Tinus89

Throttle body rubbers are in good nick and properly installed. No cracks etc. Screws for the throttle balancing are tight with an aluminium washer underneath. Where else could she draw air?

After replacing the gearbox, I have this exact issue: Missing/popping/sneezing at idle and at minor throttle (until ~3000rpm when running very light loads). When I VERY slowly increase the throttle a little, I can usually make the pop happen. Must know: When installing the gearbox, I very briefly made a short circuit between the battery positive and the frame. Could this be related? Done so far: cleaned TB's, set TPS at 153mV (showing 540mV at idle), balanced at idle, rode her, minor improvement. Then I set the valves to 0.22/0.18mm. This did give improvement, but did not take the issue away. What else can I do?

To which temperature did you heat it? It needs to be above 80degC, otherwise it won't work. I've tried it last weekend as well, at 75degC, it did all the steps but when I went back in to have a look, nothing changed. Above 80degC it worked.

I used some copper grease to stick them in place in the flywheel, which I think was successful. I expect the dislodgement would have been on the pressure plate side as well. But as it were not my fingers on the inside replacing the springs, I am not sure;)

When I changed my single to dual, I did not replace the push rod. So a single plate rod works on a twin plate config. Which flywheel did you install? I have had troubles with the clutch leaver handle feeling sort of normal (but stiffer than in my memory), but not disengaging. Eventually I took out the gearbox again, removed the starter ring gear (thus removing tension from the setup) and then had someone use his fingers through the hole in the clutch plates to check the springs, while I held the setup in slight compression. We found out that at least two of the springs, maybe more, had not settled in the recess on both sides (flywheel/pressure plate). This caused the space for disengagement to be absent. So in short: ensure you 100% correctly have all the springs in the recesses. Otherwise you can still install the assembly including starter ring gear, but it will not disengage. EDIT: I also don't see the receiver cup (GU04082800) for the pushrod in your assembly overview on the floor... Did you install it?

Just a question other wise, on a similar topic. After my last wheel installation, I was in doubt about the amount of distance between the bevel gear box and the wheel face that faces the bevel box. Anyone has a picture of that distance they can share or are willing to take a pic? Would be very helpful!

Interesting that you lost the washer, how stupid can you be? Oh wait, I can't find mine either . I lost mine a few month ago, solved it by applying the soft type Lock Tite. I am planning to source a thinner washer eventually, as it still does not feel right... How come no one has mentioned that yet, using thread locking compound to substitute the nylon? Is there something I should know? So far never lost it

I would be interested, depending on price and shipping to EU...

What happened to your right hand side exhaust?

I've had this exact problem, cutting out at 2500rpm, or if the throttle was WO at that point, coughing and backfiring for a bit and then cutting out. Described in http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19943&do=findComment&comment=220789 In the end, it was a too thick o-ring underneath the timing sensor, it was extruded underneath the mounting plate, pushing it away from the engine block. Heat of the engine would cause it to expand a little more, making the gap of the sensor just slightly bigger, causing it to lose readings above say 2500rpm... My guess here is timing sensor.

Just a sidenote: the V11's breather condensing system is indeed good, but also has it's limitations of course. I've heard that V11's sometimes wear their piston rings quite quickly. My V11 is also showing slightly worn piston rings (i.e. some blowby into the crankcase and thus breather) at 36.000km...

For sale because of not using it: Dynojet Powercommander PC3 for the V11 Sport. This PC is plug and play. It comes in original package, receipt, cabling, stickers, I've bought it from someone deciding to ditch his project and buy a new Truxton:) Some pics: Asking 275EUR for this forum. Location: The Netherlands.

I understand the stop leak stuff does not act on paper gaskets, but how about liquid gaskets? As that is the stuff used to seal the gearbox... Good point MartyNZ on the gearbox sightglass. I did clean it a year ago so it is clear, but maybe I've slightly overfilled it as well...

Yes, checked, clear. You have mail:) Excellent, but if I would do that, I would: - Weld the crack as well - Install the transmission bracket as well, but that is rather intrusive as my early black frame does not have the connecting plate, I would have to get that made/welded to the frame as well. For now that is not an option in the timeframe. Depending on the price, Rolf's transmission change-out can be. How about stop leak fluids? Any experience or do/don'ts?

Hey all, As you may know, my gearbox suffered a crack on the rear right next to the top frame mount. I've grinded away the metal and applied metal glue, which seems to hold fine. The leak however, is still present. After a 100km drive, I assessed the leak locations: it more and more seems to be one of the two rear sealing surfaces (in the housing) instead of the suspected crack. The intend is to bring the bike to the Alps for a week of driving in May (alternative is bringing my XL650V Transalp - lot less fun). There is a few things I can do: - Nothing. Bring a bottle of gearbox oil and keep an eye on the level. I should be fine for a whole day's driving without a refill. Risk: severe increase of the leak may lead to oil on the rear tire. - Take out tranny and fix leaks. Downsides: challenging in the timeframe, requires special tools, may still be the crack leaking of which repair is not feasible in the timeframe. Time consuming. - Apply one of those stop leak fluids in the tranny. If it were the engine, I would never use this kind of stuff, but as it is a tranny without oil pump and tiny oil galleries, I might try it. Optionally I could drive it for a while, and if the leak stops, replace the oil with clean oil before the trip. Questions: - What would you do? - Any experience with stop leak fluids/aids? So far (leak slowly increasing in severity) I've refilled about 600ml in about 3500km of driving.

Confirmation: the tacho of a Cali EV does not work on a V11 sport:( No response whatsoever to the check tach command in Guzzidiag. I've sent it back to the seller. Luckily my tach is still working:)

Thanks. Yes, same yellow/redline and range (7k-8k-11k) I know. But they are not original and are about 3x more expensive (each) than the 50euro I am paying for this tacho. I've agreed with the seller I can return it when it doesn't work. Of course I will post the results here:)

Hey all, My tacho has always been a bit sketchy to start off with. Upon disassembly of the cockpit for other maintenance, the two bushing between the tacho and the black plastic backcover came loose in the tacho housing. Solvable, but let's say it's not prestine anymore. The option has arisen to buy a used tacho for cheap money, but it is off I think a Cali EV. White face Veglia, just like mine. The owner thinks it came of a 1100sport. Stickers say "5500 IMP 12v" and the P/N is 037672000. Now the question before I purchase it as a backup: will it work on my V11 (15M ECU)? Thanks!

Just shooting from the hip here: could it be cause by a leaking exhaust gasket at the head? I know that makes a very sharp, metallic sound. You may have tightened them more on the re-installation of the heads?

I know, but it is quite troublesome to install, as my early black frame does not have the support bracket to bolt it to. I would have to weld it in place, probably with the engine/tranny mounted as well in order to position it...

Tried to fix a cracked transmission! Using a Dremel and a very small mill, grounded out the area of the crack as good as possible, but it prove harder to actually follow the crack than anticipated. I then de-greased it about 5 times over 48hrs using brake cleaner, and created a large radius fill with Bison metal glue (epoxy-based, also used for repairing one of the two press-fit pins for the gear selector wheels). The result: Overall I'm pretty satisfied. If this does not fix this, welding is plan B. I will see if it lasts for maybe 1000km or so, if it does, I will paint it black so it goes unnoticed.

As both of you are saying what I already expected: no catastrophic failure, and since I am low on cash and reluctant to agáin take her apart completely, I am willing to leave it for a season and fix it next year. But, I do want to try and address the leak. Options: - Liquid gasket (since the case is already black anyway, and it is out of sight - Liquid metal - To yes or no use a small grinder (Dremel) and grind the crack into a V-shape before I fill her. What's your opinions? I also found this: http://hmb-guzzi.de/Gearbox-Housing-V11-black

What exactly do you mean? I've had the engine and tranny several times now, I don't really feel like doing so again. My black frame indeed does not have the bracket on the tube to bolt the additional support to... Are there any ideas on what will happen if I continue to ride her? Catastrophic failure?

So, I want to add to this topic, unfortunately. After "solving" my metallic rattle, I've found a new issue which is slowly worsening: a gearbox leak. Found a puddle of oil about 4-5cm in diameter below the bike after a spicy ride. Also found this: Which is on the right side (facing forward) of the bike. A close-up reveals this (click for large): I believe she is cracked in the red circle. Removed some of the black paint to show. In the green circle, there is a layer of gearbox oil. This means she should be cracked here: What would you guys do? Get someone to weld it? Try to use metal glue (succesful application on the selector panel left!) to seal? Liquid gasket?

I just started reading this thread... The position of the phonic wheel (with missing tooth) has nothing to do with the mechanicals (valve timing). It only tells the computer when to inject and fire. If it would be 180deg wrong, the computern would just inject and fire on the wrong cilinder, causing the engine not to run. Some questions: - Are you entirely sure the flywheel is correctly on the crankshaft? - Did you not forget to put in the little key in the crankshaft timing gear? I can't remember whether that was a separate one or not... I think if you misplace the crankshaft by 360deg on the camshaft, nothing happens. The valves won't hit.