Pressureangle
-
Posts
1,003 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
35
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Community Map
Posts posted by Pressureangle
-
-
9 hours ago, bentombed said:
Hello - my bike, 2002 scura, is idling really high - i checked the air bypass screws and the idle adjust, the bypass screws were almost all the way in, the idle screw just about that way too. after opening up a turn on the bypass screws and starting to unwind the idle screw the bike started to idle faster? i cannot find a way to slow the idle speed down, it was idling at around 1900, and now it sits at just on 2k. the right side idle screw is all but wound out. the is enough play in the cable and the choke is not on. I'm not sure where to go from here? I will read through the whole thread to see if anyone else has had this problem, but it cant hurt to ask
Your engine can only idle high if it's getting enough air to support the RPM. If your idle screws are closed and your throttle blades are closed, you probably have a rubber boot leak, or your balance holes are open. Double check your 'choke' to see if it's holding the throttles open when in the 'off' position. My own has to be disassembled to allow the throttles to close completely. I can imagine a piece of debris behind the handlebar lever on mine, trigger style not rotated.
-
3
-
-
40 minutes ago, p6x said:
Absolutely; you can run any combination you want. We are talking about tire/tyre allocation on a given week-end.
Instead of bringing three hardness choices for both front and rear, Michelin will only bring two. This is a MotoGP committee suggestion, approved by all the MotoGP teams.
Currently, Michelin manufactures and brings three hardness choices at every race. It has been determined that only two of the three choices are used.
From 2023, Michelin will only bring two choices. At present there are too many left overs, and freight costs. If I am correct, the tires/tyres are specifically manufactured for each race. Left overs are recycled.
I think you need to look at it as a cost savings measure.
God forbid you give the leftovers to some locals as freebee sponsorships.
-
1
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Speedfrog said:
I’m telling the truth, very, slowly
내가 다가갈게 천천히, 아주 천천히
손짓만으로 알 수가 있지
너가 얼마나 착한 애인지
-
5 hours ago, Speedfrog said:
After this highly entertaining and educative interlude where we learned about the virtues of multilingualism, the pitfalls of ear twisting accents and the benefits of immersion when trying to master a foreign language, we will resume our scheduled programming...
The forum pages are again loading normally, it must have been a temporary glitch, nothing to worry about. Carry on
Perhaps the translator took a sick day and the substitute wasn't fluent.
-
10 hours ago, p6x said:
When I look at the threads, thread pitch mismatch comes to mind.
The worn threads were short of the nut plate, and the pivot bushing was riding on them. I'm not surprised it killed the bushing, but a bit surprised it killed the bolt threads. But it was the second lever to wear on it, ~35k miles.
-
2
-
-
11 hours ago, MartyNZ said:
I found the bolt threaded too much on my bike as well. The lever inner bush was riding on threads, so was quite worn. I fitted a new bolt with more plain shank. Also the previous owner had added a grease nipple, which I thought was a good idea.
I'd like to know more about the rubbers you mention. I'd like to see what was done so I can do that too.
I have a '97 1100 Sport-i, which has the 5 speed transmission. I don't think you have the same ends on the linkage; the rubbers on mine simply push over a ring on the pivot housing.
As a technical point, the shift lever bushes come out like a debutante with a 1/8" pipe tap.
I really should have taken another picture...the new bushes protruded from the shifter ends a mm or so, and instead of trimming them I fitted a 10mm viton sealing washer to each end as a spacer and seal to keep the grease in.
proud of myself like a 4th grader.
-
2
-
-
23 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:
I'm very envious of multilingual people but here's a tip if you're using foreign language forums. If you type SLOWER in upper case it usually makes things much clearer and understandable. Hope this helps.
Ciao
Just like real life.
-
On 4/7/2022 at 9:21 AM, p6x said:
There is possibly an age factor. I am not certain, but it appears that many of us have reached the wisdom age?
I am on another forum about a popular console game, and you can tell some participants are a lot younger. Not that it changes anything in what they have to say. However they take offense easily if you contradict them. Sometimes message have unintended consequences as the intended communication is not read the same way you thought you were writing it.
Expressing oneself in English is also an issue for those of us who grew up using other languages. That brings me an idea. Do you think it would be good to use different languages instead of the one only?
six months in Italian, six months in German.... it would be fun! I think?
Drifting from the thread a bit; it's not your language skills that fail with youth, it is theirs. Americans have been systematically trained to eliminate precision in language, and it shows more acutely every year. It's my observation that the English skills, both spoken and written, by non-native speakers are quite usually far above the average US English speaker.
I can get on in Spanish, French, and German (after a little recent immersion) and touched on Pashto. I lament that I didn't grow up multilingual.-
2
-
-
I had been looking out the window at signs for Ruby Falls and Lost Lake since before I-75 was built. I was amazed a few years ago to find that these attractions are hugely interesting and not merely tourist traps. I intend to go back to Ruby Falls again, it's that good.
-
2
-
-
12 minutes ago, BillyB said:
Marc, mine is a lot better now but honestly still not perfect. All went back together fine with the new spring and it seemed to be adjusted well, but still at times the shift lever will stay in the down position and I have to let the clutch out to get the lever to pop back into the normal position. I noticed this was getting worse the last time I rode it a week or so ago and need to look into it further, but I'm expecting at this point it is due to a clearance issue with the shift lever/linkage and the frame or sideplate piece. Its a very narrow range of adjustment (at least on my bike) that allows the lever/linkage to fully move through the range it should but not hit anything that might cause it to hang up. Everything internally in the shift selector mechanism on mine seems ok.
Just yesterday I replaced the pivot bolt and bushings in my shift lever. It appears by the pictures that the later V11 has the same lever and pivot construction; it is easy to overtighten the pivot bolt and pinch the lever. Check that your lever moves freely on the pivot. Sometimes it's the simple stuff.
-
2
-
-
The Barycenter is involved, but not a clear illumination. More a more appropriate, if still difficult, concept is Moment of Inertia; the calculation of effort to revolve the masses *around* the barycenter. Specific to the leg-hanging-out, the rider can make minute adjustments to the moment of inertia between his major mass (bike/body) and his minor mass (leg) to move the barycenter to the tire centerline if it moves away. Anyone who's raced a post-1985 racebike knows the 'poor unicycle' feeling when the rear wheel unloads. When I was racing the fast guys were just learning to 'back it in' to the corners by braking hard enough and precisely enough to keep just enough rear wheel friction to control the rotation of the bike into the corner. Sketchy business and only for those of superhuman reflex. Hanging the leg gives another precise control upon braking, as having the back end weaving at all destroys your entry dynamic. I'm sure that's as clear as mud...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moment_of_inertia
Think of a bowling ball and a barbell that have the same weight, and how much harder the 'bell is to swing in the plane of the bar. Moving the mass outward from center slows rotation, and for these guys they can put to use microscopic changes that we mortals can't even experience distinctly.-
2
-
-
A half-hour of web search turned up zero DU bushings in 43mm. Closest I can find is 45mm- but they are cheap.
https://www.hydraulicszone.com/mdu-045x050x012.html
You might consider sourcing them from the WP service center, if they're not prohibitively expensive.
Pyramid parts ships to US, which is about $70 US if it's the same as things going the other direction.
https://pyramid-parts.com/collections/fork-bushes
I'd suggest that 43mm is simply outside the industrial standards, and fork manufacturers have them made in quantity to suit. If that's the case, your sourcing is limited to motorcycle fork suppliers. <shrug> Doable, but again considering the price and convenience (less for you than me) I gave mine to the WP service guys.-
1
-
-
10 minutes ago, fotoguzzi said:
Sorry to see but that bike looks really sick if not dead. Good luck, you’ll need it.
You should have seen mine when I got it.
-
-
3
-
1
-
-
8 hours ago, paulnaz said:
I believe they changed to the wider tail piece in 1997.
Paul B
Wondered about that also, mine is a '97. The piece was advertised as 'Sporti'. I guess I never looked for that in photos of the past. I'm sure someone with an earlier model will speak up.
-
Well, with all that in the background, I'd ride it through the summer and worry over it when season is over.
There's a strong argument that changing oil filters isn't necessary with every oil change; theoretically, if your engine never creates a piece of debris bigger than the holes in the filter, the filter does no thing atall anyway. Particularly since gravity doesn't make the filter a collection point, I would just button it up and enjoy it.-
1
-
-
6 minutes ago, gstallons said:
Make SURE you have EVERY bolt out of the pan before you try removing the pan . Get under the bike and verify all the bolts/capscrews or whatever you want to call them are out of the pan .
It's a square-pan engine, right? Not wide sump? If so there are 4 hex bolts in the bottom, 3 in front & rear, 4 on each side.
Even with Permatex hard gasket sealer, it shouldn't be so tight- even if so it should tear the gasket in half. Still confused.-
1
-
-
22 minutes ago, LowRyter said:
I don't suppose that heavy fishing line might saw through the gasket? It will be interesting to what will b done. More worrisome than interesting.
Hm. I did see an old guy carefully drive a utility knife blade into a gasket to start to separate the parts. A new blade and a light touch is worth a try, I suppose.
-
1
-
-
I bought a tailpiece on eBay just to get the pillion cover, and that it was yellow matching my bike. I paid too much for just the pillion, but figured I'd have the spare tail on the shelf. I thought the tailpiece was the accessory flat-sided tail, but now I think it's from a Daytona. Can anyone confirm, and would anyone like it as a spare? I'll just shelf it.
As for the pillion cover, I'm going to take it to the local boatbuilders and see if I can get someone to reproduce it in high-quality fiberglass and perhaps fit it a little more closely to reduce the big gaps they apparently all have.
-
3
-
-
I bought the beautiful billet shifter/brake levers from Harper's not long after I bought the bike. Somewhere along the way I've noticed that there's more play in the pivot bushings of the shifter than I like, so I ordered new bushings. Upon disassembly and inspection, I found that the stock (most likely stock) bolt is 110mm long, and leaves just about 10mm of threads on the bushing side of the inner nutplate/mount. So the threads and bushing on the inside are hammered. I ordered a new Stainless bolt from McMaster 120mm long, which should get the threads out of the bushing, though I'll have to trim the length of the threads once installed.
https://www.mcmaster.com/92290A805/
While there, I pulled back the rubbers from the shift linkage and packed them with the open gear/cable grease I use for my driveshaft splines. They were in fine shape anyway.-
2
-
-
Does anyone know what *kind* of sealer he used? I'm not sure even that matters. If you've made certain there's nothing mechanical holding it, the only thing left is the mallet. If there's a clean protruding edge somewhere you can get at with a piece of aluminum flat stock you can attack a corner or side that way without digging too much of the pan material off.
As a last resort, and I hate even to suggest it, you might take a cylinder and piston off and see if you can get a piece of hardwood dowel down through the crank and oil stuff to strike it inside the pan. Not a happy thought, nor a guarantee of success.
A long time ago, working at a bicycle shop, I was threatening a new carbon fiber swingarm while fishing through a lost cable. The boss said, "You've broken more expensive stuff than this, haven't you?"
I laughed, because he was right.-
2
-
-
Did you get the 10mm capscrews out from the center of the bottom?
That one tripped me up last time, even though I knew they were there once discovered and reminded.-
2
-
1
-
-
8 hours ago, gstallons said:
Stainless steel is DRY . You must use a anti-seize lubricant to prevent thread galling .
Buchanan's sells stainless lube for their spokes. I still have an ancient bottle I use for those rare occasions.
http://www.buchananspokes.com/categories/miscellaneous_tools.asp
-
1
-
-
Florida doesn't require motorcycle insurance; after all these years I still don't know what to make of that. I don't think taking the course over again would lower mine, but I could ask.
-
1
-
Triple clamp musings.
in Technical Topics
Posted
Figured I'd toss this out there, was burrowing through 'Access Norton' ancient posts.