Tinus89

Indeed, please support the engine on the front when you do this. It is doable by rotating the front subframe forward, BUT. I did this and snapped the inlet of the fuel pump right off. You don't really feel the resistance of the hose and it is very brittle.

I did it on a 2001 RM with (soft) chinpad. I'll upload my pics and learnings tomorrow, now time for a beer first Edit: So yeah, I bought a SW Motech daypack and Aprilia tankring (don't know which one, but it originally fits a 2001 ETV 1000 Caponord). When installed directly, the chinpad prevents the bag from locking into place (as expected). So I made spacers (9mm) to raise the tank ring straight up. The bag fit perfectly! However the fuel filler cap would not open anymore, it hit the tank ring as it was now raised. I removed the rear spacers and cut down the front ones (made from 8x1mm alu tube) to about 5-6mm of raise, essentially putting the ring on a slight angle. I then ground down the plastic on the inside a few mm in order to let the filler cap pass, as well as some of the metal ring underneath. Keep in mind the bolt holes in the filler cap are recessed 6mm, so the actual length of my 8mm OD spacer tubes is 11-12mm on the front. Some pics:

I have managed to order these at https://www.schellen-shop.de/ for my Aprilia Caponord. Do not forget these normally come with NBR o-rings, which does not do well with (modern partly-ethanol) fuels. They sell replacement Viton o-rings, suggest to order these and replace prior to installation. I'm considering these for my V11 as well on the next tank removal, as my fuel tap is sh*t as well.

Out of curiosity (I am not experiencing any netative effects from the exhaust system), do you connect up the crossover connections using a sealing paste/gun gum?

I've had these exact symptoms when hot. It seemed like coming down in rpm, she picks up just too late again and dies. Start again and she fires right up. Does your idle rpm vary a lot from warm to hot? Because mine did. After normal riding for 30min it was 1250rpm, but after a spirited ride through town (lots of stop and go, lots of accelleration) or coming off the highway to a stop, she went down to 1000rpm, which she does not like to idle at. I've solved this by mastering the Decent Tune Up as quoted by docc. Took me 3 attempts to get right, but the problem has been away for 2 years now. On the shifting: indeed, sometimes happens to me as well when I ride too "sloppy" or "lazy". Take some time for just those shifts and it will get better. Mine does it now once every 10 rides or so, which does not bother me anymore.

Here is a picture of a well-maintained, indoors-kept CaliVin tank inside....

Replaced the tank protection pad as it was letting go. Had a lot of doubts about the position of the new one, but chose behind the seat and am happy with it. Old: New: There was surprisingly little discoloration of the paint underneath the pad.

I was using GuzziDiag to set it, but it is just more of a pain when she does not want to run (and needs at least 60deg C of engine temp). Thanks, I was using the wrong XDF and could not find the CO trim value.

Update! Finished the "service + +++". Here comes the tale of sorting out a multi-owner, 66.000km CalVin. In addition to a "normal" dealer full service (as it should be at least), I did the following: - Replaced shifter+foot brake lever bushes - Replaced driveshaft+bearing as the front u-joint had a flat spot and the support bearing was loose from the shaft) - Adjusted throttle cable slack (it was about 1/5th of a handle turn! How do people drive like that?!) - Replaced fuel filter (there was rust in the tank, removed it, filter was full of brown particles as well). Replaced the in-tank hose as well. - Replaced fuel tank connector as it had partially failed - Replaced inner spark plugs (old ones were partially worn but also of wrong type) I must have forgotten some... Reset the TPS at 150mV at closed (and linkage removed) throttle body (was 028mV!). Took her for a spin. When warmed up (and 80% humidity at 26deg C outside), she still pinged at WOT in the range of 2500-5500rpm. Then I flashed Beard's map which I got through Biesel (thanks both!) and tried to get her running, but she would not idle properly. Even blew the inlet boot off once. I "Reset all auto-adjusting parameters" in Guzzidiag and raised the CO very high (80) and got her running - sort of -. I re-checked sync (a bit off), fully closed both air bleed screws, and synched again by just barely opening one air bleed. That solved the idle stumble! Lowered CO until idle started to drop off (now set at 50, still a bit high I know). Took her for a spin, same weather conditions. Still one or two pings when going through the range at WOT between 3000 and 4000rpm, but far less and way more driveable! I may proceed to carefully add some fuel to the map to solve the pinging there (did the same on my V11 and took full care of it) later on, but for now the bike is back at my (happy) dad. When I dropped her off I picked up my V11 again, DAMN I love that bike, especially after driving a CalVin for days (and working on it). Thanks for all the responses and help, especially Biesel!

The bearing went easily on the shaft (with heat/freezer and a good whack with a hammer on the inner race). Getting the assembly in the rear swingarm was a whole different ball game. Eventually, with some carefully used force, she went in.

Interesting... Even though I like analog ones and have learned the ropes with them, I have two 10eur cheap digital ones... So far (5yrs), I've never replaced one battery. One of the two is even in the shed where temps go sub-zero in winter...

@Lucky Phil, the main issue was getting the total assembly back inside the tank. The hose clamps were actually not interfering with anything, it was more the combination of pump and filter which had to be rotated through the entry hole. Everything worked out with some cursing, but I had to use some minor force (not around the wires, but around the hose), so I will have a little bit of buttclamping until she fires up...

Awesome, looking forward to the bearing and shaft install... Not. I'll properly cool the shaft and heat the bearing a bit. How did you install it, any special tools or just align and push/hammer into place? Yes, your slideshow did help. It indeed was a nightmare and only want to celebrate if she runs properly in a few day (and I did not kink a fuel hose on installation). I did have to replace the special ribbed fuel hose with a normal one, as I pulled it apart on removing the fuel filter. This made installation in the tank even more difficult. MAN, I love working on my V11 compared to this one. So much more easy & accessible....

I've purchased the new driveshaft at TLM at 275eur (faster delivery). Should be delivered tomorrow. I've already set the freezer to MAX. Also replacing the support bearing. The gearbox output shaft bearing is fine by the way, it is just the seal which is gone. Adjusted the throttle cables so they don't have 1/4 of throttle play anymore. Replaced all 4 spark plugs (inner ones were wrong type, left outer spark plug connector was unscrewed). Adjusted TPS (closed was 030mV instead of 150mV!) Replaced fuel filter (what a fucking nightmare) and internal fuel line. Sucked the rust out of the tank. Fuel filter was fairly plugged with rust as well... Broke the annoying fuel connector (female, ordered a new one).

I would estimate there was about 50-75ml of oil in the swingarm, but all of it was in the front part, front of the support bearing. I'm confident it came from the gearbox, as the area rear of the output seal was laying in a bath of oil as well. The bevel box input shaft was dry. I'll replace the seal (new one ordered, Viton) and check for the output shaft bearing tomorrow morning. Yeah, I was a bit surprised as well. Upon further inspection, the shaft-support bearing is a total loose fit. I can wiggle the bearing on the shaft and both inner race as well as shaft bearing face have scores of "slippage". Biesel had this on his shaft too, even the same UJ bearing which went bad, have a look at his videos on YT. Links on P3 of this topic. The swingarm bearings are fine after all, they are tapered and the play can be adjusted to zero. The bike has done 66.000km (as far as we know, no history). There is a lot of play in the gear/rear brake levers, I'll replace those bushings but maybe she has done more than 66.000km....

I've taken apart the rear swingarm and observed the following: - Gearbox rear seal is leaking, some gearbox oil inside the swingarm - Driveshaft came out of the swingarm way too easily. When I put it back, I could feel it has moveability inside the support bearing. I can wiggle the rear splines about 3mm sideways. - Rear u-joint has a dead spot. - Splines were properly greased it seems, however a bit hard to assess with the amount of gearbox oil... I'm probably looking at a replacement driveshaft+support bearing (and seal), am I not? Edit: also the swingarm bearings are shot, replacement from Stein-Dinse is 72eur each. Is there any alternative part?

My thoughts as well, but IF you cal already find the parts, they go over 300eur. Yesterday I browsed the parts, I found all but one at Stein-Dinse, the other one on a universal parts site. Total sum of 300eur is a lot, especially if the mod may already have been completed... So how do I find out?

So my original transmission is in the part B recall. How do I find out whether this has been performed or not? And if it hasn't, anything I can still claim at Guzzi? The kit B I can't find, the separate parts add up to 280eur.

I like how you removed the undertail licence plate holder etc, now considering it myself as well:)

Out of curiosity, how do I find out in Europe whether this recall was done on my 2001 V11?

Thanks for those links! Which are the splines Luigi forget to grease, the forward (requiring swingarm removal), rear or both?

I have known Luigi from my V11 and will check & grease the splines. Does this require the front clamp connection to be broken and then slide out towards the bevel drive? Or does this mean swingarm removal? Another question: my dad's CalVin has twinspark. Am I correct these spark plugs are different? The manual only states BPR 6ES, but Stein-Dinse states the inner one is PMR8B. Is this correct and if so, should the inner one be gapped at 0.7mm as well?

Excellent advice, thanks! I'll PM you for those maps. One question on maintenance: the rear drive shaft on this bike is the enclosed/covered type. What maintenance does it require, if any?

Thanks a lot for the responses! Some answers from my side: - The bike NEEDS a full service and tune anyway, it has been over a year. Fluids/filters, valves, TPS, synch, the works. - I will also change the fuel filter so I will have a look at the lines in the tank as well. - The 15RC ECU can be read out using Guzzidiag, so I assume I can also read and adjust the map (I have experience in this on my V11 to solve light pinging) - The bradthebikeboy tune is already on my desk as a print out:) I'm familiar with Guzzidiag and TuneEcu. If the tune up does not solve the pinging, can I add some fuel to help it in that area where she pings (this solved it for my V11) or does that only work on an open loop map (no Lambda)? If so, any clues to where I may find a good Open loop (no Lambda) map as a starter?

They may have faded from the heat, but funny enough my Mandello Rosso has that as well. The porkchops do the same (but less), and the tank and seat cover stay nice and red. It almost seems like the paint on alu parts does not hold as well as on the plastic parts.