Pressureangle

I think I can still fit into my leathers...

There's no sign of anything amiss so far as my fingers can tell. I'll turn the engine through a few times and do a leakdown test, wiggle the valve stems; if there's any question at all I'll have the heads done. I'll get a look at the cam from the bottom too, though the P.O. says he used exclusively Mobil 1 so I don't expect any problem. I'd hate to have to do all the work to fit the Web 86b in this one and then tune it too... It'd be ok if somebody had a forgotten set of Carrillo rods under the workbench they wanted coffee and donut money for too lol

https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_126&products_id=347

@pete roper What's your opinion on main and rod bearings, with ~67k miles showing? Oil pan had a light coat of the brownies, but been sitting a decade- oil filter shows '09 install date so maybe quite longer, nobody is certain. The owner took pretty good care of it, oil changes balance TBs etc. Used Mobil 1 throughout, he said. My inclination is to install a Valtec tensioner, button it up and run it unless a leakdown shows that it needs heads.

My front MC piston measures 15.85mm. hm. Powerhouse Automotive says they have caliper kits if I can confirm piston diameter, but they do not have master cylinder bits. <shrug>

Those are for the older round reservoir integrated masters. I do like to see all the parts myself, but some bits like the handlebar master cylinders are less expensive than expected so I may just buy new ones.

The front, though looking at what came out of it I'll be doing the rear and all the calipers as well.

Is it just me, or is there no master cylinder rebuild available? MG, Harper's, Bevel Heaven...nobody seems to got.

He's 10-12 months out so not taking any work. Says OEM parts are getting hard to come by, like lifters but everything for the heads is available aftermarket. I have some very competent cylinder head machinists locally, and with stock cam/valve sizes 80% of the power increase of porting is probably in the valve head and valve seat anyway, so with Mike's input (hopefully) I'll do it myself and locally.

Well, just confirmed I won't be getting Mike Rich cylinder heads. Drat. <increases motivation>

Everyone in the US acknowledges that the State tests have little to do with competence and more to do with revenue. I had a minibike, then a Sprint 350 in the trails (lol) then went flat track racing on a Yamaha MX360. The learning curve was steep... Kaw KZ400, then 500 triple, then Suzuki GS1100E. The learning curve was steep.

Ok, verified the plates against new gaskets- everything appears in order and it's from the same file as last time, I'll say they're available again and at the same price, and I can order singles as necessary. Lead time is about a week for me to mail out.

Yes, the original transmission is still where it was, and waiting. The title is clear, it's a one-owner bike before me.

So, Traxxion/Ohlins with Dunlop DOT race tires, and don't bother with the paint?

What am I not? Bought locally for a steal, been sitting 6-8-10 years with the transmission out, depending on who's right. At least reassembling and verifying everything. At most, budget off... anything can happen

FWIW the first picture is how it rolled off the trailer. I hadn't touched anything yet.

Ahm, no.

Day 1

I had the same problem, plugged drains and water getting into the tank. The tube that the drains go through are not straight either, and I wasn't able to get any sort of wire through them. The short of the long story is I gave the holes an acid bath with Ospho (phosphoric acid, don't know what equivalent you may have) poked with wire to the extent I could, and blew with compressed air to get the acid down as far as possible. After a dozen bath/blow/wait etc. I started to get some liquid out the bottom, and all the rust that had clogged the tube internally. I stuffed up the bottom with a bit of wood and let the tube soak a couple times for 5-10 minutes and eventually it came free and clear again. The Ospho dries and leaves any residual rust converted to iron phospate, so after drying with air and leaving overnight I sent some aerosol Cosmoline down the holes to be sure they couldn't rust again. I replaced my leaky cap and gasket with a nice aftermarket unit designated for Aprilia- dang if I can find the source at the moment. You'll also want to remove and inspect or replace the fuel lines to the injectors, and clean the inside of the little aluminum cups as they get the fluffy whites from ethanol and water. The end of the story is that I also sent my injectors to be cleaned and discovered that they were something like -3% and -10% from clean and it had never run as well after this cleanup. Aprilia cap Ah, here it is- https://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/fuel-cap-kits

Well, you did pick Vegas and DC, two of the most notoriously expensive cities in the US.

Remember the Window Tax? We've brought it back. Here's how I do it as an American; If they have given me individual service, I tip. 20% is standard anymore, 10% and a confused look with an accent gets you a pass on that. If it's breakfast, say $30, I often overtip. If it's an expensive meal, I tip 20%- but beware, some restaurants add an automatic tip, especially for large groups. If they add an automatic tip, I never pay more than that which seems normally about 15%. If the service is bad (because they know it's automatic) I have the tip removed at the register. I quit playing the 'sympathy for tip wage workers' a long time ago. Too many of them make it a game of guilt rather than service. Anything you buy to take home, get it at the duty-free airport stores if you can.

How many amps can your PSU supply? I bench tested a siezed starter with an automotive battery and saw ~450 amps. Have you verified voltage at the ECU while cranking? I've never tried this, so asking in ignorance.

Er, well, doesn't seem likely. My experience so far is with my '97 Sport 1100 which has a different ECU. I have a lot of simple homemade analog tools for simple checks- for instance, a taillamp bulb with wires soldered to the base which I can attach to the pump terminals to see visually whether it's receiving power or not- sometimes the noise and activity of solo testing makes it hard to hear. I would think it's standard procedure for any EFI system to give a short prime at key or power-on. That your guzzidiag (I've not used it yet) won't connect doesn't sound promising either, but if battery voltage is low that could be the explanation also. Give standing and cranking battery voltages for comparison?