Sporticus

I appreciate all the responses. Thank you. Unfortunately, mine is not at all visible on the right side. Time to do some exploratory surgery.

Hello all, I’ve owned my V11 LeMans for eight years and the fast idle lever stopped working a long time ago. I recently thought that it’s about time I did something about it. Without first removing the tank, I can’t find where the fast idle cable attaches to the left injector or the linkage between the two. I’m assuming it attaches somewhere there. Does anyone have info or a photo or drawing showing the engine side termination of this cable? Thanks! Scott

Gstallons is 100% correct. I’m embarrassed that it took this long to discover.

Happy to announce that it’s fixed. The only things not working are the trip odometer reset (I literally watched the reset shaft come flying out on the highway). Also, low fuel light is inop but I may have forgotten to plug the appropriate plug in when I last had the tank off. A brief ride today reminded me of why I love this thing.

Yessir!

Thank you again. I just got back from a fantastic, albeit chilly (wasn’t dressed for it) ride. Everything performed flawlessly and it even restarted after I got home. Today’s adventure did NOT involve a trailer.

And to top it off, I have spark again!! Electronics are not my forte, so I won’t try to understand why this is working. I’m just going to go for a ride (once I put everything back together) and see if I get stranded. Thank you everyone!!

THANK YOU!! You just solved the problem with your question about relay four. I hadn’t bothered to replace it (didn’t really know what it did). Relay five, which I replaced, just clicked away many, many times before the pump would prime. I replaced four and the pump immediately primed.

Draining fuel from the otherwise full tank as we speak. During my adventures with the fuel pump relay, the bike stopped producing spark. I need to further investigate the spark issue before going back to the fuel pump issue.

I checked those connections on the back of the fuse box and they weren’t corroded at all. I still sprayed them with Deoxit and reassembled. My bigger problem right now is that there is no spark at either plug. This happened after the fuel pump finally primed (after the relay clicked away for a minute) and the bike still wouldn’t start. I just haven’t had time to remove the tank and investigate. Stay tuned.

Checking the voltage right now would be fruitless. I rode the bike to visit a friend, who incidentally owns a relay tester (relay checked out fine). I went to leave after some time. Put key in the on position and waited for the relay to do its prolonged thing before the pump finally primed. Went to start and it just turned over. Turns out I had no spark. Related? I have no idea. Got a ride home and came back with truck and trailer, taking a ride of shame home. Further research will have to wait until I have time to pull the tank and lay eyes on the coil. On another note, the voltage at the relay has always matched that of the battery. Battery is low right now because of prolonged attempts to start the bike.

Other times the relay just clicks forever and I give up.

Update - I replaced the fuel pump relay and now the same problem is somewhat intermittent. Sometimes the relay will click once, the fuel pump will prime, and the bike fires right up. Other times the new relay will click sporadically (like it did before) for an extended time before the fuel pump primes. I purchased a few extra relays and swapped them out to see if the original was defective. No dice. At least I’ve been able to ride the bike a few times.

My battery must have been a bit low when I got the earlier reading at the relay. I just measured it again and now it’s reading 12.85 at the relay.

Battery is reading 12.85 volts after my quick ride. Yes, those are the relays I ordered. Thanks for the link that was posted earlier in this thread.