Tinus89

My dad has one of these, and it runs lean. Lean as in pinging. I've offered to do a service (oil/filters/valves etc). My question is: can I also read out this ECU using Guzzidiag and my V11 cable? Is the ECU also a 15x unit like the V11? Does anyone know the TPS settings?

- Removal of transmission from engine - Untorque input hub transmission - Remove rear cover bolts and rear plate complete with all shafts comes out.

Actually you may want to consider checking the clutch is free. I've had a friend with a Cali III FI whom's clutch fused together in sitting just 8 months. If your gearbox is out as well, just connect the engine and gearbox together with 4 bolts and connect & bleed the clutch lever (next to the bike) and see if she declutches. If that works, all fine. If the gearbox is out anyway, should take less then an hour and no need for special tools.

Yesterday evening I disassembled and cleaned the entire carbs (carb cleaner + compressed air trough all galleries/jets). Nothing worrysome to find. Reassembled and restarted: exact same behavior. I'm considering temporarely swapping L/R to see if the problem moves with the carb. Define "hanging up"? It runs fine with the choke closed...

Correct. Cold start without choke is fine (on the throttle to keep her running the first 3-5min), as soon as I choke she dies on the LH cylinder.

V65 Florida, Dellorto PHBH 30 carbs.

Hello people, As my V11 and Caponord are going towards "finished" (read: reliable), and this COVID-19 has ruled out most social things as well as holidays, I've decided to start a dream of mine: build a cafe racer scrambler. The victim (and thus my 3rd bike) is a V65 Florida with 45.000km. She runs fine, but is in need to TLC (and stripping). Oh and yes, that guy is me I'll probably mostly use this topic for the build progress (it will be multi-year project) and technical questions, simply because this is one of the best forums in the world! So far I've done a little tune-up and rode her for 150km, just for a shakedown. Question: I've worked mostly on FI bikes. This one had a stuck choke cable (in the LH carburetor), which I worked free. However, when I apply choke when she is cold, the seems to drown in fuel on the LH cylinder. I've already flushed the LH carburetor, what else can I try? Disassemble and ultrasonic bath?

KINDOY2, what have you done to the header pipes to make them this black?

Actually, I have to admit something. My clutch isn't entirely V11 twin-plate. Because when I did the mod, I could not source a V11 twin-plate flywheel. Here is what I did: - Aftermarket steel V10 Centauro flywheel - Lemans starter gear (I think the latest Lemans before the V11, but unsure. It was a used part) - All other parts V11 twin clutch (new) except for the intermediate plate (used, but V11). To make this fit I used 8mm/m6 guide bolts (starter gear was M8, flywheel M6). The reason I hook onto this thread with my remark about the absence of rattle, is that my clutch engages late. I mean really late. I suspected the pushrod, but lately found out that is not the issue. So I suspect my modified clutch (now has 10.000km of experience) is a bit too loose when engaged (i.e. plates compressed). For this I suspect two possible causes: - Weak springs, I may have to go to either alternating weak+strong, or 8x strong. - Too much room in the clutch due to the combination of parts not being standard... I have the feeling my clutch will maybe last another 5-10k km. When it starts to slip, I will have to go and investigate....

Nope, it did not have that mount. It does now Yes, I added this plate Docc. It does. Unless you weld a mount on the frame to receive the plate, like I did.

I like your venture... However: my Rosso has been converted to a twin-plate setup. I must admit, not a standard one, but for sure twin plate. So is it fair to assume a twin-plate V11 clutch should not rattle when engaged (in neutral)? Because mine does rattle when engaged...

Glad she is OK! I did a similar thing on my black frame V11, left side as well, which cracked my gearbox directly adjacent the top rear mount. May want to check for that. Mine does not have the mid engine-gearbox-frame mount (well, it didn't then, it does now. And a new gearbox), I'm sure it would be fine if it has it.

Leave the middle bolt loose so it can slide, turn the bars to full lock left, move the damper all the way until it bottoms out, move it back by 3-5mm, tighten middle slider nut? @knumbnutz: how come your V11 does not have any clutch rattle?

Hey everyone, quick question on the same subject (I could not find the answer via search). Whenever I roll my V11 forward, and then engage the first gear to drive off, I hear a clunking noise. I just noticed it as I normally drive with earplugs, but this time without. The noise is coming from the bevel gear "sloppage". I can see the axle going into the bevel box turn about 1/8 of a turn before it actually engages, making a bit of a clunking noise. Should I worry and start taking things apart, or is this normal V11 sloppyness? When I engage the gear after reversing (so bevel gears are engaged already), the noise is not there. Also no other strange noises coming from the bike.

Hi all, Sorry for making a new topic for this, but after searching for about 10 minutes I gave up. My header pipes are starting to look dull and have spots on them, most likely from oil which burnt. Who has cleaned their exhaust header pipes and how? Which products used, which tools etc. I'm in doubt whether I should clean them or learn to love the patina:) Thanks!

Installed a used set of hardcover bags I managed to find. The rack is the standard rack, but replicated in stainless as the original was corroding away. The bags are far from new but with a little anti-rain spray they'll do for that one motorbike trip a year I'll take on this (also have the Caponord with much more space).

Did you have a look at my post a few posts up? [moderator edit]:

I usually check the level whenever I return from a ride. Because the oil is nice and warm then, it settles much faster when you hold the bike upright. I usually check about 5 min after ending the ride (time to take off the helmet/suit).

Use Fuel Injection rated fuel hose and you're the man. The regulator gives about 3-3.5bar, so aim a little above that.

There is another vendor who may be able to help (both of) you! Located in Germany, but currently closed for another month (14-03 they open again). https://smotos.de/ersatzteile/motorenteile-kurbelwellenlager-kurbelwellen-ventildeckel-nockewelle-oelwanne-oelpumen/ Scroll down to "Motor-Steuer-Deckel Stirndeckel". There are two, one grey one (first) and one black one (second). Both are used parts. Good luck.

Yes, worked it off with a small screw driver. Worked remarkably well. As the spacer behind the original cover is plastic as well, I and the new cover is CF, I think applying low torque (say 5-10Nm) and using Loctite should be sufficient. I'm not going to put inserts in there, not worth the risk.

Nope, they don't. I could not find any who did, so I decided I'll try it anyway. I considered reeming the holes and making alu inserts myself, but did not dare to reem the holes. Good tip on rubber washer+locktight. I may just do so. https://mdicarbonfiber.com/ The finish quality is excellent, however I would like to have seen it a little bit thicker. And with Lucky Phil's alu inserts in the mounting holes.

I know, so I of course kept the old one as well. It is a 80eur gamble, we 'll see how long it lasts. It is real CFRE, so it should be able to take some beating. I'll update the forum once it breaks:).

Replaced the old & tired alternator guard with a flashy CFRE one. Old New Downside: now the oil cooler guard is ugly...