coreytrevor

Grip tape?

On my bike I also have to back off the "choke" adjustment on the bottom of the RH throttle body or it will hold the throttle open.

I don't agree that it's ok to leave the top nut off. That nut is part of the adjustment/preload of the steering head bearings. When you tighten the lower nut to set bearing preload, you set the preload just slightly less than you want it, then when the top nut is tightened, it pushes the triple clamp down, and lower nut down, taking the slack out of the threads of the lower nut, tightening the bearing preload a bit more. The upper nut/triple clamp/lower nut then all become a solid unit. That's what keeps the preload nut from being able to loosen. I guess with the pinch bolt on the upper clamp you could get away with leaving the top nut off, but I would expect the lower nut to loosen a bit over time and miles.

This kind of made me laugh, because it reminded me of something I read online not long ago about the origin of that line. One of the very few bits of rock trivia trapped in my brain. From Wikipedia: The opening line lyric "raised on promises" echoes a line of dialogue in Francis Ford Coppola's 1963 film, Dementia 13. Referring to another woman, the character Louise says (at minute 22), "Especially an American girl. You can tell she's been raised on promises."

Yeah, I wish that product had voltage parameters for the AGM (those voltage breaks are fine for a flooded lead-acid battery). 13.2vDC just doesn't cut it. I look at it as a charging failure indicator, not so much as an indicator of max charge voltage. If the system starts to get weak or just quits and voltage drops below 13.2, I will still have some capacity left in the battery. That might give me a chance to pull some lighting fuses and make it home, or at least get closer to home. Or if I'm running heated gear and it's too much for the system I will get a warning before the battery is too low to start the bike.

I think you are fine. A lot of bikes with AGM batteries top out at 14 to 14.3v charge voltage. Some charge as high as 14.5 or 14.6v. Was your battery FULLY charged when you saw the 14.2v? If not, it can take a while at rpm to top off the battery and the charging voltage to reach its max, i.e actually riding. I've seen mine take 15+ minutes at 65mph to top out at 14.3 or so. If you can, hook up the voltmeter and go for a highway speed ride.

Would that be an eight into eight then?

I probably wouldn't worry if your voltages are what they are. That's what counts. I did finally put one of these voltage monitors on my bike, it works really well. You could get one and take out your charge bulb. http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkright-eclipse-battery-voltage-monitor.php

The regulator triggers the light, but I can't describe how it knows when to do so. I'm sure someone here can.

That doesn't leave much left in the sump.

I don't know if it helps but I just swapped a 4.5" wheel onto my Rosso Corsa, which came with the 5.5". I reused all the parts from my RC except the bearing spacer inside the wheel, and obviously the wheel itself.

I believe 3 bar, which is 43.5 psi. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

There is a small slot/hole at the bottom engine-trans mating surface.

Visible at the top right of this view of the back of the engine case is the actual crankcase vent that the hose fastens to : It's obviously far too clean inside that bellhousing! Are you trying to make the rest of us feel inferior?

This would work, but very expensive. https://www.amazon.com/Jims-Remote-Supply-Fuel-Injected-Motorcycles/dp/B071YYGKPY Curious why you need to run the bike without the tank. Unlike on a lot of (more modern) bikes, it doesn't seem to get in the way of anything done while tuning.

If it was, would I admit it?

I didn't really expect you to do colors. I was just trying to be demanding and mildly annoying.

The LH coil is missing the hot lead, the R/N wire.(damn nitpickers) And can you please make all the wires the proper colors, with stripes?

Your RH injector needs another wire.

It has to be post-spine. No going back in time! The only one I can think of is the V9, but I'm not into the styling. Maybe if they weren't trying so hard for the retro effect. But then a Stelvio might be cool, if they took about 100 pounds off it.

You will be safe if you turn the screw in until it just touches the piston, as long as it isn't pushing the piston at all. There is a more involved way to set the adjustment to remove as much lever free play as possible, but you have to really know what you're doing or you can end up with locked brakes like you just had.

Brake hoses can fail internally so that the fluid can flow down but can't return. I've seen it happen, but very rarely and I don't think I have seen it on braided stainless lines. The hoses weren't pinched off to stop fluid flow during the servicing, were they? That's definitely not ok to do.

One other important thing to do, to compensate for friction in the suspension, is to get the correct sag number, is to take 2 measurements for each sag number you achieve. You probably need someone to help balance the bike and compress and extend the suspension while doing this. When doing free sag, you want to lift the bike and let it settle back slowly to where it stops dropping, then take a measurement. Then compress the suspension and let it rise slowly back up to where it stops, take a measurement. The sag number is halfway between the 2 numbers. Then do the same thing with the rider on board. It's a lot more important with the front because the forks have a lot of internal friction, more than the rear suspension. If you just take one reading, you are really just measuring the point where friction stopped the up or down movement.

8x1.25mm, length not too critical.

Thanks. I do understand all that. I'm kind of a noob at posting here but not too much of a noob with bikes, having worked on them professionally for almost 3 decades. I do appreciate other peoples input and insights though. BTW, the not sleeping thing was meant in jest.