coreytrevor

That's correct, I'm running BPR6EIX plugs. I didn't really do any back to back comparison, I just did it when I got the bike as part of a lot of maintenance. I think I opened the gap .004 to .006" over stock. I have read that iridium plugs can actually work worse unless you open the gap, I don't have a way to test this but I want a larger gap if I can have it. I should probably try even larger gaps to see what happens. Is it possible to harm the coil if you go too far? I wouldn't mind finding better coils and gapping at .040 to .044" as done on some vehicles that come stock with iridium plugs. Another detail, regarding running a waste spark/dual lead coil like luhbo runs, what I understand is that with an iridium plug, the plug only really has a benefit on the plug where the voltage is jumping from center to ground electrode. The second plug is firing from ground to center electrode. I have also seen on my vehicles with waste spark and iridium plugs that on half of the plugs the ground electrode erodes away before the iridium center does. The iridium lasts a long time. Regarding Tunerpro, I am a complete beginner and could really only be helpful with the absolute basics. There is a good tutorial of the basics on Wildguzzi. http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=73938.0 Marty, thanks for that link about changing valve timing, I hadn't seen that before. Meinolf seems to know everything about tuning these bikes and I can usually understand what he writes about. Also thanks for the help with the plug caps, I haven't decided what to do there yet.

Was it the brake?

I agree with the Caswell coating, I think mine has that. But I would consider trying to un-swell a swollen tank a bit first, fearing that the water already in the nylon will be sealed in by the sealer. That would be optional, depending on the patience of the owner. What about, after getting ALL the fuel out, leaving the tank in a hot car under a blanket, out of the sun, for x number of days to try to accelerate the process?

I just put a set of Tarozzi clip-on risers on mine. They are nicely made, give a couple mounting options and adjustable bar angle you don't get with a lot of others. They have different heights and can go over or under the triple. They also have a lot of room with the LeMans fairing for LeMans people. The price was pretty good too. I got the tall ones because I am old and never got along with low bars even when I was not old. I will try to post some pics if I can make it happen. http://www.fastfromthepast.com/clip-ons

27mm

Would a couple dabs of superglue in the cylinder be appropriate to keep the sensor in place? I would use this. It will glue almost anything. I used it to make the spoke rims on my 650GS tubeless. http://eclecticproducts.com/products/amazing-goop/amazing-goop-all-purpose.html

That doesn't seem possible. Why didn't I think of Sertao?

There is/was a clip on the bottom of the swingarm to hold the brake hose, it looks like yours might not be clipped in. Really nice looking bike.

Add the Suzuki GT380 Sebring.

Yes, you have to hit those at at least 70, if you lift your feet off the pegs you can keep your rear from lifting off the seat. Except in heavy crosswinds.

I was up the 6 to Benton, then the 120 Northwest almost to the 395, and back. I avoid the freeway like the plague. I will post something up about the Shorai once it's installed. The real test will be in the winter.

I went for a 130 mile ride after reassembling the whole bike, took one break in the middle of nowhere, came home, shut off the bike, went to restart it to lower the idle and the 7 year old battery open-circuited. If it had happened one start earlier I would have been badly stranded. So I ordered a Shorai, should be about 8 pounds lighter.

That's the one I have. It works.

I'm old enough to remember using microfiche cards and readers to look up parts. They were about index card sized, with micro images of parts diagrams that were blown up by the reader to readable size. One bike model per card.They went out of style when the system went onto computers. Google it if you haven't seen it.

Toyota Avalon, Tacoma(is that a special place?), Sequoia, Tundra... Norge(Norway) Suzuki GT380 Sebring, GT550 Indy, GT750 LeMans.

Honda Pacific Coast PC800

I borrowed the idea from Scud's Alps thread. I had a Kawasaki Bushmaster 90 G3TR when I was a kid. I'm assuming bush refers to Australia. Anyone?

That would make a fun thread. Cars/trucks and bikes.

MartyNZ: Thanks for the detailed info on the operation of the system. Your knowledge of electricity is greater than mine. I guessed that less resistance would mean more energy for the spark but if you say no, I believe you. I suppose that also means that cutting the resistance in half won't allow a larger plug gap. I have taken care of all the tune-up stuff, and TPS and CO trim settings. Also using Tunerpro, I have a bin file Meinolf sent me which was very good but I have added some fuel in 2 spots in the map to get rid of lean spots. Also planning on buying a air fuel datalogger to optimize the fuel map. And waiting on Mike Rich to make more pistons. Also I want to advance cam timing about 4 degrees to pull some top end power down into the midrange. I have fun optimizing all the little things I can because you run out of big things pretty fast. luhbo: I like Iridium plugs, with a slightly larger gap. I've had good results with them, a little bit better fuel mileage on a number of vehicles, and they last almost forever. They reduced the lean surge on my 1150GS. But I never see them without resistor, that would be too easy.

Those look good but I guess I have to order one to see if I can take it apart.

4mm x.7, length probably 17mm or so.

That makes sense. So for me the resistor caps are superfluous, I'm not worried I will accidentally put in the wrong plug. And after I'm dead the new owner will have to fend for himself.

That's how I finalized the adjustment. I got it close then played with loosening and tightening the screws in tiny increments until it was right. But then if you opened and closed the throttle harder or softer you would see a different reading, so who knows what the exact right way to do it is.

The caps do unscrew and the wire is stranded, copper I guess.

That's what I understand, originally for radio and tv interference. Then later the electronics on the vehicles didn't like the interference either.