coreytrevor

That's the plan, non-resistor caps. But I can't have red wires and black caps! The electricity might not flow properly! I do understand why the resistors are there. I have a background of lots of years working on bikes professionally so most of the basic stuff is stored somewhere in my brain, if I can find it in there.

Thanks. I was clear on the R means resistor part. I did find a Champion cap without resistor, but only sold in the UK and not in stock. I guess I'm the only one on the planet who wants them. Wouldn't be the first time that happened. http://www.gsparkplug.com/1x-champion-spark-plug-cap-pro0u-r.html?___SID=U

Dumb question maybe, but did you put in the cup that sits in the pressure plate that the front of the pushrod pushes on?

I would stick a chunk of copper wire in to replace them. Done that before with the solid NGK caps. It seems like more resistance in the circuit could mean a weaker spark. Or at least you could run a slightly bigger plug gap for a bigger spark. I just get weird ideas and I like to do small incremental improvements thinking they will add up over time.

On mine the reading would change if you turned a screw even the slightest bit.

Yes, the muffler tips don't get hot enough to burn off carbon. TPS setting will affect fueling at all throttle positions. CO setting more so at smaller throttle openings. And yes, it helps a lot to get these right. The system is open loop, no sensing of exhaust gases. The fueling is determined by the settings in the ECU and the input from the sensors.

That sounds like an option. But why do we have resistor plugs and resistor caps?

Hi, Does anyone know of any non-resistor spark plug caps available anywhere. I would like to find some that look similar(red) to the originals. Or does anyone know if any of the red NGK ones, such as the TB05EM have removable resistors? A lot of the NGK solid, non rubbery caps can be taken apart but I don't know about these rubber types. I'm running NGK BPR6EIX plugs and don't want resistors in the plugs and caps both. The caps on the bike are 5k ohm but I don't know if they are the originals. Thanks

And the amount of resistance felt at the clutch lever should tell you whether you are compressing clutch springs or just the spring in the master cylinder.

My tank has one major bubble under a decal. I popped it with a pin but it comes back. I think the coating probably missed a spot or two. The tank hits the simon cowl but goes right past it. I just want it to be less expanded.

If like you said, the bike stalls even if in neutral, it seems like it's not the clutch. Even if you can't disengage the clutch, it should still be able to idle in neutral. Does it jump forward when it stalls or stall like you switched off the key.

That's good to know. I have read of Ducati nylon tanks shrinking back after sitting with no fuel for a while. I considered trying that with my V11 but since it is coated inside maybe it wouldn't help. Would the sealer on the inside and the paint on the outside keep the water trapped in the nylon?

Nothing wrong with riding a tractor, I love mine. And they are way better and more fun than those other 2 wheeled tractors!

He just got it.

I agree with the brake making the noise. Easiest way to check, take out 2 caliper bolts, remove caliper, see if noise goes away. I don't think bearings or anything internal would sound like that.

The big GSs take a bit of crap on this site but they really are fun bikes to ride. I still have my 1150 I bought new and put 115k miles on. I bet a few members here have GSs but don't put them in their bike list. Have a blast over there! And be careful.

That was me. Norton kept deleting Guzzidiag whenever I tried to open it. I had to shut off the firewall and antivirus. Don't know if there is a fix for it.

This can be really helpful if your forks are harsh because of excessive high speed compression damping, like a lot of bikes. Running lighter fork oil in the compression side will reduce both the high and low speed damping. Then you can dial in more low speed damping with the adjuster to bring that back to where you want it. This gives you a small amount of adjustability you don't have with most forks. If compression and rebound damping are in both sides, changing oil viscosity changes both compression and rebound damping. I haven't ridden the Marzocchi forks, this may not be any help if they got the damping right. I only know how the bike rides with Ohlins.

Pay attention to that but don't worry about a millimeter or 3 of difference.

That is amazing. Thanks.

What the heck is that building? Do the doors slide on that concrete structure?

The level is what counts. The air volume in the fork acts as part of the spring as the fork compresses, more when the fork is deeper into the travel. Raising the oil level can help with bottoming and brake dive without making the fork feel harsher.

You should put some air in that back tire. Looks good.

Wow, that carb! Looks like it was full of water for a long time. When they are that bad they are often not worth trying to save.

The circuit that powers the gauge lights, city light, taillight and license light looks good, not too much load on it. It goes through 2 fuses and the ignition switch and about a mile of wiring so you would have to check the voltage drop. I will post a thread on the install when the thing shows up from the UK. Edit: I realized that some of the non-US V11s might have a switch for the headlights and running lights. In that case you would have to tap into the circuit before the switch.