wiring can break, but still touch, making an intermittent connection. Vibrations could make or break the connection.See:http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18953 and http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18606 Good point. Did not know there were so many owners with problems there! Added to my last post.

Thanks for the responses! Tonight I finally have time to take a look at it... My plan of attach is (open for comments!): - Check for errors using GuzziDiag - Check ignition lock wiring - Remove fuel tank - Check all wiring, special attention to main ground lead (measure resistance) and wires around regulator. - Replace tank. - Check all fuse box wiring on bottom - Check all relay box wiring on bottom. Any suggestions/additions before tonight?

Battery type/age I would have to get back to you on, I only know it's a Yuasa and the age will remain a mystery (P.O.). Running voltage wás around 14v @3000rpm, but I will check again áfter the failure. Battery terminals are clean and tight and put together again 500km ago. What ignition switch? The key switch? Or the one near the throttle? I guess I could bypass it. It was replaced just before the ride! However, would that not cause it to not idle at all? Instead of rough and spitting and burping? Which exact cable should I look for to be loose? The one on the gearbox definitely is secure. Which wire will take over if there is a bad ground? Are the coils one system or two separate ones (can both fail at once or not?)

Hey all, I need some help. After the total rebuild of my engine, I drove the Sport for about 500km, no issues. Checked valve clearance again, oil level etc. Yesterday I went on a rather spirited ride with some of my co-workers. Weather: half sunny, 21deg C. The following sequence of events happened: - After a sporty drive, stop and (by accident) kill the bike using the side stand in gear. I want to relocate the bike and try to start it again (in neutral). The starter just turns the engine through one compression cycle slowly and stops, just like with an empty battery. I leave the bike for 5 min and decide to try again, and she starts up like nothing happened. - After the second sporty drive, idling trough a city for a bit, some traffic lights, the pace pics up again (~60km/h). A roundabout without stopping, acceleration and then at around 70km/h, she just dies. Nothing. Try starting: she wants to fire up, idles roughly and then (or when I open the throttle) dies with a bang in either of the exhaust. - I wait for help (40min) and when help arrives, I start and she fires up like nothing happened. After a 10km tail, the help says goodby and I drive on (20km), until I have to wait for a traffic light (2min). Accelleration again and again at around 70km/h, she starts sputtering and dies. I decide it may be a heat issue and let her cool down (20min). - Start, rev a little, OK again. Start driving, about 10min, doing a steady 80km/h for about 2min and again: sputtering and surging. I had to keep her going because I couldn't stop, and eventually blew off the right intake boot. Brought her home on a trailer. What I did: Move all relays one position, no succes. Check tank vacuum: OK. Check ground lead to gearbox, secure. What I will do: - ECU Error readout - Visually inspect full wire harness - Check connections under fuse box and relay box What else can I do? - Can the no hot start have damaged anything or be related? - Only thing I changed since last drive and before this one, was replace the starter switch (which I damaged in my fall) and tidy up wiring. - It does not seem to be vapor lock, as she also died at speed and it was not too hot outside. Sorry for the extensive story, but I really need help where to look and want to paint a proper picture of the issue...

That sucks! The damage could have been far worse... So.... Exactly two days before you fell down, I fell down as well! Busy with the Decent Tune Up (as the bike stalled every shift after the rebuild), I wanted to heat up the bike. I was distracted and while shifting 2nd to 3rd, suddenly there was a huge truck from the right. In shock, I applied the brakes way too fiercely (they are potent hey!) and put her down around 30kmh. The aftermath (aside from a still very painful knee): Left exhaust pushed in Exhaust damage Sprark plug guard, spark plug and cable damage Indicator gone and some scratches on the windshield. All in all, it could have been far worse!

I installed my pump dry (oil film on the inside, that's it) and installed my filter (UFI) dry as well. Then, I rebuilt the entire engine, except for the valve covers and cam chain. I took out the front main bearing and filled the crankshaft and oil supply line with a lot of oil (took some time), until I was under the impression nothing was going in anymore. Then I reinstalled the front main bearing, filled the sump with oil and put my battery drill with a flat screw bit to the flat line in the oil pump. After turning anti-clockwise at around 400rpm for somewhat like 1-2mins, I had oil at the rockers! One tip: as soon as the drill slows down just a bit because of pressure-buildup, slow down! Otherwise you may have to clean the workshop and go for a shower straight after (how do I know? something with bubbles of air in the oil line and stored energy )

Interesting reads about squish band! So, I'm going to steal my topic back: she is running! But.... It seems like the rattle is still somewhat there, but less. I will need to re-adjust the valves after a short run and then probably after some 1000km again. Should I also replace the oil after a bit? She does need a full tune-up though... The idle before the little drive around the block was steady as a rock, but as soon as I went driving, the idle was too low and rough, stalling each time I came off the trottle. After the drive she was sneezing and backfireing sometimes... Also, she has developed a fuel leak at the T-junction on the back of the injector... Not sure how I should deal with that. Are there seals in the plastic parts that are kept together with circlips?

That's interesting.... The only lower gasket (cylinder bottom) I could get here in the NL was a paper one... The one that came off it was indeed laminated with steel.,,

Try the connection to your oil pressure sensor.. When that one fails (or you disconnect the wire), the light will not come on.

And it's ready to go into the bike! Question: do I need to re-torque the cilinder-head studs after a while? I now torqued them all to 42Nm as prescribed by the manual.

Update time! - Exit shaft seal replaced. Screwdriver method was peanuts, was out in under a minute. - Roper plate received and installed. Thanks mr. Roper! - Gearbox oil replaced. - Rebuild in progress! Pics below. One tip: when you have installed a Roper plate and you are going to place the circlips retaining the piston pins, cover the hole underneath the piston. It might just drop in the engine (how do I know?).

Thanks! That's the exact comment I was hoping for:)

I already have the rear seal:). I will consider the throwout bearing and speed bleeder, that seems very interesting!