swooshdave

Regulators, due to the fact that they work by generating heat are going to fail at some point. So you either treat them as a wear item and replace them with a plug and play option or you replace it with a MOSFET which should last longer, although you may have wiring and mounting issues. Just a case of calculating out the cost/effort/miles ratio for yourself.

You may have much better luck on Wild Goose.

Look very carefully at the pictures. I swear it seems smashed. There are certainly some dents.

I had an experience last month on the interstate that has me agreeing. Heavy traffic, changing lanes to pass at 80 mph, car came into my lane and hit the brakes. A too quick grab of the brake locked up the front tire long enough for a loud screech. Scary but reassuring. how's the foot Dave? Here is the thing, better brakes aren't just about more power. Better brakes can give you more control as well. A stiffer, firmer brake lever that gives you better control of how much brake you apply as well as offering more braking power can be a good thing. On a side note, do you brake with one, two, three, or four, fingers? Four. I find l have less control with two. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mayberry? Barney got game?

Purely wishful thinking. Too much work to make it happen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's why I have an LED bulb in my 850T, the poor alternator barely puts out enough to keep the bike running with the light off!

I had an experience last month on the interstate that has me agreeing. Heavy traffic, changing lanes to pass at 80 mph, car came into my lane and hit the brakes. A too quick grab of the brake locked up the front tire long enough for a loud screech. Scary but reassuring. how's the foot Dave? If anything I’d prefer ABS on the front. Toe is much better. Nail is growing rapidly. The weather has deteriorated enough that it’s not the toe or regulator that’s preventing the riding. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can’t imagine needing more front brake than what the Brembos provide.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JM421VC/ These apparently mimic a standard bulb very well. Seems the trick is to be able to rotate the LED bulb to the correct angle.

Now this thing... hides the ugly under some really expensive carbon fiber!

That was the V-4 making the noise. If you really want to know what that sounds like go watch some TT footage. We never got to hear the 650. The 650 looks horrible. The engine is just hacked from the V-4 and rotate in the frame. The right side is just appalling. Did you see the shift rod? Doubles as a walking cane.

How about a pic?

Not the surveyors, the farmers. Most plots in the midwest are drawn out that way. Every once in a while an errant river or creek gets in the way. On top of that you get the massive pivots that create circles inside the squares.

I think you can buy LEDs rated for 12v out of the box but another alternative is these. They are prewired and have a built in resistor and are relatively cheap. I don’t have a specific use... yet. Pack of 50 in different colors were about $8. Haobase 50pcs Mixed Colour 5mm LEDs Pre Wired Light 12V 20cm Bulb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZIRPM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pvV6BbYDCD0H1 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://gtmotocycles.com/collections/electronics/products/emevr-93-06 They said this one specifically is SCR. I asked if they have any that are MOSFET and there hasn’t been a reply yet. With the availability of MOSFET regulators I’d typically lean towards those although while SCR regulators do fail it does take a while.

I sent them a message asking for clarification.

I’m not sure if you were expecting wire wheels for these bikes to be inexpensive because let’s just get that notion out of your head.

My wallet hurts looking at those wheels.

Also when you have things apart measure the threads and put it in the database. AN is not metric but I don't know if there is a metric equivalent, but I'd be shocked if there wasn't. I've been shocked before.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/automotive-fittings-explained/28780 Something I did not know. Thanks! Also: https://nicoclub.com/archives/automotive-plumbing-hoses-fittings-explained.html So we need to know if on the Guzzi it's NPT or AN. Kinda important. We trust @docc with disassemble his bike this week and report back.

AN is just a standard for fittings.

I know this brake light thing seems important but really, you need to post pictures of your bike. Where did you get the bike from? I think I recall one being for sale for a while in Seattle. There was also a Greenie up there so if I didn't also lust after a Lemans I would have to put you on my dislike list. Did you pull the wires from the brake light switch yet? Maybe they are just corroded? You do have salt water air to deal with up there.

Are you in any of the Guzzi Facebook groups?

Like I said before Electrosport was very forthcoming with which of their regulators are what kind, you must have just got the wrong person. SCR = Bad, they get too hot and WILL burn out at some point, usually when you don't want them to. MOSFET = Also a shunt like the SCR but are so much more efficient that they don't get hot (or as hot) and will last way longer. Series = As Roy said it has it's drawbacks. I believe the benefit is that it "turns off" the alternator so you no longer have that drain on the engine (it takes a little but of HP to power the alternator). I'm not sure how or if it would actually work with the V11 Sport alternator. Given the availability of the MOSFET style I'm not sure it's worth the investigation. The stock regulator is SCR and has the charge light function. If you get a MOSFET expect to do the wiring yourself (connectors) and you will no longer have a charge light. Because the regulator is more reliable you can get away without the light but a voltmeter is recommended just so you can keep an eye on the overall charging system.