coreytrevor

You should be able to use any hot wire that doesn't have a big load on it. I would want it switched by the ignition.

I hadn't seen it mentioned so I wanted to add that the newer(2003+)? bikes with the new style, possibly Japanese regulator, there is no need or benefit to grounding the regulator case. There is no continuity between the case and the regulator ground wires, so it seems, like Japanese systems and lots of others, that the regulator case was never meant to be part of the circuit. On another related note, has anyone tried one of these voltage monitors? They look really cool. Tiny enough to fit about anywhere, auto dimming, really inexpensive too, about 20 bucks. I think I will order a few. Maybe I will put it in the steering head nut hole. http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkright-eclipse-battery-voltage-monitor.php

Hello Meinolf, I tried sending you a PM twice but never heard back from you. Maybe it didn't get through? Thanks Edit: Or on second thought, since I'm probably not the only one who can make use of the table, could you just post it here?

What bothers me more than not getting to all the fuel is carrying 6 or 7 extra pounds around all the time, up high on the bike.

I just re-re-re-read this entire thread looking for an answer to a question. I am wanting to add fuel to my map around 3000rpm at 5 to 10 percent throttle to address a lean surge and backfire(through the intake) If I understand correctly, the throttle position numbers across the top of the fuel map in Tunerpro represent degrees of throttle plate opening. What I don't get is how to correlate degrees with tps voltages since I have no way to measure degrees. I'm used to Powercommanders and the throttle position represented in percentages. I'm betting there is something really basic I am just missing. I realize this would be easier with a datalogger but I'm not quite there yet. Thanks

Thanks!

On my GS, and on my 03 V11 also, the fuel pump is self contained on one side of the tank, so the pickup and return are on the same side. Because of that my siphon didn't need to flow very fast. I figured it only needed to flow about half as fast as fuel was being used. I guess you people with the return on the other side of the tank would have to move the return to the pickup side. I don't see how a siphon would work otherwise. On my GS, I used fuel line and weighted it with something(been a long time) to hold it down. The siphon kept getting air in it and eventually I figured out that the fuel return was putting small air bubbles up the siphon. I took 2 of these fuel filters (how do you resize photos?) and cut away most of the housing, leaving the gold element part exposed, and put them at the bottom of the hoses. That kept the air out unless the bike was on it's side.

I concur. I made a temporary bolt-on extension just to see if I liked it. I also blueprinted the shift mechanism at the same time. I never thought the shift throw was too long before but wow! Probably the best shifting bike I've ever had now.

I used to run Pilot Road 2s and 3s and they were great, but then I talked myself into trying the Conti Motion. Really inexpensive tire but they work as well as the Michelins for me. I can get to the edge of the rear and they feel totally secure and hooked up. I've been running them for maybe 20k miles and only had the rear slip a little one time when it was too cold to be pushing it. They don't last quite as long but the price makes it worth it.

My 1150GS trapped about a gallon on the wrong side of the tank. I made a siphon tube that ran from the low spot on each side of the tank up to a T at the hump with a hose up to the filler neck, plugged at the top. You could bleed the air out when the tank was full by pulling the plug, the fuel pushed the air out. If I dropped the bike or ran almost out of gas I had to re-bleed it but it worked great. I always wanted to try to make some kind of venturi setup using the flow from the fuel return in the tank. I figured the low pressure from the venturi would constantly draw the fuel from the other side if it was strong enough. Never got around to it but maybe on the V11.

One thing I've seen more than once is brake pads that got soaked with fork oil from leaking seals that never got replaced. They can make a sound like you describe and kind of a vibration too at lower speeds. After a while the pads don't really look like anything is wrong with them, so it can be hard to tell visually. Sometimes there will be junk packed into the pad grooves from the oil and brake dust etc. That's a giveaway. I would try new pads and cleaning the rotors really well. Make sure the holes in the rotors don't have oil and junk stuck in them. The rotors need to be clean enough that a cloth with brake cleaner rubbed on the rotor comes away clean.

Thanks for the offer. I think that airbox is all different though.

The Ducati people that have nylon tanks seem to like this stuff. http://www.caswellplating.com/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html

I don't but they usually list them by the I.D. of the hose.

That photo by the creek/rock face is great. Also the ride video. I'm surprised you got that long of a ride before getting stuck behind a car. You don't seem to be keeping your rpm up near redline like I've read you have to do to keep from ruining your bike!

No matter what map, you still have to index the map to the TPS "157 mV" baseline with the throttle plate fully closed, and zero the CO Fuel Trim. Oh, and the valve adjustment, balance the Throttle Bodies . . . Starting point: Decent Tune-up Yes, all that is done. Meinolf recommended 11 to 12 thousandths valve clearance intake and exhaust, as the take up ramps on the V11 cam are very long. Since he seems to be somewhat of a genius I went with .011". The valves are a bit louder but still quieter than a BMW airhead.

Mine is expanded somewhat too but I can still get the bolt in. The tank was coated inside when I got the bike so fingers crossed it doesn't get any worse. Seems like coating the tank before it grows much is the only prevention if you are stuck with ethanol fuel.

This evening I hooked up to my bike with Guzzidiag(first turning off Norton antivirus so it won't erase Guzzidiag every time I open it, anyone know how to fix that?) to get an idea of TPS voltage at 10% or so throttle. I'm trying to get rid of the 3000rpm, very light throttle lean surge and intake backfire, by adding some fuel there. Meinolf kindly sent me a map/BIN file he is running. The bike runs sweet, much smoother and more responsive but the 3000rpm lean spot got worse. I have yet to buy a air/fuel datalogger so I can fine tune the fuel map to my bike.If I get really lucky I will have a bike that runs when I am done.

I could probably have tried to surface the box and lid with a big piece of sandpaper on a piece of glass. Didn't think of that until now... Oh well, the silicone isn't going anywhere. I had seen that about the schnorkels but mine were chopped off before I got the bike.

I can't say how it happened either. When the front and back are pulled down by the bolts there is a gap at the sides that doesn't keep pressure on the filter. I don't know about overtightening it. When the bolts are tight the cover comes down against the airbox around the bolts.

Sorry, I didn't think to take pics at the time. The bike is back together now.

That's the breather line from the frame to the airbox. You could put one of the little K&N filters on it. It might drip a drop of oil from time to time.

I had my airbox out recently and noticed something not too good going on. The airbox and cover were both no longer flat where they contact the air filter. There was an actual gap between the cover and filter and also between the filter and box. This is on the long sides of the filter, furthest from the bolts. Sorry, no photos. The gap at the cover won't make much difference but there was obviously unfiltered air going between the filter and box surface. This is with a K&N filter which looks to be in good shape and not deformed in any way. My fix was just to run a bead of RTV on the bottom of the filter. I did this in the past on my 1150GS and the RTV became a permanent part of the filter, filling the gap, so only a thin film was needed when the filter was cleaned and put back in. I hadn't seen anything about this on the forum so I thought since it's not really obvious unless you are looking for it, maybe a lot of bikes have it going on. I know some people don't trust the filtering ability of the K&N but my I put 115k miles on my 1150GS with one. It went 80k miles without any change in valve clearance and the minor amount of oil consumption actually started to drop at 90k miles. I guess the rings were finally seating!

Would you put a piece or rubber hose or something over the spring to keep it from possibly vibrating and fatiguing? I've seen that a lot on sidestand and other springs. I thought about placing a pair of rare earth magnet(s) opposing each other, one on the lever and one on a bracket on the cover, to give a little push to the lever if the spring ever breaks. Haven't engineered placement or brackets yet but I think it would work to get the bike home if the spring broke. If it really worked you might not even realize the spring was gone. Just an idea for now. If I ever do it I will post some pics in case anyone is interested,

That's another thing I'm working on.