Pressureangle

Yes of course the specs are easy to know, but I meant that nobody has said they either checked it (but docc's wheel off checklist) or verified that it was tight to spec. ...aaaand you may ask if I applied a torque wrench to my own. I have not. But I have given it the ol' grunt test from time to time. This particular mechanism of failure is pretty universal in any device that has connecting rods or stay arms with a captive bushing.

I'm hesitant to jump in here but... This bolt's job is not to hold your rod in shear. This bolt's job is to clamp the frame tabs onto the bushing spacer hard enough that it doesn't move at all, and the bolt should never be put in a meaningful shear state. Nobody has mentioned the torque spec for this bolt... Secondarily, bolt hardness and tensile strength are not *necessarily* correlated with shear strength. Toughness is (which nobody quantifies on a bolt, it's a characteristic of the material of the bolt) If the bolt doesn't clamp sufficiently, and is tough enough that it never shears, you'll eventually end up with egg-shaped holes in the frame tabs as the weakest link wears. All that said, a harder bolt with higher tensile strength is less subject to relaxing over time and allowing the spacer to bang it every time you roll on/off the throttle. Meh.

One can never have too much insurance. The only concern is cost, and this is not a place I'd save money. I don't have metal core gaskets in mine, but I will if the sump ever comes off again. I recommend replacing the stock sump bolts with 5mm longer ones, to be sure you have full thread engagement. Nobody wants stripped sump threads.

docc, do you need an engraved plate for your wall? I can probably make that happen before September. [docc edit/reply: Absolutely, @Pressureangle! I am all about supporting , and archiving, the community efforts. Just don't let it be a burden to perform that just for me.] (Odd way to reply, I know, but meant to avoid drifting @Guzzi-in-Vancouver's important thread.)

You said you disconnected the sidestand switch. Was it left simply disconnected, or was a bypass connection added? If it works without the switch but fails with the switch in place that points to a bad switch. My '97 has no sidestand switch but even back in the 1980s when I was racing Japanese bikes, everyone removed the sidestands, but the remaining switches put a lot of guys on the side of the track so we eliminated them always. I haven't studied the circuit diagram so maybe I'm missing something but the switch itself is suspect.

I did, and it's accurate but for the needle wiggle. I do have a brand-new (2 years now) and *very* expensive NOS Daytona tach installed.

Remind me to tell the story of a friend, a Kawasaki 500 triple, and being able to run on two cylinders... (Spine Raid content)

They are not. We did a few to start, but the stainless material and our engraving machine didn't like each other very much. To send them for laser engraving would have added to the cost.

What is it about that generation...of Germans? My Grandfather taught me in precisely that way. He was a WWI AAC mechanic. His 'right hand man' was a former POW Luftwaffe mechanic. Our family comes primarily from Frankfurt and Gdansk, though both in the 1800s. Learning was always interactive with them. One Great-Uncle drove a heavy truck through WWII, another was tail gunner in a B-17 and after surviving 10 missions with a dozen kills, they brought him to Pensacola to be a gunnery instructor.

I had a look at the part, it's certainly something we could make. We're in expansion mode right now and alternating between 'buried' and 'catching up'. I haven't even been able to get the plastic balance rod knobs made yet.

MyECU uses an Android app and bluetooth dongle to tune. It's a fundamentally simple system with complete ownership of the program. The only complaint I can make is that I need reading glasses and a magnifying glass to make adjustments to a small map area as the numbers are tiny. I believe you can export the .bin files into TunerPro, but I've not done it.

Guzzidiag? What's that do? I have a Jeffries MyECU. Yes, my idle speed on the tach is within ~50rpm of actual at idle. I keep it to 1150-ish.

Yes, the wires are yellow and I'd not lean on them too hard. When I did the cam gear set, I had it all off for a thorough inspection. Subsequently the voltage started varying so I verified the entire charging system; I found the connector for one of the yellow wires to have some corrosion, so remade everything. It charges better than it ever has, always between 14.4 and 14.8 at speed and goes over 13.0 by 1500rpm. It's just weak at idle. I do have an aftermarket fuel pump, perhaps it draws more than the stock pump did.

I actually bought a Shindengen kit, but there is no convenient location. If I install it, I'll have to spend a lot more time studying the problem.

Yes, I considered much; the symptoms were very similar to losing a cam position sensor. But replacing the relay brought it instantly back to normal. I saved the old relay, and I'll be decapitating it to see what it looks like inside. There isn't much room for anything under the rear seat, just a small compartment behind the battery and in front of the taillamp.

I'd fully serviced my relay connections with DeOxit, tightened spades and installed genuine (?) Omron relays per much discussion. I was in Daytona this weekend (not preferred, but old friends in town) and after a half hour of stop-n-go traffic in hot sun, 88*, just as I approaching a parking lot I began losing power, eventually barely moving, then only idling, then sputtering to a stop. Fortunately I drifted into a parking spot. I immediately removed the rear seat and felt the relays (1100 sport has 4) 3 were hot, #2, fuel pump, was too hot. I restarted twice, both times with sputtering and dying. I installed one of the spare relays we all carry and it seemed all was right again. Obviously, the air, pavement, and engine temps were very high, with no air movement under the seat. Also, my bike only holds 12.4 volts at idle, so current through the relay was higher than at RPM. It's rare that I enter any sort of traffic, but I thought a simple enough solution is to mount a computer fan to blow across them. There's plenty of room outboard in the tailpiece, so I'll be doing some discovery on that pretty soon. I'll see if I can't engineer some test scenarios with heat gun and pictures.

Is that spark ignited, or diesel?

Those are easy enough, but the ones on my 1100 Sport-i instrument cluster are female on one side, half rubber half brass and just WHY? WHY? I glued 2 of mine back together, bought the last one from Harper's, and have no idea where to go if they fail.

Peru is the second poorest Country in South America. But they this year upgraded from Bajaj to Honda. Still 200cc.

I think the drive in my '89 Mille had never been opened. Dry, a little corrosion on the aluminum hub, a little rust on the steel drive plate. Add 30 years and it was a bit like changing a very stiff motocross knobby with a pair of 6" screwdrivers. It only popped out with two 24" pry bars and the abandonment of any concern for damage to the hub or splines.

Note; last time apart, I lubricated my drive rubbers with silicone grease. Works a charm! Except for the part where when it gets warm it ejects blackened silicone grease out the cracks and paints my rear rim with gooey tar. Fortunately it cleans up easily. The message here is use lube sparingly. I'd use spray silicone next time, and just a dusting.

I reached out to Joe a couple seasons ago and told him when he's ready to throw in the towel I'd source the gears for the community.

Correct of course, but you've missed the point. It's not the engine we're concerned with, but the handlebars and footpegs and seat. These things have resonant frequencies, and riding with engine RPM in those resonant ranges is uncomfortable. Changing balance factors can uncouple resonant auxilliaries. My carrillo engine is not smoother because it shakes less, but because it isn't felt in the frame and controls. Vibration energy is a function of crankshaft rotating weight, which tries to drag the engine cases with it in a circle. The weight of the reciprocating parts counteracts that even, circular pull but only in the plane of the cylinder; The median balance factor is 50% (that is, crank counterweight is 50% of reciprocating) which then reverses the rotation of the crank action against the cases and minimizes the peak energy at any given direction. A 100% balance factor ends vertical shake (for vertical cylinders) but then the horizontal peak has become twice as energetic. I suspect you know most of this already but it's clarity in the classroom.