Tinus89

Use Fuel Injection rated fuel hose and you're the man. The regulator gives about 3-3.5bar, so aim a little above that.

There is another vendor who may be able to help (both of) you! Located in Germany, but currently closed for another month (14-03 they open again). https://smotos.de/ersatzteile/motorenteile-kurbelwellenlager-kurbelwellen-ventildeckel-nockewelle-oelwanne-oelpumen/ Scroll down to "Motor-Steuer-Deckel Stirndeckel". There are two, one grey one (first) and one black one (second). Both are used parts. Good luck.

Yes, worked it off with a small screw driver. Worked remarkably well. As the spacer behind the original cover is plastic as well, I and the new cover is CF, I think applying low torque (say 5-10Nm) and using Loctite should be sufficient. I'm not going to put inserts in there, not worth the risk.

Nope, they don't. I could not find any who did, so I decided I'll try it anyway. I considered reeming the holes and making alu inserts myself, but did not dare to reem the holes. Good tip on rubber washer+locktight. I may just do so. https://mdicarbonfiber.com/ The finish quality is excellent, however I would like to have seen it a little bit thicker. And with Lucky Phil's alu inserts in the mounting holes.

I know, so I of course kept the old one as well. It is a 80eur gamble, we 'll see how long it lasts. It is real CFRE, so it should be able to take some beating. I'll update the forum once it breaks:).

Replaced the old & tired alternator guard with a flashy CFRE one. Old New Downside: now the oil cooler guard is ugly...

Looks awesome! Where did you buy the gauge?

What exactly did you order?

I have checked charging voltage (fine, 13.9v and fairly stable). Battery voltage is 12.7v with the ignition off. I have not yet done any other measurements, suggestions to what I should check? Also cleaned the ground connections today (engine block+voltage regulator), the alternator connections and battery connections with Caig DeOxit. Spoke to a friended electrical engineer. In his opinion, close to 30A through the spade connectors of the fuse holder will generate some heat, especially if the connection is not properly maintained (guilty) and closed in into a watertight housing. His thought on the auto-reset fuse is that they generally do not like the amount of vibration a motorcycle gives, so he advised me to change the type of fuse holder for this design: The fuse is bolted between the two connections (he didn't have a 30A one for me, he'll order it). What do you people think?:)

I have, a Ctek XS 0.8, which only delivers 0.8A max... Wires are fine, it is really the contact between the fuse holder and fuse which get hot. The fuse itself was barely molten. I'm guessing it is Chinese, bought it at an automotive store. It is one of those watertight ones, which is nice, but also prevents any heat from escaping. Could something like this work? Dutch website, sorry...

After reading this thread, as a precaution, I also installed a large automotive fuse holder with a 30A fuse in 2017. The holder was good for up to 40A fuses. In what I would call a routine check, I discovered this... I'll have a look at regulator + main ground, and I am sure she is not overcharging. Also no auxillaries connected aside from a GPS... Any ideas for a solution? Airplane style circuit breaker? Higher rated fuse+holder?

I have a 2001 with 41.000km, looks better than Chucks... And yes, Chuck's looks good:).

If it has been standing for several years in a non-heated storage space, I would also consider flusing the frame tube. Corrosion may occur in the "oil separation" part of the frame tube, causing corrosion particles to return to the sump. I've seen quite some corrosion on mine... As the advise is to take the tank off anyway... Remove the lower connection of the breather hose, flush a solvent trough it (with the oil return line disconnected as well).

I agree with Phil. I have a 2001, but am unsure whether it is the "short" or the "long" frame. It is black (so should be long) but also lacked the brace between engine and transmission (which makes it a red frame again). Guzzi has done some strange things. Once I dared to ride it like it should be ridden, it indeed runs like a train. If it is in good condition (can we have a picture please?) and you like Guzzi's, buy it for that price. Go through the main issues/upgrades and have loads of fun on it. I have three bikes, had some before, but this one is never ever leaving again Edit: Oh, and welcome to the forum!

Hi all, In 10 days time (01-10-19), the Netherlands (and I think Western Europe) will transfer from E5 to E10 fuel, so fuel containing up to 10% of bio-ethanol. I mostly use Shell V-power (which always claimed to be ethanol-free, but when they introduced stickers with E5 on the fuel dispensers to provide clarity, they also fitted the V-power dispenser with an E5 sticker...), but sometimes also need to use EUR95 fuel. Only for winter parking, I ensure I have quality fuel in the tank. My tank has not (yet) swollen. Bike is from 2001. Question: would you or would you not use E10 fuel for normal use? For long-term storage (winter months), I will still ensure at least V-power or equivalent is in the tank. Thanks a lot!

I'm sure my V11 only has one throttle cable, not two like in a push-pull (which is actually pull-pull) setup...

Nope, this clutch disk is for twin-plate clutches. I don't know about the compatibility of RAM clutch plates with the MG single plate clutch with steel flywheel. There really is only one way to find out I'm afraid... How confident are you that the clutch is slipping because of a worn friction plate? Some other potential issues to consider: - Tampered with clutch master slave setting (original clutch handle installed?) causing build up of hydraulic pressure - Partial misinstallation of the new clutch, causing the plate to not see enough of the "push" from the diafragm spring plate - Broken or worn fingers on the diafragm spring plate (very normal on passenger cars! Especially Italian ones, don't ask me how I know...) To be honest, because of the price and unavailability, I would really want to open her up first, before making the decision whether to source a new friction plate, put new material on this one, or change over to dual plate clutch.

I know someone who has done that. Turning down on a lathe did not work, as the hub is hardened so much it just flicked parts of the cutting blade instead of lose material. As I understood from the lathe operator, that was one of the only times he was scared behind the lathe Eventually they grounded it down to the right dimensions. Jorrit, where in the NL do you live (out of curiosity, I live in Groningen and have replaced my single to a dual plate as well). Have you looked for the parts at Stein-Dinse or Valpolini? HMB-Guzzi?

If I kick out the side stand, and then push the gear lever down slowly (Clutch disengaged), she tries to stall. I can imagine a poor contact there could cause the ignition to be weak, causing it to die on higher rpms?

If your bike does not feature the additional transmission-frame bracket, look for possible oil leaks at the top mount of the gearbox. This is how I cracked my transmission case, by dropping her...

I've had this as well, the press-fit axle changed into a loose fit, causing the axle/shaft to rotate and leak oil. I've fixed it two years ago by extensively degreasing it and then glued it into place using a commercial two-component epoxy-based metal glue. Tried it before with liquid gasket sealant, did not hold as the shaft experiences some degree of torque when shifting, so the sealang broke again.

I have actually seen it happen on a '99 bike (Japanese, with a steel tank) a few years ago.

I'm not gonna say it has to be Phase Sensor, but I have had the experience where the bike would idle and rev up to ~2000rpm, but above that start sneezing/backfiring and die. Revving above 2krpm and then let go throttle, she would just pick up idle again. Culprit: a non-oil compatible o-ring underneath the phase sensor which had swollen enough to make the gap of the sensor way too large for a proper reading. So it IS possible. But I agree with Phil: go for the more straight forward stuff first!

Interesting. I had cutouts/misfires and the strangest shit starting around 3k rpm once, even that bad that when I held the throttle WO, she would just die. What it was? Previous owner most likely placed a non-oil compatible and too large o-ring around the sensor, which pushed it away from the phonic wheel. When the o-ring was oil-saturated and the engine became properly hot (city traffic), going above 3k rpm caused her to die.... Was clearly visibly by the sensor mounting plate to be bent outwards.