Tinus89

Which mufflers are those? Quite like them high up like that (higher compared to my carbon Lafranconi's).

I would suggest starting with checking the master cylinder and possibly rebuilding the caliper, not the other way around. Given history (WD40 exposure+long idle time) and behavior.

I've had the same issue going up from 3rd gear I thought, but I misassembled my shifter linkage and it was hitting on the starter just barely. The shifter travel is different in different gears I would say...

Don't forget you also need to close the butterfly valve completely, which means backing off the high idle mechanism and idle stop screw, as well as unlinking the connecting rod. Otherwise the butterfly valve is not closed, but in idle position. In that position it should be around 571mV.

Yes, so was my 2001 RM. I've added the mounting point (welded to the frame) as shown here.

Installed a new starter a few days ago, what a difference! My starter must have been quite poor since I had the bike For people in Europe, I decided to be cheap and take a gamble by buying this starter: Under 60eur. Very happy with it, let's see how it lasts!

So.... This explains the poor starting: two loose magnets.

I did not know this! The roadside assistance did so, but carefully tapping, not hammering away. I better check the front of the starter as well then...

A new battery did fix the issue! But I will soon find some time to take apart the front part of the starter as well and give it a good clean+some oil:)

I have already disassembled the back end, the brushes etc are fine (not a lot of debris either). All electical connections are clean. How do I disassemble the front in order to check the magnets etc? I'm asking as it was a PITA to reassemble the rear end Actually, here in the NL, in order to become road side assistance, you first have to be an experienced car mechanic. Then you get company-specific training before you are sent out on the road.

Hey all, So, mine has got it as well, she is sick. A severe case o Startus Interruptus. After a nice ride, parked the bike for about 15min and wanted to start her again, but all I get is a *click*. The instruments lights dim but she does not start. The Go Winky light is green. Tried jumpstarting her with a car, same result. There is clear load on the electrics, as even the car rpm drops a little when pushing the starter button. Tried so far: - Checked fuses, flipped the kill switch, shorted the sidestand switch. - Rock her in gear to change the starter gear orientation, engine is free to move but no luck. - Checked the ground connection to the gearbox, fine. Any ideas where I should look? Now waiting for road side assistance... Update: also in road-side assistance there are different "quality" service techs. I got the type that grows enthousiastic when his first three attempts don't yield any more results! Second battery on battery + and frame bolt, response varying from *click* to *rrrrt*. He then tapped the starter with a hammer, same result. He then put power directly on the starter, which caused it to crank once and then just turn (which is interesting, without activating the starter relay it should only turn, not crank the engine!). We then started the engine again using my battery (*click*) and a fresh, second battery: succes!! I will buy a new battery, but my questions are: - Should I expect the starter to be past it as well? - Is there anything else in the starter control I should look at, which could cause these symptoms? I read something on the forum but did not fully understand...

I have seen that happen on a big block once, on smallblocks several times, but that may have had something to do with the person driving it (not me).

As in, leaking oil or actually loosing compression? Possibly replaced the gaskets recently and did not re-torque the heads after a while? Otherwise I have never seen that happen on a bigblock Guzzi...

Hi people, As I pointed out in the Red&Black frame topic, I added the frame-gearbox connection plate to my 2001 (40.000km) V11. When I did so, I also removed the oil return line (frame->sump) for the welding. As pics say more then words, here is what I found: The banjo bolt is clearly corroded from the outside. The inside was full of debris, which I removed and put on this wash cloth: Note: this debris only comes from the banjo bolt! I then flushed the oil return line using brake cleaner, into a plastic bag. Clearly visible are some hard metallic particles, 2-4mm in size. Another observation is when I drained my sump, there was one very 1-2mm metal particle attached to the magnetic oil plug. So clearly, the moisture from temperature differences, collects in the frame tube/oil separator and causes corrosion inside the frame tube. Aside from metal particles getting into the engine oil (I'm not to worried about that with the mesh filter and oil filter in place), but how about corrosion of the frame tube? Should we all be worried?

Escorted my dad on his 3.5yr owned BMW 1200RT to trade it in to the right brand of bike His in the front, mine in the back.

As I had mentioned in this topic: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20337&hl= my gearbox had cracked, probably due to dropping the bike once. As suggested in the topic by a bunch of you guys, I felt adding the brace with the new gearbox from Rolf was the way to go. Last week I finally found the time! Some pics: Making a cartboard tryout. Steel insert ready for welding. Welded and paint restored. Not the greatest paint job I know, but once the bike was put together you could not see it anymore:). Connecting plate painted in the right colour. Let's hope she never has to hold anymore (as in: I don't ever drop her anymore), but if I do, that this will be sufficient in order to protect the gearbox!

On my '01 V11 (stock, except for K&N filters and a different flywheel/clutch), I've always had coughs under 3000rpm. This was cured up to 70% by doing the decent tune up several times (eventually I got the best result by adjusting idle balance using the white knob, and having air bypass screws just 1/2 turn open. Adjusting idle using air bypass screws does not have a desired effect on my bike) and another 20% by adjusting the CO trim upwards a little (somewhere around +25 now). I have also had pinging on some hot days, with throttle > 50% and rpm in the range of 3500Wow. Not only did some tinkering (with thought behind it, not just changing numbers randomly) with the fueling in that area (increase in 10-15% of fuel) completely solve the pinging, it also caused for a better pull through those rpm ranges! Good luck:)

My bike features that exact tensioner (I put it in myself) but also features the 3k stumble. Sorry.

Don't forget to let us know how they sound...

Cleaned my switch yesterday, all good again!

Took her for a 260km ride today. COLD in the shed. Cranked over very slow *hunk hunk hunk hunk oh-oh .... hunk .... brrraaahw!* Pfew. Slick as hell in the morning, almost lost her when the front wheel went left and the rear decided to try and pass.... But boy, does that girl pull like a f*cking freight train at 2degC outside! Broke my indicator button. Does not want to move left anymore, and barely right. There seems to be some kind of blockage in the switch. Anyone ever had this issue (and solved it)?

Nice! White suits it, is it the original color? Also good to see another Dutchy here:)

Are you sure the leak is not coming from the crankcase breather hose (which is also in the picture I think?). Mine coughs up some watery/mayonaise like drips from that on a cold start. Same colour.

I would love to, but can't seem to find a proper sized, affordable pressure gauge in Europe... How in heaven's name do you get the bullet connector inside that rubber cover? After I lightly tapped the malfunctioning flasher relay with a screwdriver, she behaved again for a minute, then slowly increasing pace again. The replacement flasher relay works fine... Could there still be a short somewhere?