Tinus89

Hey all, So I have two questions regarding the fabulous V11 electrical and sensory system: 1. When I put the ignition on, my oil pressure light does not salute me anymore. When I take the bullet connector off it and ground that somewhere, the light turns on again. Am I right to conclude my oil pressure sensor has heeled over? 2. In the last 6000km, Bella Rosso has eaten two flasher relays already. One was an open failure, the other one was nearly blinking faster than I could see. Is this normal in your experience? I did have a friend advise me to use a "relay holder" (fancy word for a piece of rubber tie-ripped to the frame) to prevent them from failing, which I did when I installed the 3rd one tonight. Cheero,

I'm also reading with a lot of interest Meinolf!

Guys and girls, question time: when (re)assembling the exhaust system, the only seal/gasket in place is the one at the heads. Aside from snugging up all connections nice and tight, do you do anything else to prevent exhaust leaks?

Buying or trading? I can see a set of Stainless ones on your pic?

After installing a different set of exhausts (same model, insurance) and filling her up with a full tank of EUR95 fuel, she was pinging badly in the range of 4k-5.5k rpm at WOT. It was hot that day, around 25degC, which usually worsens it quite, but still. It was bad. I've had my suspicions of the TPS for a while now, because of some coughing at idle and around 3k rpm. She is standard aside from airpods. Made some graphs using GuzziDiag and identified a hump at the same position each time. Using a multimeter I read out the resistance, which also moved quite a bit whilst slowly opening the throttle. I had enougj reason to spend the money. Purchased the PF3C from Exactuk.com for about 90 eur. Installed her today, went for a ride at 35degC(!!). At this temperature, still with the same 95 fuel in the tank, I would accept some minor pinging/detonation. Ho Ly Mo Ly What a difference. Idle is better (she now can idle at 1000rpm - still likes 1100rpm better though - but never could do that), and she pulls like a freight train. Some minor pinging at WOT around 3k rpm, but hey, I don't spend a lot of time there with WOT anyway and it was hot outside and I still had the same 95fuel. In short: if you really suspect your TPS: - The PF3C from ExactUK.com works perfect - It really is worth it!

How exactly did you clean the injectors?

Took me a while, but here is a pic of the bottom:

I've had some issues setting CO trim myself, but discovered the engine needs to be a lot above 80degC. If around 78degC, there is no error message, but it just does not save the setting. Even above 80deg C, I had to try a number of times to get it right. The order of saving/switching off/on etc also plays a role.

So the way the sidestand has it's "toe" upwards on the right side of my pic, already shows it must only wear on the heel. I'll take a picture tonight. Lumpyness of idle does not impact that much, in my experience. Because of the way the side stand is oriented, it acts as a sort of spring, which makes the bike move forwards or backwards (not sure) when idling. Even when I raise the idle to 3000rpm, she still moves. Vibration does a lot of damage in engineering;). Relative soft aluminium vs unfinished concrete, add vibration and some weight in the mix, and you have significant wear. No wonder a lot of bike makers (especially with big twins) use steel for side stands...

Mine also wears (and the foot is not flat on the floor). Floor is unfinished concrete, and when she idles she slowly "walks" backwards, about 3-5cm per minute Here's a pic:

Shiloh, You have two TDC's for each cilinder: compression stroke (both valves closed) and 360deg ahead exhaust stroke (valves NOT closed). If you can't spin the pushrods, you most likely have the exhaust stroke. Turn the engine 360deg and try the same cilinder again.

Thanks Walterg, PM sent! On the aftermarket cans: I definitely see this as an opportunity! But which would you guys prefer for sound+engine quality? Mistral oval? Mistral Titanium? One remark: I would like to keep the possibility of taking someone for a ride, i.e. passenger footrests.

Please do let me know! I know. I have been in contact with dad and we together decided Insurance is the way to go. That means.... I should have two options: - Find a used one (or set) for less money - Find a nice set of aftermarket once. As I see this as an opportunity: what would you guys recommend?

Hey all, As you may know, I spent a trip with my father to the Alps. Great driving and all went well... except for a small collision. I was driving in front, my dad made a mistake and hit me from behind. His bike contacted my swingarm on the right side, and my muffler. Damage: a dent in the backside of the swingarm, the muffler pushed inwards a bit and a long scratch in the right side muffler: Close up The pushed in muffler and the dent to the swingarm, I will repair myself. For the muffler cover however, I do not want to. It is the second time it happened (first time it was the left side and I repaired the damage myself) and therefore I decided I don't want to put time/money into fixing the carbon fibre. My dad is willing to pay or call his insurance and he was at fault (both times). Question: any ideas on how I can solve this? I can't find a used muffler anywhere. Stein Dinse claims to have a new one, for 1200EUR . Any advice?

In the end, I decided the offer Rolf was giving was too good to pass. We met in Kiel in the parking lot and exchanged money for a gearbox. The frowns on people's faces walking past alone were even worth it. Did the trip to the Alps, all great! I'll have a think about what to do with the broken box. Repair or use for parts... Thanks Rolf, and thanks all for the help! Rolf is a great guy who really tried to help me the best he could:)

Next to Lake Livignio, Italy.

I only asked about the price.... and then decided to be cheap and Dutch and not go for it!

Yes, that is the exact way I set it:)

Ok, here is what I did: - Reset both air bleed screws at 3/4 turn open - Adjust balance using white knob - Set idle a little higher, around 1350rpm on the gauge (forgot to bring my laptop, so could not check GD) Observations: - I am an idiot as I did not back off the RH idle raiser/choke screw last time, hence all adjustments I did last time were not perfect - Drivability has significantly increased! Still some pops when opening the throttle at idle, but significantly better! - I measured TPS resistance between the two wires. When i start opening the throttle real slow, it starts off at 1070Ohm, slowly dips to 1065Ohm, slowly rises to 1200, dips to 1170, rises further. There are some minor dips every time (does not matter whether I use the throttle lever or the connecting rod), but is this an issue, or normal?

I fully agree, that's what surprised me as well, that it does not idle as nicely then. What do you call "a bit higher"? Also keeping in mind mine has a Centauro flywheel mounted when it was converted to a 2-plate clutch, which may have a lower centrifugal weight. Maybe I just have to re-set it using the "white knob method" and take her for a ride... Because in the end, how much time do you (should you) spend idling? Oh please, which are?

What I did: - Cleaned, and set both air bleed valves to one turn open. - Warmed her up and balanced idle with the white knob. Idle was around 1250rpm. She was idling OK, but the clutch was very loud and could not be made quiet with the clutch leaver, indicating a disbalance. I do not know whether she would still backfire or not. I then got frustrated, turned back the white knob and solved the disbalance with the air bleed screws, giving me a more balanced, quiet idle (clutch quieter as well), but showed a hiccup again as well. Then I got thinking: what has changed since the gearbox change-out? - Different gearbox - Different oil in the gearbox: the new one came with 85W140 vs 80W90 (old) I know I have some wear in my piston rings (145/135psi compression test left/right - tested last year). Would the difference in compression in combination with more internal friction in the gearbox because of thicker oil, cause the disbalance and therefore popping/sneezing?

It does sound really simple and I am definitely going to try it. But then my question remains: why would I want to start off with both air bypass screws 1turn open? And not fully closed?

This makes perfect sense, actually. Why would you want to add air to the mixture at idle without fuel? I'll try setting it to 1 turn on both ABS's and then balance it using the white knob (and my CarbTune). Question: if this is really the case, what are the air bleed screws for anyway then?

First report: Electrical connection of gearbox ground is good. No leaks in the exhaust. I fully closed both air bypass screws and then turned them out 1/4 turn. Balanced her by opening the left air bypass for about another 1/2-3/4 turn, balance was excellent then. Rode her: pops on the right side are gone. Some still present on the left side, but much less annoying. After coming back I decided to close the left one 1/4 more, I'll have to ride her again to see what that did. But certainly big improvement and slowly getting there:). Question: as the right one is stil 1/4th turn out, is there any reason why I would not want to close that one entirely and use only the left idle screw to balance her?

Thanks for moving the topics and all the replies! Electrical ground is tight, but I will measure it to ensure electrical connection is OK. Airbox was not removed, as I don't have one (K&N filters). Air temp sensor is relocated underneath the seat cowl and gives the right temp in GuzziDiag Tank has not been off, petcock is open. Nothing is making contact with the TPS:) Good point, as they have been off for the gearbox install! CO trim was set to zero, but changing it to either +10 or -10 did not affect the idle running. I agree it sounds lean. When I was balancing the throttle bodies, I heated up the right exhaust bend to dark orange... My air bypass screws are about 1 and 2.25 turns out (right hand side more -> which is the side that glowed the exhaust bend. I think you may have an excellent point here, I will turn them both a bit more in and adjust with the idle setting to get her running properly.