Tinus89

Ok, here is what I did: - Reset both air bleed screws at 3/4 turn open - Adjust balance using white knob - Set idle a little higher, around 1350rpm on the gauge (forgot to bring my laptop, so could not check GD) Observations: - I am an idiot as I did not back off the RH idle raiser/choke screw last time, hence all adjustments I did last time were not perfect - Drivability has significantly increased! Still some pops when opening the throttle at idle, but significantly better! - I measured TPS resistance between the two wires. When i start opening the throttle real slow, it starts off at 1070Ohm, slowly dips to 1065Ohm, slowly rises to 1200, dips to 1170, rises further. There are some minor dips every time (does not matter whether I use the throttle lever or the connecting rod), but is this an issue, or normal?

I fully agree, that's what surprised me as well, that it does not idle as nicely then. What do you call "a bit higher"? Also keeping in mind mine has a Centauro flywheel mounted when it was converted to a 2-plate clutch, which may have a lower centrifugal weight. Maybe I just have to re-set it using the "white knob method" and take her for a ride... Because in the end, how much time do you (should you) spend idling? Oh please, which are?

What I did: - Cleaned, and set both air bleed valves to one turn open. - Warmed her up and balanced idle with the white knob. Idle was around 1250rpm. She was idling OK, but the clutch was very loud and could not be made quiet with the clutch leaver, indicating a disbalance. I do not know whether she would still backfire or not. I then got frustrated, turned back the white knob and solved the disbalance with the air bleed screws, giving me a more balanced, quiet idle (clutch quieter as well), but showed a hiccup again as well. Then I got thinking: what has changed since the gearbox change-out? - Different gearbox - Different oil in the gearbox: the new one came with 85W140 vs 80W90 (old) I know I have some wear in my piston rings (145/135psi compression test left/right - tested last year). Would the difference in compression in combination with more internal friction in the gearbox because of thicker oil, cause the disbalance and therefore popping/sneezing?

It does sound really simple and I am definitely going to try it. But then my question remains: why would I want to start off with both air bypass screws 1turn open? And not fully closed?

This makes perfect sense, actually. Why would you want to add air to the mixture at idle without fuel? I'll try setting it to 1 turn on both ABS's and then balance it using the white knob (and my CarbTune). Question: if this is really the case, what are the air bleed screws for anyway then?

First report: Electrical connection of gearbox ground is good. No leaks in the exhaust. I fully closed both air bypass screws and then turned them out 1/4 turn. Balanced her by opening the left air bypass for about another 1/2-3/4 turn, balance was excellent then. Rode her: pops on the right side are gone. Some still present on the left side, but much less annoying. After coming back I decided to close the left one 1/4 more, I'll have to ride her again to see what that did. But certainly big improvement and slowly getting there:). Question: as the right one is stil 1/4th turn out, is there any reason why I would not want to close that one entirely and use only the left idle screw to balance her?

Thanks for moving the topics and all the replies! Electrical ground is tight, but I will measure it to ensure electrical connection is OK. Airbox was not removed, as I don't have one (K&N filters). Air temp sensor is relocated underneath the seat cowl and gives the right temp in GuzziDiag Tank has not been off, petcock is open. Nothing is making contact with the TPS:) Good point, as they have been off for the gearbox install! CO trim was set to zero, but changing it to either +10 or -10 did not affect the idle running. I agree it sounds lean. When I was balancing the throttle bodies, I heated up the right exhaust bend to dark orange... My air bypass screws are about 1 and 2.25 turns out (right hand side more -> which is the side that glowed the exhaust bend. I think you may have an excellent point here, I will turn them both a bit more in and adjust with the idle setting to get her running properly.

Throttle body rubbers are in good nick and properly installed. No cracks etc. Screws for the throttle balancing are tight with an aluminium washer underneath. Where else could she draw air?

After replacing the gearbox, I have this exact issue: Missing/popping/sneezing at idle and at minor throttle (until ~3000rpm when running very light loads). When I VERY slowly increase the throttle a little, I can usually make the pop happen. Must know: When installing the gearbox, I very briefly made a short circuit between the battery positive and the frame. Could this be related? Done so far: cleaned TB's, set TPS at 153mV (showing 540mV at idle), balanced at idle, rode her, minor improvement. Then I set the valves to 0.22/0.18mm. This did give improvement, but did not take the issue away. What else can I do?

To which temperature did you heat it? It needs to be above 80degC, otherwise it won't work. I've tried it last weekend as well, at 75degC, it did all the steps but when I went back in to have a look, nothing changed. Above 80degC it worked.

I used some copper grease to stick them in place in the flywheel, which I think was successful. I expect the dislodgement would have been on the pressure plate side as well. But as it were not my fingers on the inside replacing the springs, I am not sure;)

When I changed my single to dual, I did not replace the push rod. So a single plate rod works on a twin plate config. Which flywheel did you install? I have had troubles with the clutch leaver handle feeling sort of normal (but stiffer than in my memory), but not disengaging. Eventually I took out the gearbox again, removed the starter ring gear (thus removing tension from the setup) and then had someone use his fingers through the hole in the clutch plates to check the springs, while I held the setup in slight compression. We found out that at least two of the springs, maybe more, had not settled in the recess on both sides (flywheel/pressure plate). This caused the space for disengagement to be absent. So in short: ensure you 100% correctly have all the springs in the recesses. Otherwise you can still install the assembly including starter ring gear, but it will not disengage. EDIT: I also don't see the receiver cup (GU04082800) for the pushrod in your assembly overview on the floor... Did you install it?

Just a question other wise, on a similar topic. After my last wheel installation, I was in doubt about the amount of distance between the bevel gear box and the wheel face that faces the bevel box. Anyone has a picture of that distance they can share or are willing to take a pic? Would be very helpful!

Interesting that you lost the washer, how stupid can you be? Oh wait, I can't find mine either . I lost mine a few month ago, solved it by applying the soft type Lock Tite. I am planning to source a thinner washer eventually, as it still does not feel right... How come no one has mentioned that yet, using thread locking compound to substitute the nylon? Is there something I should know? So far never lost it

I would be interested, depending on price and shipping to EU...

What happened to your right hand side exhaust?

I've had this exact problem, cutting out at 2500rpm, or if the throttle was WO at that point, coughing and backfiring for a bit and then cutting out. Described in http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19943&do=findComment&comment=220789 In the end, it was a too thick o-ring underneath the timing sensor, it was extruded underneath the mounting plate, pushing it away from the engine block. Heat of the engine would cause it to expand a little more, making the gap of the sensor just slightly bigger, causing it to lose readings above say 2500rpm... My guess here is timing sensor.

Just a sidenote: the V11's breather condensing system is indeed good, but also has it's limitations of course. I've heard that V11's sometimes wear their piston rings quite quickly. My V11 is also showing slightly worn piston rings (i.e. some blowby into the crankcase and thus breather) at 36.000km...

For sale because of not using it: Dynojet Powercommander PC3 for the V11 Sport. This PC is plug and play. It comes in original package, receipt, cabling, stickers, I've bought it from someone deciding to ditch his project and buy a new Truxton:) Some pics: Asking 275EUR for this forum. Location: The Netherlands.

I understand the stop leak stuff does not act on paper gaskets, but how about liquid gaskets? As that is the stuff used to seal the gearbox... Good point MartyNZ on the gearbox sightglass. I did clean it a year ago so it is clear, but maybe I've slightly overfilled it as well...

Yes, checked, clear. You have mail:) Excellent, but if I would do that, I would: - Weld the crack as well - Install the transmission bracket as well, but that is rather intrusive as my early black frame does not have the connecting plate, I would have to get that made/welded to the frame as well. For now that is not an option in the timeframe. Depending on the price, Rolf's transmission change-out can be. How about stop leak fluids? Any experience or do/don'ts?

Hey all, As you may know, my gearbox suffered a crack on the rear right next to the top frame mount. I've grinded away the metal and applied metal glue, which seems to hold fine. The leak however, is still present. After a 100km drive, I assessed the leak locations: it more and more seems to be one of the two rear sealing surfaces (in the housing) instead of the suspected crack. The intend is to bring the bike to the Alps for a week of driving in May (alternative is bringing my XL650V Transalp - lot less fun). There is a few things I can do: - Nothing. Bring a bottle of gearbox oil and keep an eye on the level. I should be fine for a whole day's driving without a refill. Risk: severe increase of the leak may lead to oil on the rear tire. - Take out tranny and fix leaks. Downsides: challenging in the timeframe, requires special tools, may still be the crack leaking of which repair is not feasible in the timeframe. Time consuming. - Apply one of those stop leak fluids in the tranny. If it were the engine, I would never use this kind of stuff, but as it is a tranny without oil pump and tiny oil galleries, I might try it. Optionally I could drive it for a while, and if the leak stops, replace the oil with clean oil before the trip. Questions: - What would you do? - Any experience with stop leak fluids/aids? So far (leak slowly increasing in severity) I've refilled about 600ml in about 3500km of driving.

Confirmation: the tacho of a Cali EV does not work on a V11 sport:( No response whatsoever to the check tach command in Guzzidiag. I've sent it back to the seller. Luckily my tach is still working:)

Thanks. Yes, same yellow/redline and range (7k-8k-11k) I know. But they are not original and are about 3x more expensive (each) than the 50euro I am paying for this tacho. I've agreed with the seller I can return it when it doesn't work. Of course I will post the results here:)

Hey all, My tacho has always been a bit sketchy to start off with. Upon disassembly of the cockpit for other maintenance, the two bushing between the tacho and the black plastic backcover came loose in the tacho housing. Solvable, but let's say it's not prestine anymore. The option has arisen to buy a used tacho for cheap money, but it is off I think a Cali EV. White face Veglia, just like mine. The owner thinks it came of a 1100sport. Stickers say "5500 IMP 12v" and the P/N is 037672000. Now the question before I purchase it as a backup: will it work on my V11 (15M ECU)? Thanks!