Pressureangle

This is the same lamp I installed in my Aermacchi, and it's absolutely lovely. Far better than the Phillips sealed beam I had before, and far less load on the charging system.

Here's another bit, specifically addressing HID 'upgrades' not LED but the points and questions remain. Personally, I believe that if an LED allows me to see better than the standard incandescent lamp, I'd use it. If, as on my Aermacchi with it's 140 watt charging system, an incandescent puts the battery charging at risk, an LED is preferred and installed. But my own experience is that I'd rather upgrade the wiring and plug to use a 55w/100w incandescent than an unknown quality LED which may not put the light where I want it. Education and judgement are always in the hands of the user. https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html

H4s are about 3/4 down the page. Daniel Stern is one of the largest OEM lighting engineering firms in the world. He's also a classic Mopar guy which is how I came to know him. There's 6 metric tons of knowledge on his website. I haven't reviewed it lately for updated LED information but it doesn't seem that he sells any. I haven't replaced my headlamp bulb since owning the bike, but when I do I'll buy here rather than risk the attendant problems with unproven LEDs. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

I can't think of any reason this check is part of 'routine' maintenance except as a *non-disassembled* check for loosening bearings. On something larger and quieter, one would only ever check wear pattern if the gears became noisy.

ok, now that I understand what is at hand, No, don't touch it. Hypoid gears are carefully set when new and wear in together. If you change anything at all, they will have to wear in again- at best- and you run the risk of point loading them and overheating or seriously wearing them. When re-assembling a hypoid gear set that's worn in, you don't even check the pattern on the drive face; you check the pattern on the coasting face because it's more accurate as it's smaller and doesn't have 'flex' built into it from heavy loading.

Worthless opinion; Trademark protection should be invalid for commerce which *cannot be entered into by the trademark holder*. That is, Moto Guzzi obsoletes a part, they don't get to pursue protection from those who continue to provide it. This thread has reduced by half the possibility I'll buy a new V100. Or whatever their new watercooled aeroplane is called.

Screws are analog, shims are digital. Similar to the warmth of tubes vs. transistors.

My '68 Ducati Jupiter used valve caps for clearance adjustment. I still have some around. A PITA until I made a tool to depress the valve spring retainer down in situ.

Just saw this on WG; parking passes required for Great Smoky Mountains National Park. https://www.nps.gov/grsm/planyourvisit/fees.htm

Frustrating. Nothing pops out at me. Can you go through the current symptoms, to clear the air as to status? I'm leaning towards an electrical issue, whether ignition or fuel. I'd remake all the grounds, special care to ECU and any grounds on painted surfaces. Not impossible to have an unfortunate concurrent but unrelated issue, like a failing cam sensor.

Check to see if some automotive valve spring shims won't get you there. I have a few, 15mm x 32mm and 22mm x 35mm.

I recently discovered on mine, while replacing a cheap plug cap that broke, that the premium NGK cap on the other side had open circuited completely. Don't trust appearances. What gets measured gets done.

But what of the Swallows?

Chester Springs to the Lodge at Tellico would be an absolute epic ride. SSR 2023

I'm making a T-shirt and you'll all be jelly.

Then what do I call the 'useful-but-unlikely-to-be-used' sh*t I've kept all these years?

In the sense that the 'boss hoss' were motorcycles at all, yes- The Ugly American.

Laverda 1000 V6 del 1977, costruita in 2 esemplari per gare di endurance, motore 4T esacilindrico a V trasversale, bialbero 4V, cambio separato a 5 marce, trasmissione finale a cardano, 140 CV a 11.800 giri/min, 285-300 km/h. Picture Gérard Delafond

Ididit

Whatever happened to worms and corn balls?

To add, a full-ring disc (of any sort, in any device) is more prone to resonant vibration and potential failure (flywheels?) than if it's segmented. As far as the square inches of friction material, it's irrelevant except for the wear factor. The spring pressure and coefficient of friction determines the holding power, although less inches means higher coefficient which means grabbier friction zone. Particularly with modern material science, what you see is more likely to be mandated by drivability and cost than by performance and durability. I restored a '51 Pirsch fire pump, which resided on a 'truck'. (wagon attached to and powered by the pump motor). The clutch was dual disc, 3 pads per disc of some metallic sintered material with no cushion in the discs and a pressure plate sprung so hard I thought I'd screwed up something during assembly. Turns out it was my ignorance of application- in '51 they threw the water hose in a pond or ditch and pulled the pump WOT on the old 500 cubic inch Waukesha. If the source ran dry and the pump sucked air, when you threw the hose into a new spot and the water hit the pump it would instantly slip and murder the clutch on a normal over-the-road truck clutch. Drivability was not an option- the pedal was hard like rock and the action was like a light switch. But it didn't die on impact while doing it's job.

I'm partial to my '97 Sport-i, but of the choices you mention the 1200 sport would be my pick followed by the Griso. This opinion is of course based on no data beyond optics and my own personal preferences.