swooshdave

Well, the good news is that I've never taken anything on the internet personally. It's just that this statement doesn't make sense to me. The grades do not overlap in their ranges. Did I miss the part where there was evidence of an oil manufacturer selling an oil as one grade when it wasn't actually that grade?

So you’re saying that different brands, for the same weight, may go outside the given ranges? And the reason is because no one checks? And the one reason is because they want to? And your personal example was due to scientific measurements? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think people use the argument that the ratings don’t mean anything to further oil debates. Which means two things, either the statement that the rating don’t really mean much is false or... it really doesn’t matter which oil you use as low my as you have oil in the engine. I have enough wacky conspiracy theories that I subscribe to, I don’t need an oil one. And yes, it’s going to snow this weekend so I have nothing worthwhile to do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://www.viscopedia.com/viscosity-tables/substances/engine-oil/ Pretty sure if it's SAE rated it does have to be a certain viscosity. I think that prior to standardization the viscosity may have varied. So, as it turns out, the "SAE weight" is a rather broad range of actual viscosity. The better measure is centiStokes@100ºC (or 40ºC). With fork oils, the spread of actual viscosity within a particular SAE designation is quite broad (overlapping, even). For example, motor oils marketed for "high mileage" engines typically are spec'd into the higher viscosity in the stated SAE "weight" range. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/viscosity-charts/ I wouldn’t consider that a huge range. Seems reasonable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://www.viscopedia.com/viscosity-tables/substances/engine-oil/ Pretty sure if it's SAE rated it does have to be a certain viscosity. I think that prior to standardization the viscosity may have varied.

Yeah, that's not me in the video but I did get a kick out of this video. If you haven't powercoated something yourself it really is that easy. you can pick up a free oven off craigslist pretty easily.

Is diesel oil cheaper that auto oil?

At this point I think the two biggest drivers of the internet is porn and oil threads.

Of course I would have assumed the standards would be for minimums and not maximums. But that's why we have these discussions. So when the label says "extra anti-wear protection (zinc)" what that means is that is has extra compared to... I hate marketing people. They need a nutritional label so we know what goes into each oil. Wouldn't that be fun? That would put an end to oil discussions on forums. Right? Grade Zinc, Phos SM MAX 800 SL/SJ 1000-1400 SH 1000-1400 SG 1000-1400 SF 1000-1400 SE 1000-1200 SD 1000-1200 SC 1000-1200 SB 1000 SA 0 https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=printthread&Board=1&main=73571&type=thread Oh, look, same range for SG and SL for zinc.

I prefer the metal version. I've seen the plastic one snap before.

You will need to report back on the state of the label.

I mentioned that. Which is why you should probably use a synthetic.

Your Guzzi engine is closer to an automobile engine than you think. My assumption is that the key difference between motorcycle and automotive oil is the need to support gearboxes. While air cooling is important synthetic oil is more than capable to handle the high heat of an air cooled engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You said that SL will also meet earlier specification. One could infer that this means that SL is >= SG. But then you say that SL ≠ SG. Whereas Moto Guzzi says to use an oil that is >= to SG. I agree that SL is not exactly the same as SG, but do we agree that SL meets the same specifications as SG and in some areas exceeds it?

https://www.rymax-lubricants.com/news/api-specification-this-is-how-it-works/ Also from the V11 Sport owners manual: "Good engine offer special features.Only use oils with high detergent power, certified as equivalent or superior to SE, SF or SG duty (this is marked on the container)." SL is superior to SG, thus should be acceptable.

Covered here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20063 No need to talk about oil choices when you can make fun of me picking out label debris from my sump filter.

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That's my torque wrench.

Dang it. Do I need to remove the sticker? I've always done both sides of the gasket. That's the oil I talked about in an earlier thread. I'm sure it will destroy the engine.

Well, no clip but I can assure you that filter isn't coming off. I got it a little too tight and couldn't back it off even with the filter socket. It's on there until I remove it for the next change. Probably 2 turns? I put in 3.5qts and it's on the top mark of the stick. Too much? Also I torqued the oil pan to 7ft/lbs which is about 10Nm. Which is for the 6mm bolts per the manual. One of the bolts did not feel good even at such low torque. I did look for a hose clamp but I didn't have one handy. Maybe next time. I'll need a video on the adventures of just getting the old one off.

Yes it will. Make it challenging to set the timing at 5k rpm, you have the chase the f*cker across the garage! I'm going to start a new thread and let you guys criticize my oil change. Stay tuned. Here you go: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20306&p=230249

I chuckled at someone thinking a Guzzi vibrated enough to loosen a well tightened oil filter. Commandos have an external filter and you can bet your sweet it’s got a hose clamp. Because 360˚ twins, especially 750cc+ ones will VIBRATE. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10930&p=119634 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14879&p=161684 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9670&p=109759 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10591&p=116638 I'm sure ya'll have talked this to death but one thing popped in my head while reading all of these threads, I suspect that loose filters may have been caused by non-stock (i.e. UFI) filters being torqued to UFI specs (not very tight at all).

Does anyone have a picture of where the jubilee/hose clamp rest against? Is it pretty obvious? I didn't stick my head up into her guts but there seemed to be a lot of clearance around the filter.

Is there a specific torque value that the filter should be set at? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk