coreytrevor

Is this it? https://www.harpermoto.com/33-gasket-en.html

I don't know if it will help you but if you have one of the compression tester adapters that screw in and has a quick disconnect on the other end, you could use that to pressurize the cylinder from an air hose. Just take out the shrader valve. Even if you don't have a leakdown tester, you would be able to hear air leaking past a valve through the exhaust or intake.

I put aftermarket pistons in my 1150GS. The higher dome plus I had been running advanced cam timing, caused the intake valves to touch the RH piston. You could hear it very clearly. The valves weren't damaged, which really surprised me.

I was wondering why a nut on both ends of the rear axle, then I saw that they double as spools for a rear stand.

Straighten out the problem or the valve? Hopefully not the valve. If bent, check the guide for cracks too.

My strange brain likes puzzles like that. Did the frame start life as an OE frame?

#7 on this diagram.

The threaded hole below the lower starter bolt.

I vote V11 also. I can see the mount on the crankcase for the late style V11 engine/trans subframe. Whatever you call that part.

If you put the oil pump together dry it may not be able to prime, but you said you lubed everything. If you didn't fill the filter it will take a while. If the oil level is dropping as you are doing this it probably just needs more cranking. You won't hurt much by continuing as long as you don't cook the starter. If the starter is cold I would give it a 30 second crank and see what happens.

C-H is good stuff. They still do their unconditional lifetime warranty they have always done. I knew someone whose seat bag came off and got shredded by the wheel. Replaced free with no hassle.

Look at that spotlessly clean throttle body!

I don't have a photo, sorry. It's mounted in the plastic panel below the windshield, centered and right under the windshield. I got the 8mm version, and drilled a hole with a unibit and installed the led without the bezel, with a dab of Goop to hold it. I connected the hot side to the circuit with the pilot lamp, gauge lamps, taillight and license light. I have a led taillight bulb, no pilot or license bulb. The voltage drop to the battery is .2v on the hot side. I grounded it to the fairing bracket, 0 voltage drop to the battery. I considered a dedicated relay off the battery but it tells me what I want to know even with the small voltage drop. I'm using it to let me know if the charging system fails, not really as a voltmeter but more as a warning light.

I wondered also about it being a small end noise, but I don't think it really sounds like that. To get more clues you could disconnect the RH plug wire and ground it, run it on the other cylinder and see if the noise changes. The problem with doing that is that running on one cylinder might create so much extra noise it wouldn't help you. If the noise changes it would indicate piston/wristpin/rod. If not, probably valvetrain

You would have to plug the drainback line also. The pressure would get out that way if you plug the vent. Why exactly? The crankcase, frame tube and drainback line are an enclosed system, of which the only exit is the vent line (directly behind the headstock bearings) which (normally) goes to the airbox. I misunderstood you. When you said crankcase vent I took that to mean the hose from the crankcase vent to the frame. The way you did it is valid.

You would have to plug the drainback line also. The pressure would get out that way if you plug the vent.

Did you look at the lifters when it was apart? Are the valve adjuster screws both showing about the same amount of threads above the nut?

Wow, really loud, you can hear it clearly on the video. It's very consistant, not changing with rpm. It sounds to me like a valvetrain sound, like a valve with a couple millimeters of clearance. So it is just on the RH side?

Not another one already!

I want to know more about the 20+ pound license plate mount that looks like it would lever the rear wheel off the ground in a hard RH turn.

Only unsafe if you are trying to hold the crank from moving. If not, no problem.

I was wondering about that too. It doesn't look like the 2 piece sump of the V11.

I don't think you could hold the crank with the drivetrain and rear wheel if the crank started to turn. There is so much slop and 2 cush drives in the drivetrain. If it started to turn, there is more and more force with each degree of rotation, it's just going to keep going. I agree that if you are EXACTLY at TDC, it shouldn't turn. Just make sure you don't leave a wrench on the crank nut!

I would think the hole serves the same purpose as the cap some shafts have there that will pop out if you over-grease it. If there was too much grease and the shaft hydro?locked and couldn't compress when it needed to I imagine there could be spectacular and instantaneous destruction to the transmission and/or final gearcase.

That's always a problem, potentially dangerous. On the Guzzi, I would pull the rocker arms, then do the leakdown test at BDC.