swooshdave

They look like earlier valve covers, like the ones on my 850. But there is a good chance they are custom.

Looks like a 900SS fairing. And a bunch of farkles. A bunch.

He takes them off and uses them to secure parts to the fuselage. Like big Rok Straps! Now you can see if I ever update this thread I'll need to edit the first post because of all the noise that follows.

That and a hundred will get you a front tire these days.

Here's another great tutorial. While it says it's for a Quota I think they are pretty similar. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_quota_guzzidiag_howto_-_a_tutorial_for_beginners.html A video for setting the CO.

That's the only flavor of Gatorade I drink. Seems appropriate.

Agreed. I stick a length of .020 safety wire in the female side of the two wires, push the connector together, attach a couple of alligator clips, and Robert's your Mother's brother. Saves 30 dollars. (Guzzi content) Now you tell me.

Breakout cable ordered. It was $30 with shipping. We need to get one of those Chinese places to knock it off for $5.

Poking the wires seems barbaric.

For my curiosity, doesn't the TPS need to be connected to work and measure? How can you probe it at the TPS if it's connected?

The only way, or at least easiest, is to probe the wires going to the ECU? I don't see any other way. Am I right? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Just to be clear I'm not adding anything to the great instructions that have already been provided except to see if I can illustrate them a little better. I'm a very visual person and need to see things for them to sometimes make sense. I appreciate your patience with me! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I don't think they kick back like maybe a Norton. And yes, he knows the bike well. I knew the previous owner of the bike too. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

While this is a good start I can see why it would be intimidating for a beginner or someone who just wasn't familiar with a V11. So I'm going to try to break it down even more. The first attempt will be without the Breakout Harness. Apparently it can be done, just not as elegant. I'll update the first post as I learn more. And there will be pictures, a LOT of pictures. You cannot have too many pictures. I not only welcome feedback it's going to be required. Please respond and respond frequently. Questions will be in italics. I'l add pictures as I go along. So let's start with what Docc has provided and expand some more. 1) Using a Casper's TPS Breakout Harness (or equivalent) This was $30 with shipping and got to Oregon from Colorado in two days. Breakout installed. You need to strip the purple (pos) and purple/black (neg) wires so you can measure them. Leave the yellow alone. 2) Disconnect the right throttle linkage Prior to disconnecting the throttle linkage I took a measurement of the TPS. Not sure it shows anything useful. I had to use a screwdriver to pry the throttle linkage off. But it just pops off. 3) Release the upward facing slotted screw for the high idle cam 4) Back out the difficult to reach 2.5mm idle stop set screw To get mine back out completely took a long time. 5) Clean the throttle butterfly (if necessary) I was happily surprised that once you loosen the hose clamp the intake hose slides back. Very nice! As a side note I measured the TPS voltage before and after cleaning, this should give you an idea that you should at least consider cleaning it. Before cleaning After cleaning 6) Loosen the TPS fasteners only enough to tap it or budge it slightly, it is very sensitive. 7) Changing the TPS fasteners to standard hex drives simplifies the process (4mm/0.7 thread pitch x 17mm long). I had some screws that were the perfect size, except they are countersunk heads. Because someone jammed an Allen wrench into the Torx screws I had to use these until I can get the right head on the screws. But the countersunk ones hold just fine. 8) With a good voltmeter, adjust the TPS to 150-157 mV. Realize the TPS value changes when it is tightened down, so just repeat until you're in range. 9) Reconnect the throttle linkage I needed to use pliers. I also put a smudge of silicone grease on the ball before re-assembly. 10) Set the high idle cam so it just nudges the throttle when engaged. 11) Leave the right side idle stop backed out. Buttoned up! Like I said info will be added to this until anyone can walk through the steps. Especially me!

So, did you take a stock black flyscreen off the Scura? swooshdave has been trying to hunt a screen down . . . It might be in a box on it's way already... I'm tempted to take the dash plate too.

https://youtu.be/POT32XnRG_o Here's the video from my buddy Mike on the Thruxton. https://youtu.be/Pj-wl08JCBI And the other bike... My Triumph was a T100. Similar to the Thruxton but less sporty. I did have the flyscreen and Thruxton exhaust. But no rearsets. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd be more interested in adding more lights back there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And you have to have the special cable to measure the voltage or does that just make it easier? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So you can or cannot set the TPS using Guzzidiag? Is the ThrottleV what you want?

Is this right? It has to be able to move and it doesn't appear to be loose aside from what you can see.

What are the two rubber bungs/plugs under the license plate for? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not sure if this cover has ever been off before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The tank definitely has similarities to the V7 tank. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pictures or even better, video?

Well the nut is tightened back down. Not to the same torque but it's threaded. Pretty sure if all the pinch bolts fail and you are relying on that top nut to save your ass you're in bigger trouble than you've ever been in. If the front end is clunking, get off. #protip Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk