Pressureangle

Yeah...uh Back in the days of flat track and no money (I mean, reheating day old pizza on a licence plate atop the 55gallon drum garage furnace money) we used split-shot sinkers pinched on before the ferrule. Zinc is better than lead. The older smarter guys found copper tubing the right size, split it, pinched it over the cable before the ferrule to the same OD and filled it with solder. For the well-funded and connected, they used to make housing extensions in a few increments of length.

Open circuit voltage should always be system voltage. So if you measure the ground for the injectors (and whatever else) it should show battery voltage when disconnected but nearly zero when attached properly. That is, testing from ground wire to ground. Whatever voltage you see between the ground wire and ground is resistance, and to be eradicated as a connection fault.

Speedfrog is right, is my guess. There are a few clues here- First, you had no battery installed so it seems unlikely that anything electrical has changed. Second, your fuel pump failed; Third, your injectors are dry. I'll suggest that both the fuel pump and injectors are plugged with sludge from dried fuel and need a simple cleaning. You can test power to the injectors with a simple 'noid' light, purchased or made from a 6v light bulb and some soldered wire. My hillbilly shade-tree dark side says get some acetone or MEK, some long handled cotton swabs, and wash the injector tips to see if you can start any dribbling that way. In any case, after sitting that long, I'd have the injectors cleaned and replace all the fuel lines anyway.

An interesting point to the thread observer; the regulator in question appears to be identical to the one on my '97 Sport-i. Though my battery has always charged, I had suspicions about my system so installed a LED volt display which showed output to be a little weak. Improving grounds brought me to 13.8 volts, which I thought a bit low but I see in the schematic this is the setpoint intended. At this past Spine Raid, and just before, I noticed that the voltage increased to 14.2 and I was pleased but confused; now I have to inspect my reference circuit to see if it's actually overvolting marginally as is the OP's bike here.

Ok. The answer lies in notes 1 and 5. The wht/blk connector mate on the frame harness is suspect. You'll have to do some patient sciencing here. Pull the plug very slightly apart so you can measure the actual voltage in from the headlamp circuit. That should measure within .2 volts of battery. If it measures a difference of more than .5 volts, you have a meaningful connection fault. If you measure a high differential, measure at the next accessible point upstream; if the mating connector in the harness is not molded as the regulator side is, probe the wire where it meets the terminal to see if you have a bad crimp. I hate poking holes in wires, but if you have to to measure voltage in the harness before and after the plugs it's necessary. I'd start by chasing the accessible points first. I don't think it will take very long to isolate the problem point. Another point of order is to use your meter to measure differential between the regulator case and battery negative. Though you've run a bypass, it's still important to know the ground is sufficient not to have a differential.

I'm not familiar with the particular layout of this regulator. You have 2 input wires from the alternator, yes? Or 3? Then you have a Battery + going out to charge, and a no-charge lamp wire? You might try grounding the bulb wire to see if that's the ground reference.

The root of the rise in petroleum product prices in the US is that Europe has to import a huge amount to make up for the tomfoolery in Ukraine and Russia. You, and I, are paying for the economic pressure NATO is bringing to bear on Russia.

That's the harder part. If the reference channel of the regulator (I think all modern regulators sense through the charge wire) has any poor connections, the voltage sensed will be low, causing the regulator to up the voltage output. So next I'd find the first connection from the regulator sense or charge wire, and jumper that directly to battery + to see if that corrects the output. Beware that if you have weak connections in the charge circuit, you could have significant current in your jumper wire, overheating it.

The regulator has to sense a voltage differential to know what to do. A possible failure here could be that the regulator is not sensing ground. Use a jumper wire to provide a secure ground to the regulator body, or if it has a ground wire, then between the ground wire and battery negative to see if it makes a difference.

Seems like somewhere I remember shaft nuts coming loose being one cause.

Always the strange, unexpected world one finds under the stairs.

Shindengen 847 is happy with Lithium or AGM, by all reports. I put one on my '74 Aermacchi 2-wire alternator and it's steady at 14.4v, even with only 140 watts.

Fiberglass, and thick fortunately.

If you have open circuit between all 3 pins, it's dead-dead. As @Tomchrimentioned above, this is a very common Fiat sensor. *IN EUROPE*. As it turns out, *no* fiat or any other car that uses this sensor was ever sold in the Western Hemisphere- I spent literally days hunting it. Not available in the U.S. except through Italian motorcycle distribution (expensive) I bought one on eBay for $18 from Romania. Sure would be nice if we had a steady European source.

Even the oil leak turned out to be nothing more than spilled gas from the overflow. A lot of silver linings.

lol

We're fine, if stiff with some sore spots. The Himalayan got a slightly bent shifter, the LeMans got a tiny bit of broken fin on the sump with scuffed paint on the lower fairing, and the 'Sport needs some filler and paint on the bodywork and the seats are usable but nicked up. There's an oil leak somewhere and the cooler took a minor hit from the wheel chock. Mirrors and T/S damage. Overall, insignificant. The trailer needs some heavy repair at the tongue and mounting points for fender/lamps. The truck, well, we'll see. There's minor frame damage, certainly repairable but not necessarily economical as it doesn't book well enough to warrant collision coverage. I may actually hire a traffic attorney to sort out the towing and insurance- 2 trucks x 100 miles was $3500 to get it all home, and there are 3 separate road service policies to sort out. The one silver lining is that I actually carry collision on the 'Sport so I'll recover all but the deductible. The thing that grinds my gears worst of all is that I have front and rear cameras in the truck, which record on a 30 second cycle; I turned the key off before the cycle filed itself so I have literally days of record and the only one that mattered is missing. If you have a dash cam, put it on a separate switch from the ignition. It's engineering stupidity to have a device that depends on the vehicle's battery for critical events, it should be built with an internal battery or capacitor that allows file completion in the event of electrical failure. Grr. That all said, it was a fantastic Spine Raid and we all had a magnificent time. Already looking forward to next year, and looking towards some 'pre- raid travelling around there next season (as this season is quite obviously at an end). Thanks for asking after us.

Well. 1.5 hours from home got jackknifed from behind in the rain. Truck hurt bad, trailer hurt bad, relatively light bike damage- mostly my sport- but they stayed on the trailer. No injuries. Long night ahead. Meh.

Didn't bring the support wagon, no deadblow on board.

Readying for the South'n Spine Raid '22. Went 200 miles yesterday, 55-65mph mostly. All good, 41.5mpg temps in the 90's and sunny. Running up the bridge on the way home, got a couple misfires so today was WTF day. I pulled the spark plugs and realized that I don't remember having new ones since I bought it... they look the part of 25k-ish, and on the 70% dark chocolate side of brown. Huh...I spent a lot of time working out my map on my 10k when I bought it. However, I thought that since the thing runs so much better with Caruso's gears than the chain, I should have a revisit to the fuel map- I installed the map I originally downloaded from the Jeffries website when I first installed the MyECU. The map (Raz's, if anyone's asking) was too lean pretty much everywhere at first and I added 5-15% to it where it needed it. So today, with a new set of plugs in, I snapped in the original unaltered Raz map and well what do you know... it's very smooth and feels perfect so far, with only a teeny leanness while 'coasting' in first gear at 5k rpm. I'll have to leave the heavy throttle testing for the 'Raid. But so far, so good. My partner is joining on her '21 Enfield Himalayan. That was the most of WTF day; since new was hard starting and cold blooded with a tendency to stall at stops. An improved ign switch connector helped, but yesterday after 195 miles it quit without ceremony in the middle of 3rd gear, with zero fuel pump even this morning cold. The slow bulldozer of science determined that there was some sort of unidentified (and undiscovered) debris in the fuel pump- drawing 6.5amps not starting, 2.5a when running, and after disassembly, flushing and reversing now starts every time and draws only 1.5a while running. Now to figure out how 3 are going on the trailer tomorrow.

I buy Timeserts from these guys- https://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com/time-sert/metric-kits/metric-kits-/time-sert-1012-m10-x-1-25mm-metric-thread-repair-kit.html The kits aren't cheap, but a lot less than a new caliper. I don't have a 10mm kit or I'd just send it along. If the entry side of the hole is unthreaded, you can use a short insert and install it from the rear. Being such a critical point, I'd expect there is plenty of material surrounding the repair area but give it some consideration. A Time-sert removes just a bit more material than a Heli-coil.

None here are children, Phil. Nobody gets paid. I'm not here for my ego, I'm here to learn and for some community. We all learn a lot from you, and your 'style' doesn't ruffle my feathers. But I won't tolerate a direct insult to my credibility in the form of a Straw Man when a simple follow-up question would have clarified.

Well Phil, why don't you spell them out for the stupid among us? Listen, everyone tolerates your irascibility because you know your stuff, but you would do well to internalize the fact that you're not some oracle of knowledge. I doubt that there's anything you know about brake calipers that I don't, and that I simply stated the core purpose without flinging academia and gratuitous erudition to people who haven't asked and probably don't care. Let's not turn this place into Wildguzzi, ok? Slow your roll.

So yours doesn't look like a sink faucet, clear stream? If it looks like the picture and they say that's good, it's good.

Until someone pulls a real-life example to present, I'll say that there is *no* case in which an injector should have a steady stream. The entire fuel mixing scheme demands atomization, whether gasoline or diesel. It sounds like the pintles are stuck wide open, which makes no sense unless the computer is demanding it, and not possible on a bench without a signal connection. Here's a video showing how to test the signal to the injectors using a 'noid' light- back in the early days of EFI we made our own with a 3- or 6- volt dc light bulb, soldering wires to it to shove into the harness plug. Edit; sorry I missed the previous mention of noid lights. You can simply make your own from a 6v taillamp bulb or flashlight bulb and some thin wire.