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coreytrevor

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Everything posted by coreytrevor

  1. The shaft seals don't seem to seal much at all once the bike gets some years/miles on it. You can see the lower ones leak by the fuel residue there. So just washing the bike will likely get water inside the throttle body and possibly into the combustion chamber. I have seen many TPSs on other vehicles with an o-ring seal. I'm sealing it so I can sleep at night again!
  2. I don't like the gap either. It seems like a perfect little well for dirt and water to collect and sit up against the shaft seal. Or more likely get past the seal and act as a nice grinding compound for the shaft and throttle body. I've been meaning to seal it up with something but not sure what. Maybe make a very thin stainless steel plate to fit between the TPS and TB?
  3. I had an FZ09 for a while, same basic bike as the FJ. Yes, ugly but a truly amazing engine.
  4. coreytrevor

    V11 Crossover

    Try Stein-Dinse. The Mistral should be in the low 3's even with the higher shipping from Germany. When I bought my deep sump it was almost $100 cheaper buying from them. Looks like they are out of stock but the one with the O2 port is only a few bucks more. http://www.stein-dinse.biz/Moto-Guzzi/Exhaust-system/Expansion-Boxes/Mistral/Mistral-Cross-over-inox-V11::4916.html
  5. I think they are kind of generic and not spec'd just for the V11.
  6. There is a cone shaped projection on the levers that the rubber slides over. That has to be cut off and a hole drilled to bolt the new piece on. And countersink for the bolt head if you care about that. Your deal is now killed.
  7. $63.85US for the pair, shipped. I'm in. Gonna mount these and see how they do. You do have to do a little work to the levers to fit them.
  8. They have the one with the eccentric also if you want adjustability. I've been planning to do 2 of these.
  9. You could add one of these folding tips to that or a stock pedal to make it harder to break if there's a next time. http://www.guzzitech.com/store/product/gt-eccentric-folding-toe-peg/
  10. Glad to see you are ok enough to be online. That sure isn't pretty though. Let us know how you are doing.
  11. That will probably be a bigger change to your bike list than just about anyone else has ever had all at once!
  12. Do you know if it's lighter than the stocker? I like lightness!
  13. I'm not sure what you want. I can see the photos in Google images but if I open the page the photos are gone. How do I link to that? These are the pages the photos were on. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19547 http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=80481.0
  14. Thanks. It's not bothering me 232 dollars worth, I'll have to wait for an Ebay one.
  15. It should be a 2-prong flasher relay. The bulbs are 10w each so any generic one that's spec'd for that wattage should work. Or if you get one of the ones for use with LEDs, it doesn't matter how many watts the bulbs are. But the advantage of the ones made to work with a certain wattage is that if a bulb goes out they will usually either not flash or flash really fast, so you know a bulb is out. The LED types won't do that.
  16. It does vary with throttle, as you can hear in the second video as well, frequency increases with revs and slowly dissipates at higher revs. Yes, but what I meant was when there is a load on the engine while riding, does the sound change depending on how much or little throttle is applied. The idea is to change throttle position, keeping rpm steady. It's easier in higher gears because playing with the throttle won't change the rpm as quickly, or you can drag the rear brake a bit. You can't really do this in neutral very well. If the sound changes with varying amounts of load on the engine, it tends to indicate the noise is piston/wristpin/big end/mains etc. Something from the piston down. Usually valvetrain and timing chain noises can change with rpm but not just from varying throttle position while rpm stays the same. Did that make any sense?
  17. I found a few of the photos on Google images by googling V11 shift improvement. They are from the Wildguzzi site but they aren't in the thread there anymore. I tried to post them here but... You are not allowed to use that image extension on this community I never noticed you could find missing photos like that before.
  18. Also, while you're in there, if you blueprint the shift mechanism like in Lucky Phil's thread, you won't believe the difference in shifting. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19547 The photos would be a help, maybe LP can provide them?
  19. Yes, it's a different spring that makes the shifter return to center. You'll see how it works soon.
  20. Because under hard braking, the shift arm will swing forward so it can engage the selector wheel, and you can shift! You don't need acceleration, just braking or maybe a really steep downhill.
  21. That would be great, thanks!
  22. Wow, that doesn't sound good to me, though it's hard to tell from a recording like that. I hear a lot of kind of random tappy rattling that makes me think of something in the valvetrain, but is there also a lower frequency heavier thump kind of sound? I heard something heavier toward the end of the second video when the revs were dropping from about 2500 to 2000rpm, but it might just be an anomaly from the recording. I read through the thread but didn't see any mention of whether the sound changes with the amount of load placed on the engine, while riding. If you are riding and playing with the throttle, does the sound change with varying throttle?
  23. You might be able to hear it if it's not an electronic one.
  24. Wondering where did you get your switch from? I don't like the switches being in the wrong place either. I ride multiple bikes and I always have to think before using the signals or I will hit the horn button. Those fittings, one is for the drain in the cap area and the other is the tank vent which goes through the cap into the little grommet and down through a hose to that fitting. Don't remember which is which but it's easy to check. Some people tee them together and run a hose down below the engine/trans. The bad thing doing that is that your tipover valve is gone and if the bike ends up sliding across the pavement you can have gas coming out and a potential fireball. But the tipover valves cause problems too.
  25. Mine is right in front of the relays, but it's zip-tied to the frame so it may be moved slightly from original.
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