Pressureangle

You're a day late; I'm out. I'll have more made as soon as I figure out the costs and quantities.

Sorry to report that my last plate has been sold. I had 50 plates made, and it took 4 years to use them all; I can have them made at any time, but every plate sold is one less needed and these bikes are getting older and fewer every day so I have to consider how many to have made again. Certainly the price of manufacture and material will have gone up, and there is a minimum quantity for economy which I also have to discover. So at this point I will ask that anyone interested PM me and leave a reply here to start a list so I have some idea how to move forward with the next batch.

The fairing, yeah... too easy. 2 screws in the front sides, 2 in the tank ends, and the mirrors. The tricky part is getting it past the forks; turn the forks fully to one side or the other, and stretch anxiously. It's a bit easier if you have the tank off but not much. Putting it back on has the additional PITA of coupling the intake hoses. Overall it's very simple if a little aggro. FWIW next time my front's off I'll take the advice of others to replace the axle pin nut with a common hex nut.

My fuel cap is a leaky rat also, I wonder if it's the same as later V11s.

I asked Pete Roper about plates for the old square sumps, he said it's of no value except perhaps in the most extreme racing scenarios.

I bought a Pit Bull stand locally on FB marketplace. It works great. I have no front stand.

Subliminal co-inkidink

"Anti-Fascist Blues" opens with the riff from Rivers's "Memphis".

Caught that lead-in on ScooRoo's Blues, eh?

2003 was the middle of 5 years of not owning a motorcycle. The only time since before I had a driver's license.

It is with a 33" inseam and good ankle flexion. Just. One day I'm going to make a proper stand that fastens elsewhere.

The Sport has a small peg sticking up from the foot, about 2" long. It's a stretch to get at.

I wish I had a nickel for every time I forgot a sidestand. I was conflicted about removing the auto-retract feature from my 'Sport, but it's been on the ground 4 times due to the auto-retract, and zero times from hitting the stand while moving. So off it went. Starting in gear, not so common but pretty familiar also. :/

I have the problem of South Florida- heat cycles, intense sun, humidity and rain. I've taken to using aerosol Cosmoline on everything that needs preservation without lubrication. https://www.cosmolinedirect.com/cosmoline-rp-342-heavy-spray-military-grade-rust-preventive/

temperature sensor on my '97 1100 Sport-i. I think it's 'oil' temp but indicates general engine temp to the ECU.

A simple test is to connect a 12v test lamp in series between the solenoid power wire and ground. If it lights every time, look to the starter/solenoid. If it doesn't, look to relay/connectors/wire rubs. When you say 'click' do you mean the underseat relay, or do you mean the starter solenoid? If the solenoid clicks but the starter doesn't turn that's a certainty of trouble in the starter itself.

I use Jet-Lube open gear lube. There are many similar products for open gears and cable applications that are appropriate. Most are available in grease gun tubes. https://www.jetlube.com/product/og-h-high-performance-open-gear-lubricant

My warning lamp begins dim, then over the course of 5-15 miles goes on and off with brake usage, then stays on. Unfortunately it stays lit at 1/2 tank. Since I have the tiny tank, that's about 100 miles. Worth mentioning here that since my Joe's cam gears and new plug caps I'm pushing 50mpg.

Thought I posted to this thread- oopsie. I have a new spare on the shelf and an entire shaft assembly as well. One of these days I'm going to get up to Orlando with it and get a quote on having CV shafts made.

I did a lot of homework to find these. I tracked the manufacturer to Italy, but I could never find anyone in Italy who will ship to the U.S.- it seems to be an Italian tradition not to. The important thing here is to know that there are other units out there that have the correct measure on the box- but they are beyond junk. The only other vehicle I've ever found this size on are some Russian manufactured 4x4 ATV. I ordered some from China and when they came they looked like they were hand-hammered from poor iron ore by an upland Pakistani with two hard stones. I never found *any* confident source for the genuine Concordia units other than the Montreal distributor- I'm sure they can be had in Europe, but I couldn't find any path to order them simply- thus the phone call to Montreal.

This comment actually brings something to light (I wish I'd thought that pun) that I hadn't considered; The editorial I linked to says, without saying, that an inappropriate lamp makes ineffective use of the reflector and that prevents the light 'getting where it's needed'. BUT. What if I never ride at night? What if I ride at night only in the city, or only below 45mph? I might make the argument that having more wasted light, or glare to oncoming traffic, is actually safer under these conditions.

I ran across something I've known for a decade, figured I'd present it for those who haven't seen it. I picked this thread at random as an LED lighting thread. I installed an LED in my '74 Aermacchi and it's enormously better than the stock sealed beam- or the more modern high output H4. But it was also very expensive. I chose it because I have only 140 watts of charging system to work with. I improved the light on my 1100 Sport by cleaning the inside of the lens; my '85 LeMans was *hugely* improved by adding a separate battery circuit and 30a relay to the H4. I haven't yet relayed the 'Sport, but I expect the same level of improvement. I don't LED. https://danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html

Yes of course the specs are easy to know, but I meant that nobody has said they either checked it (but docc's wheel off checklist) or verified that it was tight to spec. ...aaaand you may ask if I applied a torque wrench to my own. I have not. But I have given it the ol' grunt test from time to time. This particular mechanism of failure is pretty universal in any device that has connecting rods or stay arms with a captive bushing.

I'm hesitant to jump in here but... This bolt's job is not to hold your rod in shear. This bolt's job is to clamp the frame tabs onto the bushing spacer hard enough that it doesn't move at all, and the bolt should never be put in a meaningful shear state. Nobody has mentioned the torque spec for this bolt... Secondarily, bolt hardness and tensile strength are not *necessarily* correlated with shear strength. Toughness is (which nobody quantifies on a bolt, it's a characteristic of the material of the bolt) If the bolt doesn't clamp sufficiently, and is tough enough that it never shears, you'll eventually end up with egg-shaped holes in the frame tabs as the weakest link wears. All that said, a harder bolt with higher tensile strength is less subject to relaxing over time and allowing the spacer to bang it every time you roll on/off the throttle. Meh.