Tinus89

Thanks for your extensive response! Things to consider: 1. Done that already. 2. How do I know when a bearing should be replaced? Sound? Parts are relatively expensive here and unavailable locally, so shipping costs go per part... 3. What's a speed-bleeder?

I had read all those topics, but it is not really clear to me whether I do or do not require special tools to remove that rear cover? Did use the search engine, but mainly for "output shaft seal" or similars, not for "gearbox leak"

I had not seen that posting, thanks! Mine has done 34k km in 16yrs, so I am not surprised it leaks. Seals harden over the years as well and it is exposed to the elements. I already have the (original) replacement seal at home. I'm considering removing the rear cover altogether, which should make replacing the seal far more easy... How how is that? Anything I should pay close attention to?

Anyone?

Update on the tranny: I ended up using a metal glue from the brand Bison, which should do the trick! Seems to be very strong, see if that holds:) Another thing I discovered while the tranny was "parked": A leaking exit shaft seal... Can I replace that with the shaft in place? How hard is that, any tricks?

Correct, I had set the valve clearance to "World" settings for this beauty, which is 0.15mm and 0.20mm. Tighter settings do not take away the sound. She has done 34.000km It does not wobble about and it was shifting well. Had already tried using liquid gasket to seal it: worked for about a month, and then it was forced loose again by rotation of the pin, causing it to leak again.

In the mean time (while waiting for the crankshaft polishing etc), I decided to have a look at my gearbox leak... The leak originates from one of the two centre shafts for the shift clocks (or how do you call them). That pin just drops out, the other one is nice and stuck in the housing. I'm guessing the housing got some wear, causing the pin to be loose. But how would you solve this? Would it be possible to cut an o-ring groove in the pin? Or would that weaken it too much? Any other suggestions? Images are clickable for large.

Interestingly, my 2001 V11 Rosso Mandello doés have a check valve in the crank breather... But it's not on the parts drawing. So maybe the P.O. put it in, or maybe it was there from the factory.

Mine is 1.471mm

Hey all, After reading this topic, I had a little check of my '00 frame. My black frame does not have the mounting points for that additional support bracket, nor do I have the extra supports hugging the transmission/bell housing on the bottom... In other words: my engine/tranny is only mounted on 3 points: timing cover, upper bolt on the back and lower bolt all the way though at the bottom of the gearbox...

Thanks! That is comforting:). I did decide to change-out the rod bolts anyway.

Feeling really stupid... I could have known this! Finally found time to go and check on the bike (it's not at my house). Even though it's an '01, the headstock plate states 0007/00, so I'm presuming that indicates July '00?

Should I, living in Europe, better get it through you or straight from Mr. Roper himself?

Awesome, thanks! That's exactly the answer I was looking for! I will mark things next time BEFORE I take them apart

Anyone?

Hey all, Just a brief question regarding this topic: on a V11 engine (Fuel Injected), how do I determine which orientation the phonic wheel should have on the crankshaft? There are two options, which of course give you a 50% chance of sparking on exhaust stroke, which doesn't really make the engine tick over... I dismantled it and before I could mark it, the pin fell out. Is there a way to do this without the use of special tools?

I would have no idea where to find that... What's my headstock plate?

Thanks! It does not! But my S/N is reeeeeallly different though... Crazy Italians:P Anyway: I am getting the crank polished. Otherwise will be replaced: - Oil pump bearings - Cam sprocket - Cam shaft retainer ring (bronze, for the updated version) - Conrod bolts (better be safe than sorry) - All gaskets/o-rings touched Still working on a Roper Plate and the front main bearing still needs to be measured for replace or not.

Thanks guys, that answers one of my two questions, but what about the other one? I am also reading something about a recall on V11 rods and bolts? I did notice the 2003-onwards have different P/N bolts and rods.

Another two questions that came to mind when browsing for parts: - Should I replace the rod bolts? They are quite expensive (35euro each), but I also don't want to loose one... - Where in Europe can I get a Roper plate?

Hey all, Sorry my discussion has been mistaken for not listening! I value your opinions really! I took the engine to a (Ducati) racing shop yesterday and took the crank out. In his opinion, it wasn't too bad, but he did advise to polish the crank (which I decided he could do) as the engine was in bits anyway. The crank is out and both main bearings really are fine. He was also not worried about the cam journal. The groove that is visible around the oil supply hole, is actually not really a groove, but a part with no wear (as the oil slot on the cam runs there). The oil pump does not have any visible wear on the inside at all, only the block itself has some grooves, but not too bad in my (and the racing guy's) opinion. Indeed it seems like all has been out once already, possibly due to an oil problem. I'm thinking about installing a Roper plate while I'm at it, if I can get one in the Netherlands.

The history of the engine is unknown to me unfortunately. For this reason, I do not thrust the shop that sold it to me anymore because of this, as they also mentioned it never had any issues (but by the way, both cilinders and the oil pump have been off? That's strange...) I did not measure the crank yet, I don't have that specific measuring equipment. But will get that done indeed. I've already decided I will replace the oil pump bearings. The shafts and gears are really fine and I thrust this pump with new bearings. That's the thing, the mains really are fine. I checked them visually (excellent condition, no grooves) and for play (none existent). The only source of something going through the engine I could find was the missing piece of chain. But how does that bypass the oil filter and get into the HP oil system? Indeed, I am a good engineer and have some experience in working on engines, but have never fully dismantled one. I simply don't have the experience to determine what is bad and what is acceptable. As I don't thrust the shop I bought it from, I am looking for other experienced engine overhaulers in the neighborhood for some advise, as I've come to realize pictures are worthless.

Oil pump radial play? radial play as measured by moving the shaft radially while holding it perpendicular to the housing or radial play by moving the end of the shaft up/down side to side etc? I would call the latter shaft wobble and if measured at the end of the shaft will be many times greater than the actual radial play in the bearing. You can measure big end clearance by the wobble method and a formular as well. Ciao In that case it is shaft wobble, but do you really think almost one mm of shaft wobble is OK? Because that causes misalignment of the oil pump sprocket as well... Well, in that sense: I have maybe not painted the FULL picture: when I replaced the chain and tensioner, I inspected the chain. One of the bushings around the chain pins was broken halfway, part of which was missing. I never found the part again, but that might have disintegrated and gone through the engine... I still have the old chain and will take a picture tonight and put it here, so you know what I am talking about. But then again: when I don't have any radial play of that bearing (or shaft wobble, as Phil describes), it can't be too bad, can it? I mean, I can get it measured to the tolerances in the shop manual, but those are for a new engine. Being out of those tolerances would indicate wear of course, but how much is acceptable? Edit: Just disassembled the complete rest. Found in good shape: - Cilinders, pistons, pens. (including piston rings, so that is not the source of the sound). Interesting remark: the cilinders had been marked (R/L) so have been taken off before... - Main bearing front (rear I could not disassemble as I don't have the special clutch tool, but I expect in the same state. No play whatsoever). - Heads/valves. In less good shape are my rod bearing scales: And also the crankshaft: (pictures look worse then in real life though) [images are clickable for large!] Interestingly, because I still had the old chain, I just had another checkup of that, in a good light, and then.... I found this: Also, my oil pump sprocket has a groove on the inside, and so does my oil pump housing on the outside... Something has been in between those... Please, what's your advise? I could really use some... I did not expect it in great shape, but in better shape than this...

Hey, Ah, so I did understand correct:). No, I did not get to that yet! The oil pump bearings might be toast, but the oil pump itself I cannot imagine. I measured oil pressure, which (half warm engine) spiked to 5bar immediately on tickover... I can't imagine the pump being toast when it still delivers 5bar... Do you really think I'm looking at a complete overhaul? Any other experienced Guzzisti that would like to respond? Not that I don't trust you Chuck, but it just surprises me with a 34k km mileage. I don't have the experience to say anything about this...

Hey, Thanks for responding! On the backlash/axial play in the camshaft: there seems to be a different opinion two pages back... Also, the manual states maximum backlash is 0,025÷0,066mm, which I'm over by about 1mm The manual does not give any tolerances for rocker support (rockers are held in place by springs anyway) and rocker arm wear... So how do I know what's acceptable? I'll probably have to go and ask a specialist, won't I? The bearings on the oil pump I'll have to replace (if you can?), that's clear. Radial play is somewhere between 0.5 and 1mm. What do you mean with rod and main bearings? Big-end bearings? If so, no, not yet.