Pressureangle

I use Marvel Mystery Oil (US brand, a century old) in the fuel periodically because it removes carbon, varnish, and white deposits. This appears to be actual rust, probably from the PO never changing the filter. In any case, it never washed out with anything I tried, and there's plenty in the injector screens as well.

TFW you knew what you'd find. Surprising the thing ran well. Obviously never seen daylight since new.

...and why to verify your source; these are not 'Chinese copies' these are *Counterfeit* in Bosch packaging, 'made in Germany'. I once ran across a Chinese website advertising counterfeit name-brand packaging. I had a cousin in Customs and Immigration who clued me in to how bad counterfeiting is in the U.S. market.

Actual operating spray pattern for green IW-031 Marelli injectors.

While I'm this far apart and waiting, I'll have my injectors cleaned and perhaps buy a new/rebuilt set for the shelf depending on price and time. I found these guys and an interesting table of injector data including our green IW-031. https://www.injectorrx.com/fuel-injector-cleaning-and-flow-testing-service/fuel-injectors/fuel-injector-data/weber-fuel-injectors/

Erm. Any contact information? I have a lot of scrap nylon I've been trying to find use for.

Some days, well, test your patience. Just putting the bike back together after the 'incident'. Fairing bracket straightened, mirrors in house, paint finished. Thanks to Curtis Harper for digging out an old 'Sport oil cooler someone deleted...(?) Started the bike- it started hard and ran like crap. Funny, it was fine when I took it off the trailer and put it in the garage. I had noticed that the 'feel' had fallen off a bit during the SSR, but so minor I thought I was just being paranoid. So I took the tank off and dug into the electrics as a matter of course. The left plug cap had been broken- a Parts Unlimited spare, non-resistor. I replaced it with a new NGK 5k ohm unit. I saw the plug wire was solid core copper, so I tested everything to discover that the NGK plug cap on the right side was completely open-circuit, the resistor blown completely out. So it got replaced too. That evened things up, the bike ran equally poorly on both cylinders. Starting not easily, idle smooth but doesn't take throttle well and backfires/misfires. New plugs no help. Voltage at all points good... then there's that darn cam speed sensor. The one in the bike when I bought it was dead, and this one has something just short of 20k on it. But it runs, right? So I test, and find it's not open circuit; test more, and find inconsistent switching. Dangit. Who has the sensor shims? I'm zero clearance which may have contributed to an early death, though the witness marks are very light. For your entertainment, testing a hall effect 3-wire sensor.

As of today, I still have about ten plates left.

I can, with herculean effort, grease my front if I lift the bike. When I'm done I look like a bulldozer mechanic after a final drive rebuild in the field. It's far more humane to remove the wheel, and I get to clean all the bits you'd otherwise have on your arms and face.

For what it's worth; My first year roadracing was 1987 on a Suzuki GSXR 750. I raced production, where no modifications beyond suspension were allowed (LOL) but a lot of guys rode the same bike in Superstock, where you could ditch the airbox and use a premium exhaust. Scott Russell showed up with a separate bike for each class; but the Superstock bike still had the airbox and stock exhaust. Since he was sponsored by Yoshimura iirc, I asked about it. His chief said the bike made more power with better delivery with the stock airbox minus filter and the stock muffler gutted than any other combination they'd found. I remember a couple years where the Yamaha FZR 1000 guys kept the stock headpipes and just put cans on the back. Sometimes it's smoke and mirrors. I have Mistral cans on mine, because the PO put the stock mufflers back on and I wanted the noise but I'd be interested in a true side by side dyno comparison of stock vs modified vs cans only. Crossovers have been done.

Funny how much that actually matters. Mine has adjustable levers, and if it didn't I'd find some.

See #7 and 8. Don't forget a new sealing o-ring. Mine had a nice relief in the crank end of the spacer to fit an additional o-ring for insurance.

As an addendum, After installing my gears I developed a front seal leak. I blamed it on the seal, but it turned out to be the seal between the spacer and crankshaft. There's an o-ring inside the spacer sitting in a groove that I didn't see- which was hardened and came out in pieces- and on my '97 there is also a tapered relief in the crank end which was perfect to fit another o-ring as insurance. See # 7 & 8.

Finally getting around to fixing. The annoying alternator leak was my fault, not the front cover seal but my inattention to the spacer sleeve o-rings. The rear one was absent (there's a rear one, right? There is now) and the hidden one in the groove was hardened and came out in pieces. Meh. The oil cooler mounting pins were torn from the cooler, and the mounting brackets bent. Apply hammer and JB weld, blast and paint to come. The sidestand bracket snagged on the trailer slot rail hard enough to pull the 6mm screw out of the case, so for your enjoyment a 12mm Time-Sert was installed.

I forget if this is your first Goose? If so, you may have Japanese wet clutch expectations. At best, Guzzi dry clutches have a short engagement and at worst are snatchy. My 'Sport takes a practiced hand to pull away smoothly at low rpm. My '89 Mille, even with the big smooth engine and flywheel, takes genuine concern or I'll stall it. The kid's '85 LeMans though, is butter-smooth with a wider engagement than either of the others. But none of them tolerate the carelessness of a good multi-plate wet clutch. They're more like driving a loaded tractor-trailer. Also, if it's been stored, the friction surfaces may be a little rough from 'oxidation'. If so, they'll smooth out considerably with a little usage.

On my '97 5-speed, I had so much trouble getting to the nipple and modifying grease hose ends I just take the dang wheel out and grease the splines by hand while I'm at it. There's a hole in the swingarm above the zerk, but it's difficult access at best.

I had to disassemble the terminals from my relay board to tighten and DeOxit the terminals to eliminate the intermittent failures and ghosts. Resign yourself to the tedium and you'll be rewarded.

Since my 'Sport has passed the 25 year mark, and with the real risks obviated by the wreck on the way home from the SSR, I've started acquiring spare parts that I otherwise would not have, even though my hope and expectation is that in 20 years they'll still be collecting dust on the shelf. BTW the 1100 Sport facebook group just posted a Kentucky Carb Sport for sale, looking for venues and values. If I had the garage space I'd buy the whole thing.

I think the bolt spacing is different.

I don't think it's likely that both injectors failed at the same time. It's more probable that there's a failure in the injector circuit. You should test the injector signal with a noid light.

I'm posting this here only because the forum will show that I take PayPal for the Roper slosh plates. PayPal has changed their terms of service in a fashion I find unacceptable, so I've deleted my account and will no longer accept or make payments through them. Cancel Culture and Social Credit Scoring is very real. https://www.dailywire.com/news/new-paypal-policy-lets-company-pull-2500-from-users-accounts-if-they-promote-misinformation

I need mirrors for the 1100 sport. I have the stock 'droopy' mirrors on the shelf I can probably work with, if I have to. I had a set of 'whatever' generic Honda CBR mirrors which worked plenty well, but were crapola over time with the finish and hardware deteriorating badly after only one season. Any recommendations at any price point? I can't go with bar end mirrors due to the Kaoko cruise control.

Another possibility, if you're up for the risk, is to move the end ferrule up the cable some. That requires unsoldering and resoldering the ferrule, something that in my experience is not a sure success.

Wypipo simply will not devote the necessary time to do BBQ correctly. The best I ever had always comes from old black men with a smoky trailer in a parking lot way off the beaten track. Homestead Florida after Hurricane Andrew, and West Point, Mississippi 2007 were the high points. While on the subject of rural cooking, I'll mention the Latino ground-cooked whole pig feasts...

Yeah...uh Back in the days of flat track and no money (I mean, reheating day old pizza on a licence plate atop the 55gallon drum garage furnace money) we used split-shot sinkers pinched on before the ferrule. Zinc is better than lead. The older smarter guys found copper tubing the right size, split it, pinched it over the cable before the ferrule to the same OD and filled it with solder. For the well-funded and connected, they used to make housing extensions in a few increments of length.