Yam350

Hello all, I’ve read most of the threads regarding the voltage regulator, in particular the issues with the 30amp fuse melting. My bike suffers with this although it does take a while. I’ve cleaned/replaced all earths etc and it’s fitted with an odyssey battery which is kept on an optimate. It still has the original voltage regulator and I’m getting 13.6volts at the battery on tickover which rises to 13.95 with the headlight (led) and heated grips on. It remains consistent throughout the rev range, ie doesn’t increase. The battery warning lamp used to work but gave up sometime ago. ( the bulb is fine). I’m looking to replace the regulator with one that Gutsibits sell as an alternative to the original type. Its part number is ELA28739 and it includes a wiring diagram showing it connecting directly to the battery which I believe is the preferred set up to avoid the 30amp fuse issue. Has anyone used this particular regulator or can I have recommendations for an alternative preferably sourced from the UK.

Sorry to go slightly off piste…….would there be any benefit to retro fitting a lambda sensor to an earlier model. I’m asking as I’ve bought a mistral crossover which has a lambda sensor port (currently blanked )

Thanks, but it’s a complete headlamp unit that will fit in the original bucket that I’m looking for.

Hi, I need a new headlight for my 2002 Le Mans. I don’t really want to go with a full led unit so ideally would like a decent quality h4 unit that will fit in the original bucket. I understand the original units are unavailable, and in any case would prefer an upgrade. Lots available on eBay and Amazon etc but from experience don’t give a decent light pattern. Any suggestions?

Thanks for the reply Pete. I suspected any gain wouldn’t really reflect the amount of effort required……I’ll leave well alone!

Muzzi Moto here in the uk are offering performance camshafts ( SS2 ) that I believe were originally developed by Raceco. Has anyone tried one of these newly available cams or the original Raceco items. Is it a worthwhile upgrade, and would any other mods be required to get the benefit of it?

Many thanks. I’d hoped they were independent as I can live without the clutch switch but wanted the stand cut out operational. My switch was still there and connected but had been zip tied to the bracket so wasn’t in contact with the stand. I thought it would be too good to be true but tried fitting it correctly and it’s working!

I’ve just given it a clean and fitted it correctly and it works….hurray! Thanks again Docc

Hey Docc, many thanks. I suspected that they were separate. I can live without the clutch as I always disengage the clutch when starting but would like the stand switch to work.

My bike doesn’t have the clutch switch and the wires under the tank have been joined together. The side stand switch is still there and appears to be connected to the loom although the actual switch is zip tied to the stand bracket and as such the plunger does not contact the stand. Pressing the plunger doesn’t effect running so I’m assuming the switch is broken. I’d like to reinstate the stand switch but I can live without the clutch switch so my question is, are they connected in any way or will they work independently? In other words can I replace the stand switch and leave the wires for the clutch switch connected?

Yes, one of the wires has broken just where they disappear into the epoxy. I’ve managed to dremel the epoxy out and solder the wire back together, and then filled it with new epoxy. I’ve yet to test it but at the moment it seems I’ve been lucky as it’s not leaking! I’d still like a new one though because if my repair fails the first I’ll know about it is when I run out of petrol.

Thanks again for your efforts, apparently Ducati, Aprilia, and even Fiat use the same unit so I can widen the search. To be honest I’d be happy with an old school fuel tap with reserve as I don’t like relying on the light.

Thanks for taking the time to reply. It’s definitely the sender that’s the problem. I’ll take a look at your suggestions.

My fuel level sensor is broken and it looks like the oem part is unavailable……has anyone found an alternative that works? I don’t mind having to replace the electrical connection to the bike.

Thanks, I’ll check out the vents.

It was more noticeable in the bars, and seemed to come on very quickly. I’ve since replaced the rear wheel bearings along with the bevel box needle roller which was completely shot, but obviously that wouldn’t account for the change in fuelling. I guess I’ll have to go through the whole thing. I actually owned this bike about 5 years ago and went through it all then. It’s lived a life since then but up until now I was pleasantly surprised how smooth it was. I’ve got the tank off and everything looks ok, although the air and fuel filters look like they’re the ones I fitted. Just a thought I’d filled up with petrol a few miles before the issue started…..is it possible that muck has been dislodged and caused a partial blockage in the filter. The bike had been unused for a while before I bought it.

Well it’s all back together now and the play in the bevel box is gone. I wish id read about greasing the shaft splines before trying to get it together 🤬 Many thanks for the tips and advice though….always appreciated.

Yes Pete, the washer was there. The bearing and sleeve were completely shot though which would have allowed the movement. I’ve got replacements plus new wheel bearings coming today hopefully.

I welded a short length of bar onto the bearing which allowed me to drift it out from the other side. Not very elegant but did the job!

The other day I rode my v11 about 50miles in a “spirited fashion” on a mixture of roads. It ran great with no issues. It was left overnight before setting off again, however about 10 minutes into the trip I noticed an increase in vibration and a very slight hesitancy from closed to open throttle. This hesitancy was very subtle and wasn’t noticeable at higher revs. On inspection there was nothing obvious and I continued home. The vibration remained but didn’t get worse. I’ve had look today and found the rear bevel box bearing was worn allowing it to move (I’ve got another thread about that) however looking at the bearing it’s been like that for a while so probably not the cause of the vibes. I owned this bike about 5 years ago and just recently bought it back. It’s lived a bit since I last owned it but seems mechanically sound and up until now was surprisingly smooth. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Thanks doc, other than the afore mentioned plumbing I assume the later tanks are a direct replacement.

As far as I can tell the driveshaft is all in line. I’ve taken it apart this morning and found that the r/h side wheel bearing has play (although there was no movement that I could feel in the wheel) and also the needle roller bearing and sleeve on the r/h side of the bevel box are completely worn out. This was allowing the box to have play on the spindle. The needles were rusty and the sleeve was very loose. I’ve ordered replacements and after a fight I’ve removed the old one.

Thankyou, I’m guessing this might cause vibration.

Quick question…….with everything tightened up should there be any movement on the bevel box? There is no bearing play in the rear wheel just the bevel box.

No it’s the foam pad which runs from the front of the tank to the filler cap. It’s raised about half an inch above the tank. Later versions didn’t have it.