Tinus89

Interesting reads about squish band! So, I'm going to steal my topic back: she is running! But.... It seems like the rattle is still somewhat there, but less. I will need to re-adjust the valves after a short run and then probably after some 1000km again. Should I also replace the oil after a bit? She does need a full tune-up though... The idle before the little drive around the block was steady as a rock, but as soon as I went driving, the idle was too low and rough, stalling each time I came off the trottle. After the drive she was sneezing and backfireing sometimes... Also, she has developed a fuel leak at the T-junction on the back of the injector... Not sure how I should deal with that. Are there seals in the plastic parts that are kept together with circlips?

That's interesting.... The only lower gasket (cylinder bottom) I could get here in the NL was a paper one... The one that came off it was indeed laminated with steel.,,

Try the connection to your oil pressure sensor.. When that one fails (or you disconnect the wire), the light will not come on.

And it's ready to go into the bike! Question: do I need to re-torque the cilinder-head studs after a while? I now torqued them all to 42Nm as prescribed by the manual.

Update time! - Exit shaft seal replaced. Screwdriver method was peanuts, was out in under a minute. - Roper plate received and installed. Thanks mr. Roper! - Gearbox oil replaced. - Rebuild in progress! Pics below. One tip: when you have installed a Roper plate and you are going to place the circlips retaining the piston pins, cover the hole underneath the piston. It might just drop in the engine (how do I know?).

Thanks! That's the exact comment I was hoping for:)

I already have the rear seal:). I will consider the throwout bearing and speed bleeder, that seems very interesting!

Thanks for your extensive response! Things to consider: 1. Done that already. 2. How do I know when a bearing should be replaced? Sound? Parts are relatively expensive here and unavailable locally, so shipping costs go per part... 3. What's a speed-bleeder?

I had read all those topics, but it is not really clear to me whether I do or do not require special tools to remove that rear cover? Did use the search engine, but mainly for "output shaft seal" or similars, not for "gearbox leak"

I had not seen that posting, thanks! Mine has done 34k km in 16yrs, so I am not surprised it leaks. Seals harden over the years as well and it is exposed to the elements. I already have the (original) replacement seal at home. I'm considering removing the rear cover altogether, which should make replacing the seal far more easy... How how is that? Anything I should pay close attention to?

Anyone?

Update on the tranny: I ended up using a metal glue from the brand Bison, which should do the trick! Seems to be very strong, see if that holds:) Another thing I discovered while the tranny was "parked": A leaking exit shaft seal... Can I replace that with the shaft in place? How hard is that, any tricks?

Correct, I had set the valve clearance to "World" settings for this beauty, which is 0.15mm and 0.20mm. Tighter settings do not take away the sound. She has done 34.000km It does not wobble about and it was shifting well. Had already tried using liquid gasket to seal it: worked for about a month, and then it was forced loose again by rotation of the pin, causing it to leak again.

In the mean time (while waiting for the crankshaft polishing etc), I decided to have a look at my gearbox leak... The leak originates from one of the two centre shafts for the shift clocks (or how do you call them). That pin just drops out, the other one is nice and stuck in the housing. I'm guessing the housing got some wear, causing the pin to be loose. But how would you solve this? Would it be possible to cut an o-ring groove in the pin? Or would that weaken it too much? Any other suggestions? Images are clickable for large.

Interestingly, my 2001 V11 Rosso Mandello doés have a check valve in the crank breather... But it's not on the parts drawing. So maybe the P.O. put it in, or maybe it was there from the factory.

Mine is 1.471mm

Hey all, After reading this topic, I had a little check of my '00 frame. My black frame does not have the mounting points for that additional support bracket, nor do I have the extra supports hugging the transmission/bell housing on the bottom... In other words: my engine/tranny is only mounted on 3 points: timing cover, upper bolt on the back and lower bolt all the way though at the bottom of the gearbox...

Thanks! That is comforting:). I did decide to change-out the rod bolts anyway.

Feeling really stupid... I could have known this! Finally found time to go and check on the bike (it's not at my house). Even though it's an '01, the headstock plate states 0007/00, so I'm presuming that indicates July '00?

Should I, living in Europe, better get it through you or straight from Mr. Roper himself?

Awesome, thanks! That's exactly the answer I was looking for! I will mark things next time BEFORE I take them apart

Anyone?

Hey all, Just a brief question regarding this topic: on a V11 engine (Fuel Injected), how do I determine which orientation the phonic wheel should have on the crankshaft? There are two options, which of course give you a 50% chance of sparking on exhaust stroke, which doesn't really make the engine tick over... I dismantled it and before I could mark it, the pin fell out. Is there a way to do this without the use of special tools?

I would have no idea where to find that... What's my headstock plate?

Thanks! It does not! But my S/N is reeeeeallly different though... Crazy Italians:P Anyway: I am getting the crank polished. Otherwise will be replaced: - Oil pump bearings - Cam sprocket - Cam shaft retainer ring (bronze, for the updated version) - Conrod bolts (better be safe than sorry) - All gaskets/o-rings touched Still working on a Roper Plate and the front main bearing still needs to be measured for replace or not.