badmotogoozer

I used the same stuff to seal the cases on my '70 Triumph. 12 yrs later and still no leaks. Possibly a record for an old Triumph! cheers, Rj PS - we've got a place out here called Pacific Fasteners - has all metric bolts you could ever want (SS). Just bring in my pick list and I've got exactly what I want. I can't imagine you don't have something similar in Edmonton... We are a "metric" country after all...

I think you are correct. I'm a Man U fan and I would have beaten you senseless. And then bought you a beer. Rj

When did OCC start building Guzzi's? Rj

Now I'm confused... I took A to be the footpeg, B to be the shifter, and C to be the trans coupler. Paul seems to figure the letters are the connecting points on the bits... I think we're both saying the same thing though... if you follow... Rj

Just a guess, but perhaps they expect you to use the threaded rod with the eyelets (stock connection) to go between B & C? Rj

Man U had a fantastic game!! Their little bastard was balls out brilliant! I've always cheered for Manchester so I'm plugging for them to win. (Have I mentioned that people have made a lot of money betting against me? ) Rj

Thanks Docc! That's the bit of info I needed wrt rotating the TPS for the 150mV. After reading everything I could find on the subject JeffinOhio's method makes the most sense. It also seems that it will get the most repeatable results - which is what I'm after since I want a known and repeatable baseline before I drop $500 on a dynotune for my PC. cheers, Rj

Good lord man! You're not supposed to put Redline in your kids! Rj

Just installed mine last weekend. My experience: Started with the outside bolts, got a couple in loosely - same experience, trouble with the centre four. Realized the center 4 were the important ones, started with them. All four in loosely (about 1cm from tight) Went to the outside bolts and with a wee bit of wiggling got one in each side loosely. Then all the rest went in easy peasy. No grinding. '01 Sport. Rj

I'd say you've answered your own question Nogs. After all, you bought the Buell to play with... Now take it out and play with it! If you break it, you've still got the V11 to ride. You're not likely to punch it into a wall, most likely any crash would result in similar damage and similar cost to fix - possibly cheaper with the Buell with the sliders and all. (You wouldn't just toss the V11 because of a little road rash would you?) Rj

Hey Nose, I'm doing this same thing now for the first time. After getting everything else sorted on the "problem child" I've found my TPS totally out of whack. In my readings of how to set it and balance, the consensus of "people who know" is that nobody really knows what the hell to do with the bleed screws. One says to close them and leave them there, another says 1/2 turn out, another says 3/4 and one more says 1 full turn exactly. All I would consider reliable sources. All claim result is a perfect running bike. I've also got a question re: setting the 150mV. If it's way off, how is it adjusted? I'm assuming one loosens the TPS unit itself and rotates it to get 150mV, as there is nothing else connected. Hopefully there is an actual consensus on this... Even among respected dealers there is no consensus on how one balances the TB's. Seems everybody and their dog has written proceedures that differ greatly. Even here advice from various members differs greatly (from pages long instructions to "fiddle with the white knob while riding until it feels right"). Best as I can figure, do it a few times and figure out for yourself what works... cheers, Rj

No room on a spine frame Guzzi. Can't see it being possible on a V11. Rj

Everybody's had Paris. Oh, you meant the city... Rj

... now a Google video with route map on Google maps. Turn the sound waaaayyyyy up!! Rj http://bhendrix.com/wall/Gmaps_GVideo_Mashup_Rendezvous.html

Yup -you are right Nogs - see post just above (tried it last night). The stuff we used to use at the hospital sealing up brass fittings (non compression) in anaesthetic gas machines and the hyperbaric unit was a clearer liquid. Within an hour it would be hard enough to chip away - looked like thick red candy coating. I remember calling it Loctite... but then it was a long time ago... I've killed many, many brain cells since. Rj

Using a light oil or even WD40 will help keep the tap from binding. WRT an earlier note, I left some red Loctite out overnight and although it did set a bit, no where near what I remembered. Certainly not chip-able... Leaves me wondering what the heck that red stuff was we were using by the gallon... But then that was eight years ago and I don't remember last week real well... good luck Ben! Rj

Yup - all it's missing is the required drill bit. Can't quite read what size is needed (top corner of package). IIRC a 1/4" bit is real close. I'll see if I can find out exactly. Rj

Funny - when I've used red and green, I've always had to chip away the hardened excess. Guess I was dreaming. I've used literally litres of the stuff professionally. Theoretically it shouldn't harden - but it does. Try it. **edit** by no means am I saying not to wash it out with cleaner. A good way is to spray it on a Q-tip and muck out the hole. Makes less mess... Rj

Ben, not sure as I've not been in your spot, but if you want to ride leak free, try a slightly longer bolt - you might be able to pick up some deeper threads until the heli kit arrives. Can't make it any worse... and a sight better than loctite threads. Timeserts are greatly superior to Heli, but in this case a heli will be fine. Use a bit of red or green loctite on the helicoil when you install it and make sure it is dry before putting the bolt in. Keeps the helicoil from backing out again when you take the bolt out. cheers, Rj

You're welcome, Bob! I'll shoot you a "head's up" next time I'm about to post another lay up. Rj

You were not misunderstood - at least not by MOST of us. Correct on the surface area. The pod filters have a very small, in comparison, surface area that at best negates any performance gain. Strangling, if you will. Ratchet's precious study is not applicable here. Jim is very correct in descrbing the MAJOR flaw in said study. They begin by claiming to have tested to a particular standard. Yet if one is to actually read the standard they will find that only a select few of the tests were performed (or at least reported) in the report. Any researcher worth his salt would immediately be suspicious of any such study. Especially when one has a hard look at what the graphs are actually saying, and how they are presented. Keep waving that study in the air Rat - it carries no weight, even if the findings are completely as expected. It is hardly definitive proof, as you have extended it to be. You have even gone so far as to extrapolate claims that even the study itself does not claim. Once again, if it suits your purpose, it must be God's honest truth, but if not supportive of your preconceived notions, then it can only be bunk. Please. Rj

My that was easy! Point to Bob. Think I'll stick to answering them... Rj

OK. Enough stumper seeking! This one should be quick, only hope it lasts longer that the last quiz I posted... Make, model, year, capacity please. Rj

Until "recalibration" is required. Like when I used to work in a hospital, we ran between buildings through the service tunnels. Lots of pipes etc running along the ceiling. After working there for years, got used to knowing that my 6'2 cleared everything. Then bought new comfy shoes which happened to be about 3/4" higher than I had. First day I had them I knocked myself out in the tunnel and carved a nice gash in my scalp. Luckily I was already in a hospital... It's those "recalibration" moments us high folk dread! Rj

The only trike I've ever liked (wheels rear type) was the one Jesse James "Monster Garaged" out of an old Peterbuilt. Massive diesel engine, trans, drive wheels and a single wheel out front. Strap a bit of a cage to sit side saddle and blast down the road. Also about the only JJ product I've gotten a hoot out of! Now That's a trike! Rj