Pressureangle
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Posts posted by Pressureangle
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59 minutes ago, docc said:
That could have been so much worse in so many ways.
Even the oil leak turned out to be nothing more than spilled gas from the overflow. A lot of silver linings.
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lol
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10 hours ago, docc said:
24hour SitRep ?
Y'all home and okay?
We're fine, if stiff with some sore spots. The Himalayan got a slightly bent shifter, the LeMans got a tiny bit of broken fin on the sump with scuffed paint on the lower fairing, and the 'Sport needs some filler and paint on the bodywork and the seats are usable but nicked up. There's an oil leak somewhere and the cooler took a minor hit from the wheel chock. Mirrors and T/S damage. Overall, insignificant. The trailer needs some heavy repair at the tongue and mounting points for fender/lamps. The truck, well, we'll see. There's minor frame damage, certainly repairable but not necessarily economical as it doesn't book well enough to warrant collision coverage. I may actually hire a traffic attorney to sort out the towing and insurance- 2 trucks x 100 miles was $3500 to get it all home, and there are 3 separate road service policies to sort out. The one silver lining is that I actually carry collision on the 'Sport so I'll recover all but the deductible.
The thing that grinds my gears worst of all is that I have front and rear cameras in the truck, which record on a 30 second cycle; I turned the key off before the cycle filed itself so I have literally days of record and the only one that mattered is missing. If you have a dash cam, put it on a separate switch from the ignition. It's engineering stupidity to have a device that depends on the vehicle's battery for critical events, it should be built with an internal battery or capacitor that allows file completion in the event of electrical failure. Grr.
That all said, it was a fantastic Spine Raid and we all had a magnificent time. Already looking forward to next year, and looking towards some 'pre- raid travelling around there next season (as this season is quite obviously at an end).
Thanks for asking after us.-
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Well. 1.5 hours from home got jackknifed from behind in the rain. Truck hurt bad, trailer hurt bad, relatively light bike damage- mostly my sport- but they stayed on the trailer. No injuries. Long night ahead. Meh.
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1 hour ago, Randy said:
Bled brakes and changed fluid yesterday. Caliper fine. Goes rhonk rhonk rhonk (warped brake rotor noises). Piston stuck some last year and I think it's catching up with it. I can still ride, not an issue. Just annoying hearing Rhonk Rhonk Rhonk.
Didn't bring the support wagon, no deadblow on board.
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Readying for the South'n Spine Raid '22. Went 200 miles yesterday, 55-65mph mostly. All good, 41.5mpg temps in the 90's and sunny. Running up the bridge on the way home, got a couple misfires so today was WTF day. I pulled the spark plugs and realized that I don't remember having new ones since I bought it... they look the part of 25k-ish, and on the 70% dark chocolate side of brown. Huh...I spent a lot of time working out my map on my 10k when I bought it. However, I thought that since the thing runs so much better with Caruso's gears than the chain, I should have a revisit to the fuel map- I installed the map I originally downloaded from the Jeffries website when I first installed the MyECU. The map (Raz's, if anyone's asking) was too lean pretty much everywhere at first and I added 5-15% to it where it needed it. So today, with a new set of plugs in, I snapped in the original unaltered Raz map and well what do you know... it's very smooth and feels perfect so far, with only a teeny leanness while 'coasting' in first gear at 5k rpm. I'll have to leave the heavy throttle testing for the 'Raid. But so far, so good.
My partner is joining on her '21 Enfield Himalayan. That was the most of WTF day; since new was hard starting and cold blooded with a tendency to stall at stops. An improved ign switch connector helped, but yesterday after 195 miles it quit without ceremony in the middle of 3rd gear, with zero fuel pump even this morning cold. The slow bulldozer of science determined that there was some sort of unidentified (and undiscovered) debris in the fuel pump- drawing 6.5amps not starting, 2.5a when running, and after disassembly, flushing and reversing now starts every time and draws only 1.5a while running.
Now to figure out how 3 are going on the trailer tomorrow.-
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11 hours ago, Bill Hagan said:
I seem to recall that discussion now.
I remain, however, somewhat confused -- my usual state -- as to ordering .
The fastener is a M10x30; a 1.25 thread pitch I think. But most of the "tunnel" from flange to stop is unthreaded. Seems a pretty short throw for a thread fix, but the billet aluminum threads held it, so the steel fix surely should, assuming, of course, that it has enough space to seat.
Bill
I buy Timeserts from these guys- https://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com/time-sert/metric-kits/metric-kits-/time-sert-1012-m10-x-1-25mm-metric-thread-repair-kit.html
The kits aren't cheap, but a lot less than a new caliper. I don't have a 10mm kit or I'd just send it along. If the entry side of the hole is unthreaded, you can use a short insert and install it from the rear. Being such a critical point, I'd expect there is plenty of material surrounding the repair area but give it some consideration. A Time-sert removes just a bit more material than a Heli-coil.-
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13 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
Why? How much fucking time do you think I have in my life. I give away what I've learned here for free, you don't like my style then block my posts. You don't value or agree with the info then just ignore it. Same for anyone here, you got a problem with the delivery then don't read my posts or PM docc and get me kicked off the board. Seriously in the grand scheme of things I really don't give a shit at the end of the day. As a matter of fact I think I'm done here.
None here are children, Phil. Nobody gets paid. I'm not here for my ego, I'm here to learn and for some community.
We all learn a lot from you, and your 'style' doesn't ruffle my feathers. But I won't tolerate a direct insult to my credibility in the form of a Straw Man when a simple follow-up question would have clarified. -
13 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
Using the term "I was road racing at the advent" as some form of knowledge based technical qualification is amusing. A bit like "I'm a pilot so I know the engineering technicalities of my aeroplane". Some of the least technically knowledgeable people I've ever met are motorcycle racers and pilots.
There are many detailed reasons for differential pistons sizes. Some are more obvious and of greater influence and some less so. Some are mechanical, some are thermal and others chemical. They all add up to create the reasoning behind the design. As is usual when you start drilling down into the details there is rarely a simple singular answer.
Phil
Well Phil, why don't you spell them out for the stupid among us? Listen, everyone tolerates your irascibility because you know your stuff, but you would do well to internalize the fact that you're not some oracle of knowledge. I doubt that there's anything you know about brake calipers that I don't, and that I simply stated the core purpose without flinging academia and gratuitous erudition to people who haven't asked and probably don't care.
Let's not turn this place into Wildguzzi, ok? Slow your roll.-
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12 minutes ago, LaGrasta said:
Mine look like #5 https://www.proflowtech.com/the-technology/
So yours doesn't look like a sink faucet, clear stream? If it looks like the picture and they say that's good, it's good.
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1 hour ago, LaGrasta said:
Pulled the injectors this past weekend, cleaned them again. Same results, strong, single stream. As my original thread was questioning, is this correct? It seems no one knows if it should be a spray or a squirt.
My plan now is to be sure the leads are receiving signals. I suspect maybe not, as I noticed the throttle bodies appear dry. Maybe they could have dried by the time I got in there, but I see no signs of dry fuel. I don't own the injector noid mentioned. Before buying a set, any other way to check? Maybe with an ohm or volt meter?
Until someone pulls a real-life example to present, I'll say that there is *no* case in which an injector should have a steady stream. The entire fuel mixing scheme demands atomization, whether gasoline or diesel. It sounds like the pintles are stuck wide open, which makes no sense unless the computer is demanding it, and not possible on a bench without a signal connection.
Here's a video showing how to test the signal to the injectors using a 'noid' light- back in the early days of EFI we made our own with a 3- or 6- volt dc light bulb, soldering wires to it to shove into the harness plug.
Edit; sorry I missed the previous mention of noid lights. You can simply make your own from a 6v taillamp bulb or flashlight bulb and some thin wire.-
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I was roadracing at the advent of differential size caliper pistons. It's simply to mitigate wedge wear, as Docc illustrated above. The mechanism is simple, the larger piston has more surface area, multiplied by the hydraulic pressure so it pushes harder against the pad. It's nothing to do with gassing, it's simply a counteraction to the natural twisting forces applied to the pad, forcing the leading edge into the rotor with greater wear.
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On 8/24/2022 at 1:55 PM, PJPR01 said:
Another plus for these, I've recently also installed them on my V11 Scura...very nice quality.
Docc will be pleased too since they are made in Tennessee!
Made in USA. I'm in. Even if Valpolini is better, I've never put a second set of paper valve cover gaskets on any of my bikes.
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On 8/26/2022 at 9:03 AM, Bill Hagan said:
My "fixes" have been both unsightly and unsuccessful. I'll spare you the graphic pix of those.
Bill, that sensor is not particularly...sensitive
The repair doesn't have to be pretty to be functional. If you like, bring it along to the 'raid and we'll set it right. If at all possible, bring it attached to the bike.
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11 minutes ago, docc said:
I did that dozens of times. Too many times to count. Up until that "one time" . . .
Never again would I jack my V11 without overhead support.
"Acceleration due to gravity" is an awesome force to observe. Especially if that force involves your-own-self, or some "thing" (your Guzzi !) you care about . . .
An added overhead "chain fall" or ratchet straps are easy money . . .
Belt and suspenders? Or let your pants fall down unexpectedly?
I unfortunately have no overhead available. Hey, it's all about risk management anyway, right?
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For front wheel service, I put a Pit Bull stand under the swingarm and a small jack with wood block under the front of the sump.
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On 8/11/2022 at 10:37 AM, docc said:
Yeah, man, the coil wire should have a terminal on it:
That connection can be vulnerable to damage:
Oof, one more thing to check before the Spine Raid.
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I've had mine all over the place. It doesn't seem to make much difference. I've run as low as 24/28. In both the Tail of the Dragon and Running 90+ down the Idaho panhandle between Glacier and Spokane, they were good at 28/30. But lower pressure had a noticeable increase in parking lot effort, so Iv'e kept them at 35 both ends since and it's...still fine. I haven't ridden these Dunlops hard yet but I'll set the pressure for best low-speed feel because it doesn't seem to make any difference in handling or traction below racing speeds. Docc may have the most data on mid- to high-speed curvy roads.
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So the exact mileage for the previous post- noting that I never fill all the way to the vent, so a little ~. 44.8mpg. Today's ride of 150 miles, 45-65mph with light traffic got the fuel lamp right on 121 miles again, so I'll assume it's right in the low-to-mid 40's as before. What I see here compared to before the Caruso gears is a big improvement in mileage around town, low mph/low speed, and consistently as good as ever before- which was not consistent. I'll eventually be testing whether I can cut fuel at these cruising speeds.
Today's food for thought; my roomie's Enfield Himalayan, just across 2k miles today, quit twice. Both times while hot and stopped at lights in town traffic. The RE's EVAP system is pointed to in anecdotes elsewhere. The second time, I pulled over and shut mine off. When I got her down the road, mine backfired and blew the RH throttle body off the manifold. That's never happened before (a backfire) and I'm blaming both bikes' issues on the increasing crap factor of the sewage they sell out of the gas pumps. Meh. -
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Took the 'Sport out the past 2 days, about 120 miles each day. Hot and sunny, in the 90s. First day was all 35-55mph, leisurely tooling without a lot of stops or traffic. I was very surprised to find on the fill-up the next morning it returned something over 50mpg- I did note that the fuel warning lamp came on at 102 miles. It has always come on at about half, ridiculously soon, so I noticed the distance. The second day, same weather but mostly 50-65mph, light traffic and a little town. My fuel lamp didn't come on until 120 miles of 127. Next fill I'll report the exact mileage.
The notes here are that in ~15k miles the best mileage I've ever seen before is about 45, and that was also in very hot weather with steady open 55-70mph roads.
I haven't done anything at all to the fuel system, nor changed the spark or fuel maps from previous rides. Unfortunately I did make more than one change since at once so I can't be specific as to cause. I installed the Caruso cam gears, and I will attribute the majority of the increase in mpg to them as the bike runs so much better at all speeds that it proves better efficiency. It has brand new Dunlop SS Road IVs at sidewall pressure. I changed the trans and bevel lubricant to Chevron Delo ESI 85-140. The last bit is worth watching, as the transmission seems quieter than with the RedLine shockproof although I changed the location of my camera microphone which makes objective measurement impossible. We'll do a temperature check at the Spine Raid to see if there is a meaningful reduction from other oils.-
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59 minutes ago, docc said:
Removing and replacing the GB carburettor makes the V11 injectors look like a cake walk (they're not).
I would be trying to run some fresh fuel (non-ethanol for the GB) with fuel system cleaner through both. I know restorationists that swear by SeaFoam for carbs.
(Although your "CW600" might no longer have the factory airbox fitted . . .)
For 'in place' carb refreshing, get some Chevron 'techron' in a bottle from auto parts. Fill the bowl through the fuel line, let work for half an hour then drain. Add a half-pint of Marvel Mystery oil to the tank of fresh non-Corngas, run it through and you'll either be golden, or you'll be taking it apart the hard way. Seafoam works pretty good but I've had awesome results with MMO in both gas tank and crankcase for freshen-ups.
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My T/S flasher failed on the last ride. It had been intermittently absent or lit/no flash for some time now. I replaced it with a 20A max (why? Tractor-Trailer?) LED flasher. I had to add a polarity reverser to the base, and remote ground wire. But it's bright and quick! Better than expected. At 1.8 amps, should last forever.
Boring, but it's raining today.-
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I'm going to try adding some Elmer's glue to the motor oil for a couple hundred miles to see if that works
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Winkie time: failed phase sensor
in Technical Topics
Posted
If you have open circuit between all 3 pins, it's dead-dead.
As @Tomchrimentioned above, this is a very common Fiat sensor. *IN EUROPE*. As it turns out, *no* fiat or any other car that uses this sensor was ever sold in the Western Hemisphere- I spent literally days hunting it. Not available in the U.S. except through Italian motorcycle distribution (expensive) I bought one on eBay for $18 from Romania. Sure would be nice if we had a steady European source.