Tinus89

Thanks guys, that answers one of my two questions, but what about the other one? I am also reading something about a recall on V11 rods and bolts? I did notice the 2003-onwards have different P/N bolts and rods.

Another two questions that came to mind when browsing for parts: - Should I replace the rod bolts? They are quite expensive (35euro each), but I also don't want to loose one... - Where in Europe can I get a Roper plate?

Hey all, Sorry my discussion has been mistaken for not listening! I value your opinions really! I took the engine to a (Ducati) racing shop yesterday and took the crank out. In his opinion, it wasn't too bad, but he did advise to polish the crank (which I decided he could do) as the engine was in bits anyway. The crank is out and both main bearings really are fine. He was also not worried about the cam journal. The groove that is visible around the oil supply hole, is actually not really a groove, but a part with no wear (as the oil slot on the cam runs there). The oil pump does not have any visible wear on the inside at all, only the block itself has some grooves, but not too bad in my (and the racing guy's) opinion. Indeed it seems like all has been out once already, possibly due to an oil problem. I'm thinking about installing a Roper plate while I'm at it, if I can get one in the Netherlands.

The history of the engine is unknown to me unfortunately. For this reason, I do not thrust the shop that sold it to me anymore because of this, as they also mentioned it never had any issues (but by the way, both cilinders and the oil pump have been off? That's strange...) I did not measure the crank yet, I don't have that specific measuring equipment. But will get that done indeed. I've already decided I will replace the oil pump bearings. The shafts and gears are really fine and I thrust this pump with new bearings. That's the thing, the mains really are fine. I checked them visually (excellent condition, no grooves) and for play (none existent). The only source of something going through the engine I could find was the missing piece of chain. But how does that bypass the oil filter and get into the HP oil system? Indeed, I am a good engineer and have some experience in working on engines, but have never fully dismantled one. I simply don't have the experience to determine what is bad and what is acceptable. As I don't thrust the shop I bought it from, I am looking for other experienced engine overhaulers in the neighborhood for some advise, as I've come to realize pictures are worthless.

Oil pump radial play? radial play as measured by moving the shaft radially while holding it perpendicular to the housing or radial play by moving the end of the shaft up/down side to side etc? I would call the latter shaft wobble and if measured at the end of the shaft will be many times greater than the actual radial play in the bearing. You can measure big end clearance by the wobble method and a formular as well. Ciao In that case it is shaft wobble, but do you really think almost one mm of shaft wobble is OK? Because that causes misalignment of the oil pump sprocket as well... Well, in that sense: I have maybe not painted the FULL picture: when I replaced the chain and tensioner, I inspected the chain. One of the bushings around the chain pins was broken halfway, part of which was missing. I never found the part again, but that might have disintegrated and gone through the engine... I still have the old chain and will take a picture tonight and put it here, so you know what I am talking about. But then again: when I don't have any radial play of that bearing (or shaft wobble, as Phil describes), it can't be too bad, can it? I mean, I can get it measured to the tolerances in the shop manual, but those are for a new engine. Being out of those tolerances would indicate wear of course, but how much is acceptable? Edit: Just disassembled the complete rest. Found in good shape: - Cilinders, pistons, pens. (including piston rings, so that is not the source of the sound). Interesting remark: the cilinders had been marked (R/L) so have been taken off before... - Main bearing front (rear I could not disassemble as I don't have the special clutch tool, but I expect in the same state. No play whatsoever). - Heads/valves. In less good shape are my rod bearing scales: And also the crankshaft: (pictures look worse then in real life though) [images are clickable for large!] Interestingly, because I still had the old chain, I just had another checkup of that, in a good light, and then.... I found this: Also, my oil pump sprocket has a groove on the inside, and so does my oil pump housing on the outside... Something has been in between those... Please, what's your advise? I could really use some... I did not expect it in great shape, but in better shape than this...

Hey, Ah, so I did understand correct:). No, I did not get to that yet! The oil pump bearings might be toast, but the oil pump itself I cannot imagine. I measured oil pressure, which (half warm engine) spiked to 5bar immediately on tickover... I can't imagine the pump being toast when it still delivers 5bar... Do you really think I'm looking at a complete overhaul? Any other experienced Guzzisti that would like to respond? Not that I don't trust you Chuck, but it just surprises me with a 34k km mileage. I don't have the experience to say anything about this...

Hey, Thanks for responding! On the backlash/axial play in the camshaft: there seems to be a different opinion two pages back... Also, the manual states maximum backlash is 0,025÷0,066mm, which I'm over by about 1mm The manual does not give any tolerances for rocker support (rockers are held in place by springs anyway) and rocker arm wear... So how do I know what's acceptable? I'll probably have to go and ask a specialist, won't I? The bearings on the oil pump I'll have to replace (if you can?), that's clear. Radial play is somewhere between 0.5 and 1mm. What do you mean with rod and main bearings? Big-end bearings? If so, no, not yet.

Hey all, Finally found some time to tinker on! Further findings: - Found some non-magnetic debris underneath the valve covers. - Quite some axial play in the camshaft. Is this allowed at all? - Quite some radial play in the oil pump bearing (and the bearing came out halfway when taking off the sprocket). No axial play. Is this allowed? - Camshaft, tappets and rods look good. Two rockers show quite some wear, see pics. - On the exhaust valve side, the rockers have worn quite deeply into the rocker support. When I run the chain on the sprockets, it "sticks" to the sprocket quite severely, is that normal? The crank and oilpump sprockets are in good nick, but I'm somewhat worried about the camshaft sprocket. What do you guys think? Images are clickable for large. I really need some opinions! Debris found. Some wear on the rocker shaft (this one is the worst). What do you think? Most badly worn rocker arm Worn-in rocker support Other worst rocker arm. Camshaft sprocket

Hey all, So, after rebuilding my kitchen and doing some other stuff in the new house (such as making a proper workshop), I decided to give some love to the V11 again. The workbench: Yes, with a V11 engine! What did I do so far? I took the gearbox off and visually inspected the special clutch: fine. I took the front cover off and inspected that for signs of chain contact: none. Chain and new Stucci tensioner are in mint condition. Spun it around a few times, runs great. But.... am I allowed ANY play in the crankshaft and camshaft? Because so far I discovered I do have some play in the crankshaft... Could that cause the noise? The intent is to keep this thread alive the coming days/weeks. I'll be working on the engine in the evenings and for sure need your help:)

I understand where you are coming from and although I'm a precise wrencher, I am not too experienced and have made mistakes in the past. I am confident this is not the case though, because: The rattle started BEFORE I did anything to the bike. It slowly developed, first only being there on a hot bike, then also when cold. It was only when it got worse that I started with valve clearances, cam chain etc. Therefore I'm confident it is not caused by something I did wrong, as I did nothing to the engine before it started to manifest...

Checked, all fine. Also no play on the rocker/shaft combination and the pushrods are also in good condition.

Which has been replaced by a dual plate clutch . It's kind of special: the V11 flywheel was unavailable , so an aftermarktet Centauro flywheel was installed with the starter gear of a Le Mans and the dual clutch plates (+intermediate plate/springs etc.) of a V11. I'm not afraid of some wrenching . The sound also clearly originates from (the top of) the engine and does not change with the clutch engaged/disengaged.

Nope, it isn't. I don't have the luxury of a dust-free workshop (on the contrary), so I have to drop the sump, check what I want to check, and re-assemble the sump. I'll have to find a day to do all these checks, but that will take a while because I'm re-constructing the house (myself) the coming weeks...

That makes sense... I'll have to find some time to wrench again (just moved house and a lot of stuff needs to be done). I'll have to diagnose and then buy, as the part here in the NL costs not $40, but 90EUR

I did, nothing to see there. They were straight as a mirror and no rub marks whatsoever. They also made a nice "pop" when pulling them out of the bottom joint. That would highly surprise me. I replaced both chain and tensioner (for the Stucci type) because of the rattle, and when running the engine again after 5-10 min: rattle. That could explain the noise, but I would expect it to be louder then... When replacing the cam chain+tensioner, I did not notice excessive play, but I also did not explicitly check it. How exactly is the cam shaft held into place? I just had a look at the parts drawings, but that remains unclear to me... What kind of wear and therefore play would that introduce? Axial or radial?

Indeed it does, but... which moving parts are made of aluminium? Also: I installed a new chain and Stucci type tensioner. Could it just be running-in material from the tensioner? I only know the gray matter is not magnetic and you can't feel any particles when you run it through your fingers or put it on a cloth.

The amount of sludge/water in the oil doesn't surprise me, it has been sitting in a cold (it goes up to +/- 10deg C nowadays here) and somewhat moist shed for more than a month. My normal riding habits are at least an hour, often 2-3hrs to a day, but only once every 2 weeks or so. Sometimes more, depends on the weater. I usually cover 100-300km per drive. What would be the benefit of the above check? I just put clean oil in there, I don't really feel like pulling the sump again just so I can verify the sludge will be gone... It's an aircooled engine, the sludge will be gone after an hours drive anyway....

Sorry for not replying, I moved house and was busy otherwise (unpacking boxes etc), did not have a chance to look at the bike . Thanks! I looked around for anything on the outside, but the sound really sounds like coming from inside the engine. Yesterday evening I dropped the sump, as any metal fur doesn't have to be magnetic. I checked the magnet and the sump oil filter, but did not find any metal. I did find a lot of sludge and some water, but the bike is parked in a cold shed and hasn't run in a month, so that doesn't surprise me. I did find GREY sludge (I'm used to it being white/yellow-ish, like mayonnaise), is that normal? Here's a picture: Anyone seen something like that? My plan is to install an oil pressure gauge (it could start to rattle due to low oil pressure). If that's OK, I'll just ignore the rattle and drive it until something breaks

Haha, maybe I was unclear as well. The rattle is at IDLE as well as at REVS. Also, the rattle is there under light load as wel (cruising around). It indeed is a sound that started a while ago and is slowly increasing in how often it is present and it is becoming louder. I'll have an extremely good look at the exhaust headers for cracks, but I'd be very surprised to find one.

How can I find out if it is?

All, Thanks for the responses! I indeed replaced the tensioner AND the chain. To me, it does not sound like the sound is created outside the engine. My oil cooler mounts are steel and good. The exhaust flanges are tight, as I took them off to replace the cam chain and tensioner. Also, the sound frequency rises with the trottle/revs, which for me links it to the engine internals... Any other thoughts?

Hey all, After lurking here for a while, let's introduce myself: Martijn, 27, from the Netherlands. I own a V11 Sport Mandello Rosso since a year. Since a number of weeks, the bike has developed a strange metallic rattle from the engine under idle and load. Sometimes only when hot, but sometimes also when cold. It has been quiet while being hot recently again as well. Done so far in order to find the issue: - Adjust valves to 0.15mm and 0.20mm. The intake valves had VERY tight clearance, the exhoust was around 0.10mm. Sound, idle and low rev pickup improved significantly, rattle remained though. - Replaced cam chain and tensioner for the Stucci type with spring. Cold idle improved again, no change. Rattle remained. - A local dealer suspected a pushrod had a separated end. Checked all those last night, all fine. No excessive wear on valve ends and rockers. The bike runs and drives great. It has done 34.000km. Fresh 20W50 from Castrol. Edit; it is not the single plate clutch, as I replaced that one last year for a dual plate version. A video of the sound can be found here: https://vimeo.com/183857762 Guys and girls, I'm hopeless. What do you suspect and should I still drive it or not? Kind regards, Martijn