coreytrevor

Mine has the carbon rear hugger. With the stock plastic one I think it would have to come off. I slip left hand up behind the shock reservoir and right hand through the triangle of tubes on the LH side of the swingarm. Pop off the rubber cap, chase it around the garage. Slip a regular 10mm combination wrench through the rear, using the box end on the bleeder. Use left hand to help. Lots of room in front of the tire to swing the wrench. Run bleeder hose in under the shock reservoir. Use right hand to help put it on the bleeder fitting. I don't have gigantic hands so that probably helps. Proceed to bleed clutch. Or as stated, remove the swingarm, but that takes a lot longer.

Also, I will let everyone know as soon as it burns up! It's been doing ok so far here in 100 degree weather.

My stock regulator was under the oil cooler, not so much behind. And even though the heads and exhaust are not far away, it seems once the bike is moving more than a few mph the airflow will sweep all the heat to the rear. I guess we can agree to disagree.

I guess I don't understand why the regulator would be exposed to temperatures that high. In the stock position, which I didn't use, it looks to me like the air hitting the regulator would be about the same as ambient outdoor temperature.

I wouldn't take the calipers apart unless the pistons are not moving freely. If you are good about keeping the fluid fresh the calipers can go for many years without needing to be pulled apart. Also, don't lube them with anything. If you do, whatever you use will get into the seals and probably make them swell. Then you will get to rebuild the calipers. What I do is push 1 or 2 pistons out at a time, just past where they normally extend. I use a small brass bristle brush to clean off the junk, and use a 90 degree snap ring plier inside the pistons to turn them so they can be cleaned all the way around. Be careful not to let the pistons come out too far.

The map Meinolf sent me is great. I still need to fill in a lean spot off idle and another between 2700 and 3300 rpm but it runs really well everywhere else. I'm sure you would need small fuel changes even from one seemingly identical bike to another. At highway speeds, if you open the throttle just the tiniest bit more you feel the gain in power. I love when that happens!

I don't know if this helps. BTW, the late style V11 regulator is sourced from Shindengen, I happened to see this in my manual today. Riding with a voltmeter connected to the battery, at highway speeds voltage fluctuates between 14.03 to 14.33 volts. This is with the SH775.

Don't forget to ground the plugs or unplug the coils.

You might want to do a quick compression test if you have a gauge, since it looks like you have fuel and spark.

It sounds like more than one problem. With spark on one cylinder it should still try to run on that cylinder, if the plugs are wet. How old is the fuel? It doesn't take too many months for ethanol fuel to go bad.

They will work either way but if you put the tighter wound end down, the heavier part is lower on the bike.

Starting fluid or carb spray in the intake is a good way to diagnose whether fuel supply is the issue. If it starts for a second and dies you know you are not getting fuel. Probably the easiest way to test that.

The SH775 is SCR. The newer, higher capacity SH847, not sure if SCR or MOSFET.

I have noticed on other bikes that from a cold engine start, the stator cover heats up a lot faster than the other lower end surfaces. I don't know the numbers but it seems the stator must generate a good bit of heat, and it seems like it can't hurt stator lifespan to let it run a little bit cooler.

I just got done installing a series type voltage regulator. It's the Shindengen SH775, intended for a 3 phase, 3 wire stator but it works fine with the full wave, 2 wire stator on the V11. It is rated at 35 amps, more than enough for our bikes. This thread is where I learned about this regulator: http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade-2.html I also used the Triumph link lead, part number T2500676, only about 10 bucks, to hook the regulator up to the bike. The 2 connectors are sealed so that should eliminate a major failure point on these bikes. I cut the 2 connectors off the V11 and soldered the link lead wires to the 4 harness wires and 2 stator leads. The bikes stator leads go to any 2 of the 3 black wires in the 3-wire plug of the SH775. You can use any 2 of the 3 wires, the third is not used. The 2 wire plug on the SH775 is the hot and ground wires, brown being hot and black being ground. Those were soldered to the corresponding wires on the bike. The SH775 doesn't fit where the V11 regulator mounts, so I mounted it up under the tank, at one of the holes that go through the spine. One bolt seems to be enough to hold it but I might make a bracket later. The big difference between this series type regulator and the stock shunt type is that the shunt type keeps the stator at full output at all times and just shorts any extra current to ground, turning in into heat. This makes the stator run a lot hotter than necessary and probably shortens its life. It also puts extra load on the engine to generate power that just gets shorted to ground. The series regulator makes the stator produce only as much power as the system needs at the time. The regulator and stator will run much cooler and a small amount of horsepower is freed up. Things seem to be working fine. The system breaks even just off idle and voltage tops out at 14.2 well below 2000 rpm. I installed led headlight and taillight bulbs at the same time so that will lower the breakeven rpm. My idle speed also went up about 200 rpm, showing the reduced drag on the engine.

Those type of controllers just fool the ECU into thinking the engine is cooler than it is so the ECU richens the mixture. The bad thing is that the fueling will be richer across the board, adding fuel to help the lean spots but making other spots too rich. It's just a primitive approach that probably creates as many problems as it solves.

Never owned one, but worked on and ridden quite a few. They always struck me as a giant scooter but with manual shifting. Good bike, just very appliance-like.

AKA the world's biggest scooter!

Not only that, but I had the MPH risers mounted, still without the 6mm bolt and they still stayed put even with the extra leverage.

I take off the shifter and linkage too. Don't forget to disconnect the battery ground first. And you can slightly loosen the breather oil return fitting on the sump so you can move the hose further out of the way.

I've been running the stock clip-ons without the 6mm bolt for a while, to be able to change the bar angle. They are very solid as long as the pinch bolt is tight. I think the bolt is just there as a locator so the bars end up where the factory wanted them.

Whenever I change pads, I push pistons out 1 or 2 at a time and brush the junk off with a small brass bristle brush. I never had luck with just the spray cleaner, the junk is stuck on pretty well. I like the piston to look nice and shiny. If you just shove the pistons back in for the new pads, all the junk gets forced in past the seals causing the pistons to stop moving freely and the pads to drag. Then you have to pull the calipers apart and clean or rebuild them. I don't bother with cleaning between pad changes.

That is my plan also. I have a 4Runner, 3RZ engine with waste spark and I'm watching the iridium plugs to get an idea when to swap them to opposite cylinders to even the wear. I want to try plugs like these when mine wear out. They seem like the best of all worlds for waste spark systems. I like how they unshroud the spark with the 2 fine electrodes. http://densott.com/ luhbo, I bet these would work well in your dual plug bike, and last almost forever. I don't know if they have a plug close to what your application requires.

Be careful, Dunlop max pressure spec on the Roadsmart is 42 psi!

Sounds awesome, add me to the jealous list.