JesterGrin_1

I am sorry but what bushing are you referring to? Do you have a picture of what said bushing should look like? And what material are they made of currently?

This will scare me if people did not get it and you had to explain it lol.

If this is such a big problem both in the stand point of mechanical failure and of what could be personal injury has not Moto Guzzi made this right under warranty? Or have they simply not been sued for a faulty product as of yet?

Thank You for the offer Scud but I can wait for the ones on the bike when it shows up. Just my ADD showing lol. Door Knob Tooth Puller, Dentist lol. Just a funny Ha Ha lol.

Heck with my physical problems I hope to keep it down to one time a day lol. On second thought I have not see crash bars for the LeMans? Maybe some with small wheels lol.

Or heck jump on Interstate 10 east to Florida and check out the Keys and ride back.

Come on knowing that Moto Guzzi would replace the cases with new ones back in the day under warranty must have given some indication that it would have been a bit of a pain lol. But hey you are having fun.

I am sorry but I am still a little set back to the fact you ride this time of year in Minnesota lol.

Ok well when I eventually get one of these in my sweaty hands what I plan on doing is maybe making a new set of course with a hand saw and file and drill press lol. And then fitting a piece of HDPE Delrin to the outside by using a groove just as thick as the head guard to slide into and retain them with a couple of through bolts stainless steel of course. That way the HDPE Delrin will give a bit more space between the important parts of the head and spark plug and resistor and yet be a replaceable wear item. I know the material comes in Black and White but by request of a Door Knob Tooth Puller I am going to look into Red lol. On a side note I have seen some with those round things like the sport bikes use but I really feel they look out of place on these types of Moto Guzzies and they look butt ugly lol.

Dang I remember seeing something on this on another informative MG maintenance site. They showed replacing the O ring and using a bit of RTV on the clean sealing surfaces before reassembly?

Very nifty I have to say. What is even more wild is that it came from NZ. I mean think about it people from all of the world can now communicate almost immediately. I am sure given the age of most members here that probably used a slide rule in school that we never foresaw this coming in our lifetimes. And come on a home Guzzi mechanic over doing something. Never

If a person that currently builds airplanes says we might be overthinking this then we are probably overthinking this into the stratosphere lol. Simply because as we all know it is the very nature of a airplane builder to overthink things to start with.

I went here http://thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/workshop_manual_v11_nl.pdf

I would like to say one thing about Antiseize. Use it sparingly as it will migrate. I would also check fasteners when using this product a few times to make sure they are tight. I tend to use LocTite. As there are many grades available that will not only help with corrosion but also help maintain torque. For head studs I like that copper stuff that comes in a can which helps keep down migration of oils by the threads. When putting these types of crank cases together and to help maintain correct bearing crush I like Gasgacinch.

This makes me think about the supplemental ground that many of us have run from the voltage regulator to the engine block. I wonder if it would be better to ground the regulator to the steel spine frame instead? Sorry for straying off-topic. Yes it would. Steel is usually better. Or is that More Better.

So it looks like heads will need to be freshened up around 50,000 miles?

Thank You for the information. I guess I should be looking for Sport and not just LeMans? Also Thank You one and all. Good information.

To be honest it is a Motorcycle lol. If someone really wants it they will take it. But what you are trying to prevent is mainly someone wishing to take it for a joy ride. So there are several things you can do to help prevent this. Brake disc locks are available that simply go through one of the cooling holes of the brake disc and locks on preventing it from rolling. The downside is they are pretty easy not to notice so you will have to remember it is on there lol. And of coarse there are those rubber coated cable locks that are available and probably every home improvement store. You can snake them through the wheels and forks or rear swing arm and if you get one long enough you could snake it around a fairly unmovable object. And of coarse you could locate a small kill switch in the electrical system. But someone else on the forum that is good with wiring would have to help you with this set up. Those are the pretty cheap routs. As of course you can go up from there with GPS systems that will keep your motorcycle located if it is stolen. But I am sure they are not cheap but I could very well be wrong.

Since you have the valves out I will tell you an easy way to improve flow and reduce hot spots that will help reduce chances of pre ignition (PING). Chuck the intake valve into a drill press or if one must you can mount a 3/8ths drill that will enable you to spin the valve. Take a fine file and file the back side of the valve head to a smooth transition to close to the seating area of the valve. If this is hard to see just simply go by an automotive parts store and purchase some fine valve lapping compound and I forget what it is called but it is a stick with a rubber suction cup on the end. Place the valve in the guide with some motor oil on the stem and put some valve lapping compound on the face of the valve that meets the seat and put some pressure on it and spin it back and forth and you will get a bright ring all the way around the valve and the seat. Or you should if everything is correct. Okay for the Heat Riser parts round off the corners of the face of the head of the valves outer perimeter . A nice smooth round off. Do this for both the intake valve and the exhaust valve. And before you ask it is not needed to do the back side of the exhaust valve but if you like you can do so. But the main advantage is flow into the combustion chamber through the intake valve. While the rounded off of the corners of the face of the valve reduce sharp areas that may become overheated to the point that they could cause pre Ignition. As for the face of the exhaust valve it will help the exhaust gases to go around the exhaust valve and exit As for valve guide seals many will recommend PC seals for the intakes and stock seals for the exhaust. The reason for this is the PC Seal will seal better for the intake valve thus keeping the fuel charge as pure as possible thus increasing BTU's in the combustion process. The stock exhaust valve seal is so it will allow a bit of more oil allowed to the stem of the exhaust valve to help aid in cooling of the exhaust valve. I could go into further aspects of porting heads but doing this can get someone into trouble real fast lol. But I will state that if you are bored you can smooth out the exhaust passage as smooth as possible as this will help increase exhaust speed thus help increase exhaust scavenging as much as possible. Do not re-contour anything. As it may look good but that does not mean it will flow good in the right areas lol. Sorry if this was long winded. Just remember an Engine is in its simplest forms is an Air Pump. So any modifications that will help aid the engine with moving air will help the efficiency of said engine.

It will be a 2002 Moto Guzzi V11 LeMans.

V11 LeMans Gustafsson +5 VS MRA Windshield +3? Looking for some feed back on these two windshield designs for the V11 LeMans and some pictures of course would be great? I am short at 5'10" and since I plan to take some longer trips is there a better windshield design for doing such things? Thank You as always.

1. The Guards are designed to be sacrificial in a slide, protecting the engine. Bending, scraping or snapping a guard absorbs energy that you don't want transferred to the cylinder head. So you want guards to be weaker than adjacent expensive parts. I understand this. I threw an idea out at Docc so before I throw it on the forum I will see how hard he laughs lol. 2. The valve cover screws are all the same length. If you made a guard that had longer screws, there is a chance that someone may fit a short screw in your guard and a long screw somewhere else. This could mean a leaky valve cover as the short screw strips threads, and the long screws bottom on fins without clamping the cover. Ok you have me as I tend to take things like this for granted in that people would check these things before torquing things down of which in general I should not do. I mean heck it is only 4 bolts lol.

Well I have to thank everyone for the great information on the Moto Guzzi and the needed Oils as we all know Oil is the life blood of machines. As I have been informed I need to rethink how I do things lol. As I would tend to change the transmission and differential fluids every other oil change whether it needs it or not. But with these new synthetics it is probably no longer needed to change these oils every 5 or 6OOO miles?

Docc Thank You for the picture as it helps me visualize it before I get the moped in my garage. . But it does raise some questions that confuse me a bit. And that would be why use what appears to be factory length bolts to mount the head guards as what is left of the head guard to mount them seems pretty thin for something that if the bike is dropped would have to withstand some pretty heavy loads. Especially if the bike is moving. What would be wrong in leaving the head guards at a full 3/8 th's (9mm) Thick at the center two bolt holes and clearance the outer two mounting bolt locations for correct fit up and use the needed length corresponding bolt lengths needed for the application? Also I know we spoke about this but even though they are a little wider than factory head guards are they wide enough to protect the head and components? Just some questions from the unknowing. I know some things are meant for BLING but others are for Function and then BLING.

But as mentioned since I know pretty much nothing about the Moto Guzzi V11 I am trying to figure out the best places to purchase products and what products I should be looking at to improve the Moto Guzzi V11 in spots it may need upgrading and or improve response such as the suspension for my weight and cargo carrying capacity. And yes I have been reading so much I needed to go out and purchase thicker reading glasses or it is just simply age lol.