Pressureangle

I had intermittent starter issues ever since I bought mine, which increased over time to the point that it mimicked a bad battery- dimming lights, slow cranking, hard starting in general. Two years ago at the SSR it wouldn't crank at all, but later at home it started again. The long story short is that the pinion bearing in the starter was seizing. Here's the thread.

I'm with Pete. Wash everything out as well as possible, replace the failed bearing and drive on. On my last lube change I tried out Chevron Delo ESI 85/140. It's boron-based rather than ZDDP, has a thicker film surface and on my straight-cut gearbox made such a huge difference in noise that I wish I'd have measured it somehow. It's not on the shelf at your local auto parts but I think it's worth the wait to order.

Cinnamon. Bring along a big bag of Red Hots or Hot Tamales. Who knew?

Found CBR600RR mirrors are the fit for the 'Sport, though bases differ through the choices and some are perfect, some less so but usable. Also found (of course) that my voltage regulator has made doody apparently. Voltage has always been on the low side since I've owned it, about 13.8. More recently, and without explanation, voltage went up to 14.3 where it should always have been. One of the first things when I got the bike was to run ground wires to everything everywhere including the regulator so that's ok. On my ride to coffee Tuesday, left home at 13.3 and 30 miles later arrived at home at 12.1. Voltage rises some with RPM but never exceeds 13.1. I suspect one of the diodes has gone bad making for 1/2 charge and leaky battery syndrome. I've ordered a new Shindengen from Roadstercycle.com as I installed on my '74 Aermacchi, and even that weak suck charges 14.6. Now to decide whether to do yoga or take the fairing back off to change it. :/ Of course I'll verify both legs of the alternator too.

I used to teach my students first, "You can find 99% of all electrical faults with your eyes and fingers".

All inductive sensors I've known have been pretty much the same, called out at .025" + or - .010". The stop working near .050". Mine actually had witness marks on the tip where it actually made contact with the tone ring, but it went 20k miles like that over a few years so I'm not blaming that- however, I was sure to clearance the replacement properly. Heavy truck and many automotive ABS sensors are mounted in a simple metal bracket with a tight slip fit, and are set for clearance by pressing them to zero against the tone ring. They find their home when bearing clearance pushes them back just a bit. (This also causes many ABS fault lights when bearings are loose or enough dirt collects to push them back too far)

Just another data point for future thread readers; I re-installed my old, highly suspect cam sensor- I'd already confirmed intermittent switching with a DMM. But to be sure after thoroughly inspecting the ignition wiring/coils/wires/caps/plugs with new parts where necessary, I returned the old sensor to service. The bike ran very smoothly and cleanly but for a stumble about 4200 rpm. I thought perhaps it was due to overfuelling by the newly restored injectors but the following day on the third lap around the block to check fuel changes (to no effect I might add) it went down on one cylinder and weakly at that. I drifted into the gas station for a minute (left my wallet home so no gas) and after a couple minutes cooling drove back finely to the house, about 1.5 miles away. This was precisely the same symptoms I experienced when I first bought the bike- the sensor failed with heat. The before/after test showed the stumble at 4200 even in neutral, and completely vanished with the new sensor installed. Tomorrow I'll re-install the fairing and get a hot test.

Now I wonder if the ol' balsamic vinegar/salt solution would have done it.

So the 'Sport has a square glass headlamp, H4 and apparently singular to the North American 'Sport. Mine was getting hazy with age, so while the bike was apart I took the opportunity to investigate. I was surprised to find the lens to be glass not plastic, so I carefully applied some chemicals, starting with water. To make the long story short, I got a little out of hand, and having a spare I decided to try a capful of Ospho. Not much, and there was still drops of water from previous rinsing. It didn't clear it, but it seemed better and I dried it in the sun and breeze (was 80ºF here lol). Today I installed it and put the body on, and it's clearly clearer. Now I'm a bit remiss that I wasn't braver with the quantity and time stewing with the Ospho. I don't know what the haze is, but it didn't respond to water, dishsoap, electronics cleaner, or carburetor cleaner. I was afraid to use much aggressive hydrocarbon lest I ruin the plastic bits in the bulb housing, but whatever it is appears to be sensitive to acids. Meh. So if anyone else is wont to try such an adventure, it's good winter squawk.

On mine it's only possible to grease the front joint in place when a beer bet is involved. It's far more economical to remove the wheel and separate the shaft, which also facilitates better spline lube. However, a needle fitting couldn't be worse to access in place, and quite easy with the wheel out. The benefit aside from assured clearance, may be in the balance if one believes it's balanced adequately at all. I have always had some concern about throwing a zerk at 10k rpms. The pinholes are tighter and lighter. It hasn't mattered so far, but should I need to replace a zerk that's certainly what I'll use.

Oh and FWIW, I couldn't source a sensor shim; I was at 0.00". I found that a rocker arm steel shim is a perfect fit on the sensor body and fits between the screws, giving a nice 0.010" space.

The shaft on my '97 is different from the later 6- speed shafts, but I think the universals are the same; the zerks *are not* replaceable. I made the mistake of tossing one of mine with the old joint, to discover that they are a very low-profile zerk and it took me literally weeks and about 6 bags of ebay metric zerks to find one that fit in the joint and cleared everything in use. You can't buy the joint separately from MG, and certainly you can't buy just the zerk from them. A conscientious cleaning on the bench is your only real option if you can't get it working in situ.

I just received this one in the mail today, and though it's not been installed and tested I found it by cross-reference and it appears identical to the original MG part; it came from CARS245.com. Manufactured by Meat & Doria, which is cast in to the plastic of the sensor itself. It was shipped from Latvia and came in the door for $26.47. https://www.ebay.com/itm/193389988386 Chased it back to M&D; https://cars245.com/en/item/meat-doria-87074-sensor-crankshaft-pulse/ Cars245.com also carries the OEM Marelli unit. https://cars245.com/en/catalog/?q=87074 A lot of Italian businesses do not ship to the US. I did not discover whether cars245.com does or not; the item I bought on ebay was shipped from Latvia, but came as brand new in the M&D box. If you search '87074' in ignition systems & components within eBay, there are many sources, all in Europe.

Hm, recalling some specific Englishman's theory of maintenance...name's escaping me at the moment

Definitely IW-031. Now to the refit!

I gave up trying to link to Google Photos. Seems only half can see them from my files, so I upload them to imgbb.com and link from there.

Note on my report that they show my injectors as IW 091. I called and they said they read that number from the injector body; it could be a typo but he's asked that I send a picture to verify when they arrive, for clarification. The flow numbers on the report align with the IW-031 published figures and I can't find reference to any IW-091. Stay tuned for academic, incidental drama.

I haven't received my injectors back for install and testing yet, but I got the report back from Injector RX. Although I didn't have any 'symptoms' from poor fueling, I'm sure there'll be a noticeable improvement in smoothness from equalizing vacuum and therefore throttle balance, as well as better throttle response and top end power (a little). A 10% difference at WOT is huge. I'm impressed and pleased with their reporting. $46.00 including return postage, so about $55 round trip.

My methodology for setting street suspension is this; 1st, set ride height and sag. I like 1/2" front and 1/2-1" rear. Front is difficult to change, so 1/2" to 1" is ok. Spring rate is more important. 2nd, set compression F & R on flat straight roads with the sort of surface you want it to work on. 3rd, set rebound on curvy bits with increasing speed until you get where you want to be. There's no perfect setting for public roads, but it's good to know what you prefer in certain places. I keep mine pretty soft normally, but tighten it up significantly for the SSR because the roads are nearly flawless and very slow where the work is hardest.

I trust you physically verified the frame VIN with the title VIN?

Lucky day. Use Murphy's Oil Soap on the leather (or fabric) to take the gas out. May take a couple tries but it will eventually work. Then apply Mink Oil to seal the leather and any residual smell.

If I understand the factory 1100 Sport-i ECU correctly, the TPS value is intended to reflect a specific throttle blade position, which guarantees that the fuel map and the airflow match up correctly. If that's the case, idle speed needs the separate adjustment of air screws. I'm not familiar enough to make intelligent comment beyond that.

I have a Jeffries MyECU. The TPS can be set anywhere from 0.0v to 150mv but you have to edit the text file manually to reflect the idle TPS value. There is no way to know the airflow through the airscrew passages. The best theoretical sequence for balancing throttles is to close the butterflies to as close to zero as possible physically, then set idle speed with butterfly position screws, then balance idle vacuum with idle air screws. In practice, there is no need for either or both screws to pass any air at all, as no fuel is drawn in by them and injected fuel must pass the butterflies by moving air so having them open a little farther at idle is a good thing, as long as you can adjust your TPS to suit. If your butterflies are equalized by position at idle, they are equalized by position all the way through their travel; if you have significant variance in vacuum anywhere in the rpm range you have to look elsewhere for the root cause. Usually it's valve adjustment or intake valve carbon deposits. It can also be unbalanced fuel injectors, as the A/F ratio and atomization also contribute to vacuum. Not to be ignored is the likelihood that the camshaft is not perfect with symmetrical timing on both cylinders. You can adjust vacuum slightly by adjusting intake valves differently from side to side. All these are reasons I use the 80/20 rule on cylinder balance; I care most about idle quality and light throttle drivability than whether I'm getting 30hp from one cylinder and 34 from the other at 4500rpm. Adjusting EFI to perfection is a fool's errand if you're not being paid for it. If you're not certain you have everything satisfactory after your tune-up and balance, read your spark plugs. They are the definitive arbiter of your A/F mixture differential.

I use Marvel Mystery Oil (US brand, a century old) in the fuel periodically because it removes carbon, varnish, and white deposits. This appears to be actual rust, probably from the PO never changing the filter. In any case, it never washed out with anything I tried, and there's plenty in the injector screens as well.