PJPR01

And watching Charlie Sexton play alongside Dylan just makes it even more enjoyable!

Thanks Speedfrog! I'm guessing that's quite a bit smaller than my Norge panniers..will have to find the specs on them. Less gear...travel light (er)!

Well, that's cool to see they are expanding the offerings. Center stand looks reasonable...Side cases are just as expensive for a new V100 as they are for a 2008 Norge! I wonder what is the liter capacity of those side cases... Bike looks really good!

It will be great to see a new V100 in person. A Guzzi friend currently riding a V7 Racer here in Houston has a V100 in Green ordered from AF1...will ride up I hope with him to see it when it's ready to be picked up. He mentioned March as a possibility...let's hope so! Will make for a good excuse for a ride to see a new bike and visit with the folks up there. I may end up tempted to place an order!

Oh my…quite delicious! Feeling a bit peckish now watching this!!

This is one of those cases where I probably should have not touched the TPS since I didn't have any issues, no cough prior to deciding to check the TPS setting...it was the 1 step I had never done in the Tank Off Checklist...but unfortunately when I set it to the recommended 0.157 at full close, and buttoned everything up again, that's when my cough appeared for the first time. Anyway, hopefully I'll be able to solve it with checking everything again. Last night I checked again some items and I found an interesting item that may have been overlooked before and that was the left hand side spark plug wire wasn't entirely plugged in all of the way to the ignition coil, so I'm wondering if that will help once I get it all buttoned up again.

Thanks G…Yes the filter was replaced a few years ago…all flowing smoothly. I installed not long ago a new fuel downspout as well, new fuel sending unit, new valve gaskets after a valve adjustment, I mean everything was running great with no issues or leaks or coughs until I decided to mess with the TPS setting just to see if that would make it run even better. It’s got a new TPS potentiometer now, soon new plug wires , and hopefully reconditioned injectors once I find a reliable place near by. I wonder if somehow cleaning the housing of the TPS allowed some gunk to clog up something but I don’t see how as it looks like a closed unit. Anyway…more patience…while I’ve got everything off I may install the clutch line extension described by Scud a while back as I have access to it easily enough now with tank and air box off. fun fun fun!!!

Hendrix, Crosby, Dylan...imagine if they had done a concert together! Psychedelic!!

Thanks Randy/Pressure, I'm going to check again every electrical and fuel related connector as well after another conversation with Gstallons. After taking off the tank, airbox this morning I did find that the thin rubber venting tube from the bottom of the gas tank was pinched in hard behind the starter, completely flattened, so will make a new one. Will be taking out the fuel injectors and getting them cleaned/reconditioned as well as cleaning the throttle bodies until they are pristine with a new Colgate soft brush toothbrush and some cleaner. Also have a new set of spark plug wires coming just in case. Hopefully will make some progress in the next couple of weeks once the parts arrive. Much appreciate all the ideas and help here from everyone and special thanks to Gstallons for spending time on the phone with me as well.

Thanks again Docc…Yup I did that again as well this morning before our session with GStallons and still sitting at 0.157 fully closed and all items disconnected, high idle screw loosened and not touching the idle cam, and 4.78 at WOT.

Spent a good hour with GStallons today, we made some good progress, and the bike will idle stably now, but anything beyond that and it's still not operating well. After our session today, I did check the resistance on my original black plug wires and one is at 4.50 and one at 5.00. They are only a couple of years old as well. I also tried one of my new red NGK plug wires that I had made a while back, and both of those have similar resistance at 5.10, so as far as I can tell, with checking the wire resistance by themselves and also while hooked up to the coil (testing ground on the coil and positive end at the end of the plug wire), I'm not seeing any major discrepancy... Now I'm wondering did one of my ignition coils possibly go bad...in all of this work with the TPS...seems unlikely but who knows at this point. Spark plugs look good, still nice and brown, not sooty after letting it idle for about 1/2 hour today (with fan on!). I may have to rip the tank off and methodically check for any blockage in tubing anywhere or anything may have become disconnected...frankly I'm just mystified how this TPS can cause such a change in running behavior, but I guess the bike is very sensitive. Thankfully my CARC bikes don't have this setup...they're much easier to set electronically and balance the throttle bodies.

It’s coughing up a storm. Just for kicks I put new plugs in again…now it’s racing, instead of stumbling at idle…bloody schizophrenic Scura! I’m going to leave it alone for a day… Thanks both…will call G in the morning after a good overnight cooling down!

Thanks again G…I’ve got the feeler gauge set at 0.002 and am using that to make sure I’ve got clearance on both sides of the idle screws. Where I’m struggling is getting the bike to idle high enough with both idle screws not touching, linkage disconnected and Air screws backed out 1 full turn and high idle screw just letting the cam set to nudge. The idle is just too low to keep it running under those conditions so, I end up having to find a way around it to get it warmed up enough to check CO trim and when doing the other adjustments, Somewhere in the middle of all of that the bike still coughs. I’m going to try again tonight…turn my head sideways and cough….maybe the bike has a hernia! Ha ha!

You are 100% correct...the only epiphany I have had so far is that apparently I'm missing something or I have a wandering TPS even after snugged down and triple verified, but I'm patient enough to go thru it again and again until I get it right. I'd like to address the building of a small allen wrench with a 120 degree angle and a gear drive on it so I could just insert it and move a dial back and forth to turn that bloody RHS idle screw...it's a royal PITA to do it in such small increments. I'm also realizing that I would enjoy this a bit more if I had a moto lift, but my garage space is too valuable to put another device in there at the moment between the sports car, 3 motorcycles, 4 bicycles, 2 unicycles and a few other toys!

Fully laden? Off you go!

Mind if we call you Bruce?

Thanks Gstallons…I have your write up as well as a reference! Fully aligned on the 0.157 as the TPS volt reading with the throttle plate fully closed. That’s done now!

Danke sehr Meinolf and Docc...you are both 100% right (as usual!). The learning continues here in the well illuminated Houston garage! Indeed, late last night I was able to loosen the right hand high idle screw and sure enough that enabled the throttle body to close completely...so when I read the voltmeter again it was then sitting at approx 0.100 less than before when I thought it was fully closed. Reset everything to 0.157mv, snapped it a few times, came back to 0.157 and at WOT was registering 4.78...so that's a good sign! I proceeded a few more steps, got it started again (it did sound smoother) but it struggles to idle without some inputs. After getting it to stabilize and warm up I checked again the CO Trim, sitting at +20, so that seems fine (maybe I should try +26), air bleed screws are 1 full turn out, high idle screw is just "nudging" the cam, and both LH and RH idle screws are not touching (0.02 feeler guage slips in just fine). Will get at it again this afternoon at a break. So much fun!!

80CX: Got it now, I fully understand what you're referencing now. Ok, no issues on this side, it's got about 1/2 inch of thread going into the black threaded cup...all good there! I figured it was just as easy to spin the rod off, even took advantage to put a little white grease into the threaded plastic cup to make it a bit easier to turn. Luckily I know this whole cough is related to the TPS setting, since the bike was running great after I had done all of the other work a few months ago and had never had a cough since I bought the bike back in 2016, I just had the need to tinker with this last piece to see how it was done as the manual TPS adjustment is so different and somewhat archaic compared to my two other CARC bikes where we can reset it via Guzzidiag. Good learnings all the way around playing with this and I feel good about putting a new TPS sensor on as it certainly looks like an original one there now, plus I was able to clean out all of the crud that gets into that TPS housing reservoir. Hopefully I'll have good news to report shortly this week once I get the adjustment done and time for a ride sometime during the week. Thanks all...much appreciated!

Ok...I'm intrigued enough to head back out to the garage again to take a blow torch, I mean screwdriver to the high idle screw tonight and then re-connect the Casper harness and see if the 0.157 has changed once the screw is backed out enough...will pay attention again to the right hand idle screw. The good news is I've become quite adept at contorting myself sideways to get that little allen wrench into the RHS idle screw...nothing is impossible now. I can even slip a 0.02 feeler gauge in there to make sure it's truly not touching. If this solves it...let me know where to send a bottle of your choice of fine liquor!

Ok, I'll take another crack at the upward facing high idle screw...hopefully it budges w/o breaking anything and that solves it...it is the 1 step I haven't done. 80CX100: Many thanks for the comments as well. My CO is set at +10, it was at +10 before as well, I took it to zero in one of the iterations here and it ran much worse, so I put it back to +10 via Guzzidiag. I suppose I could experiment and put it +20...easy enough to try! My air screws were 1 turn out before, and again now also 1 turn out. I tried it 2 times rotated out on both, but 1 turn seemed better at this point. I've had a bit of a revelation writing this...I did watch my Carbtune with both airscrews completely removed (you can hear a lot of hissing, but it's interesting to see....my RHS was sucking a bit more until I balanced later on with the linkage connector/white plastic square, so that maybe then the high idle screw is the culprit. Vacuum ports are both connected via hoses, not plugged, so all good there as I had the tank off a few months ago to replace the intake rubbers, clean throttle bodies, do the valve adjustment and ensure the airbox/new filter and all hoses were good and properly connected and snugged up. Even took the time to sand and paint my battery tray...not that anyone sees it but me! I'm not sure I understand what is meant by throttle linkage being indexed? Can you elaborate a bit? The throttle releases nice and smoothly, no catches at all. Nothing physically changed from before, but I can see that I don't have it screwed in all the way into the right hand plastic piece as the balance with the Carbtune doesn't require it to be now so I have a few threads now visible vs. the locking nut on the RHS. Witness paint - there's plenty of that on here from the prior owner...I'm going to have to scrape it off and apply fresh stuff!

Thanks for the almost immediate reply Docc, I had that thread printed out next to me and followed it step by step several times now. However, I couldn't see anyway to adjust the high idle screw, so I didn't adjust it at all, I tested it with a screwdriver gently, but didn't seem to even budge, and I didn't want to force it. Maybe that's part of what's missing, I'm just reluctant to break something here as that leads me down a path of having to source more parts. With regards to the TPS, snapped or held snug manually, it still reads 0.157mv at full closure and after tightening the screws, it's dead nuts on, so the old and new TPS are not walking anywhere! They're on a tight leash! Can you confirm if your high idle screw does turn easily or is it quite stiff? Thank you!! P.D. I'm still scratching my head as to how the old TPS set at 0.350 could allow the bike to run absolutely smoothly however...I mean, that's seriously out of spec...

A project years in the making...finally tackled it...but not happy with results. Having finally decided to tackle the TPS setting, despite having no issues, I figured it was time to do the 1 thing I have never done on the Tune up list, after having done absolutely everything else on the list with meticulous attention. I connected the new Casper cable (so that's how it works...aha!), connected the voltmeter, disconnected throttle linkage and see the TPS is registering 0.350mv...well, that's supposed to be .157...hhm, I wonder why the bike runs well despite that, I ponder. Thinking, well surely it will run even better when I set it properly! Premature delusions of grandeur dancing in my head! Ok, remove the old TPS, look inside, pretty oxidized with some crud, so I clean it out thoroughly, re- connect the TPS, back out the idle screws on both sides so they are not touching the cams, snap the RH throttle several times until it's well and truly seated and get it set on the nose at 0.157mv, and snugged in tight. All good, put it at full throttle still disconnected from the linkage, and it reads 4.70...sounds like I'm in the right range. Ok, mission accomplished on the TPS. Connect it all back up again, remove and clean air screws, blow some throttle body cleaner into the TB's, then set the air screws 1 full turn out each, reconnect linkage, get idle screws touching, bike idling like crap, and tons of flat spots and coughing. Put a fresh set of plugs in just for fun also. Cranked it up, idling low, and start adjusting as per the write up here. Played with it a few more times, getting it nicely balanced with the Carbtune, idling beautifully, air screws 1 full rotation turned out, and I still have a flat spot/cough at low rpm's (1.5K to 3k RPMs') that was NEVER there before. Disconnected everything again, and go thru each step methodically, recheck TPS with linkage and idle screws backed out, and still seeing 0.157 closed and 4.70 at WOT, hook it all up again, but no change in behavior. I'm thinking do I have something clogging up fuel lines or something so I take it for a short ride, but not at all happy with the flat spot/cough. So...decided to buy a new TPS as recommended by Docc...came in a few days, installed it today, and noticeably smoother and I can see it moving in increments of 0.01 easily as I gently tap...so here we go again, set to .157mv and full closure with linkage and idle screws backed out...and 4.70 at WOT. Figure it will run better, and it does...but bugger all, it still has a cough. How is it possible that I could have had NO flat spot or cough ever in the prior years of running, with a TPS obviously set at the wrong point, and now with every thing exactly on spec (or obviously I'm overlooking something), I have it idling perfectly, Carbtuned and balanced to perfection at idle and 3K rpm's and I still have a flat spot/cough. I even went around and snugged up all the new rubber intake boots 3 clamps each side, snugged up exhaust headers (no movement), connector pipes (2 each side). It runs beautifully on the highway, but now, every time I come to a stop I know it's going to stumble when I take off again...until I get above 3 k RPM's again. I know it's not relays, since I had no issues before, no exhaust leaks, fresh rubber, valves set, fresh plugs...WTF? and just for fun I went and put a fresh full tank of new gas in it...no change. Back to the drawing board here...surely I'm missing a step somewhere...

A nice day of riding both the V11 and the 2V Norge...perfect weather to ride, nice and cool. Nice to be able to toggle between the bikes...each a great riding experience.