coreytrevor

Could you please post a link to where you found the dampers on Ebay?

I would leave the piston until the cylinder is off. Going back together it can be easier to get the piston and rings started in the cylinder, then install together, and do the wristpin and second circlip. I guess if you aren't planning on pulling the piston at all you could do it the other way, but don't you want to have a look at the piston and rings anyway? The only concern is to not let the piston drop and get damaged as you raise the cylinder.

Just remembered that the lifter faces are slightly convex, so you can hold them against each other to see if the convex-ness is still there.

I'd just pop the cylinder off, don't let the piston drop and bang into anything. Then the lifters are right there, don't mix up their positions. Pull them with a magnet. It should be easy to see damage to the lifter, not as easy with the cam lobes since they are down in there. If a lifter is damaged, usually the cam lobe is too.

Then you will like that the CO setting won't have much affect above closed throttle and small throttle openings. The rest of the time it should run like it runs now.

And you aren't supposed to use Guzzidiag to set the TPS. You"re doing it the right way if you are using a digital voltmeter. I agree that the trim setting is really important at idle and at small throttle openings. If the trim setting is off the fueling can be lean right off idle, and throttle control will imprecise and annoying.

On my bike, where the throttle cable hooks to the throttle tube(at the handlebar) there are 2 positions for the cable, smaller or larger diameter pulley. Mine was in the larger, quick turn position. I tried the small diameter position and it did help control the transition coming off closed throttle. Then I realized I liked the quicker turn throttle so I put it back.

I wish my bike was that clean. I like the 2/1 exhaust but I think the muffler would look better on the RH side, when the bike is on the sidestand. Or maybe I'm just used to seeing them on the right.

I've done this a number of times, really easy. Use an adapter from a compression tester connected to an air hose.

I don't know about the hoses but your intake manifold rubbers need to be replaced.

I can see it. That looks like a great solution.

Wow, less than half what Harpers wants for it. I would buy it from MI too.

I think it's #15 here: http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/1990-2000-moto-guzzi-motorcycles/v-11-sport-mandello-1100-1999-2001/frame-en-v11-sport-mandello.html Unless it's not...

I need to get more photo oriented, especially living around here. I don't carry my phone, it never works here anyway.

That works, and it's a lot less work. I would also check clearance after TDC, and maybe before. When my intake valves were tapping the piston, it wasn't at TDC. The valves were opening and catching up to the piston after it was already traveling down the bore. Edit: Lucky Phil, when I read what you wrote, I took it to mean to lever the valve open during overlap, at/near TDC. Reading it again, I think you probably meant to do it at max valve lift.

I never said I was going to stop riding it.

Yes, I would have to weld a bracket to the frame also. That would be easy other than having to disassemble half of the bike for access. I guess I would rather have to deal with doing the mod than having the potential nightmare of cracking the trans case. Then I would still have to do the brace and feel like an idiot for not doing it sooner. I guess I am kind of pro-active or "insert your own less flattering terminology." I was wondering about removing the bolt from the problem area. Then it could never crack there, but I think I'm too chicken to try it.

Looks pretty easy to fab one up. Maybe make it out of titanium, so the bike has one lightweight part on it!

Thanks, but I didn't really want to know that.

When I see something like that it makes me wonder what other silly things might have been done. I think that round chrome thing might be a horn, not a breather vent. Fotoguzzi can inspect it for us. What I was looking at is right behind the handlebars/clamps. It looks like one of the K&N type breather filters.

So you are saying this bike doesn't have the extra bracing on the lower rear subframe, and the bars that connect to the engine case? I have been hoping I was safe from this failure with the later piece. Does this cracking seem to be happening to bikes that get pushed hard in the corners, causing the frame to flex more? Maybe I should try to stop having so much fun!

When I see something like that it makes me wonder what other silly things might have been done.

I want to see it!

So I just put on some EBC rotors... damn, they're gorgeous. Are the carriers on those rotors aluminum? If so, I bet they're a lot lighter than the steel ones on my RC. That would be a good place to lose some weight, unsprung and rotating.

I've seen that sometime in the past. Lots of great tech information there that you probably wouldn't find anywhere else.