Pressureangle

My 'Sport came to me with a lot of problems, all peripheral but troublesome in the 'trailer' sense. Once I straightened it out, I had near 15k absolutely trouble-free miles. With very little warning, it seemed to have a cascade failure. Fuel pump relay, electrical connections, starter siezure, it would run fine for a while then I'd be crawling back home or trailering home every time I went out. What it took, was a serious and dedicated maintenance to everything I could get my hands on without opening the motor. A big tube of DeOxit, new Omron relays, a new starter motor, new battery, remake all the ground and charge connections, new powdercoat and tires on the wheels, fix the steering head bearing race issue. It seemed a neverending litany of aggravation. Like I had to rebuild and remanufacture the entire bike. I excused MG because they're 'Boutique' and 'tiny'. But the real truth, I came to realize, is that I put 5 times the miles on it of any other bike I owned without *any* maintenance. Over the course of 4 years, in all weather, and often parked outside 'usually' under cover, in South Florida temperatures and humidity. I spent a lot more time maintaining all my previous bikes more frequently without really thinking about it. This only became noticeable because it went so long asking for nothing. One of my bumper sticker mottos is "Don't take half measures". This is a fine example of how I came to that philosophy.

Interesting as the majority of Italian companies I find things in will not ship to the USA.

Here's the best I can do with the pictures.

Back in 1987 I saw David Sadowski, a sponsored Dunlop rider, go to the Dunlop trailer and pull out Doug Polen's used practice tires to mount instead of brand new free ones, for the money race. That was everything I needed to know about Dunlop and racing tires. They cheat. I assume everyone cheats. I hate cheating.

Yes. The problem is, 2 of the coils are wired into the armature, and 2 direct to ground. The only way I can reverse either/or is to isolate the armature. I don't know if the armature will tolerate the current. In the 'stock' Aermacchi motor, the armature grounds through all 4 field coils with a total of about 3 ohms. I *might* be able to determine what direction the windings are in each coil, and if they're the same as the Aermacchi motor, isolate the leads and wire the armature to ground though 3 ohms worth of them. 2 coils in the Suzuki motor come to about 2 ohms.

I'm attending to the electric start on my '74 Aermacchi. They're famously weak and unobtanium. Here's my issue; a '72 Suzuki 750 water buffalo starter is a direct fit with an armature replacement, for the shaft fitment. Problem is, rotation is opposite. Simple, right? not so much. Both starters are Nippondenso. Original starter is Batt+ -> brush-> armature-> brush-> all 4 field coils-> ground. Suzuki starter is Batt+ -> 2 field coils-> ground / Batt+ -> 2 field coils-> brush-> amature-> brush-> ground. The suzuki introduces Batt+ in the center of 4 coils, finding ground for 2 directly and grounding the other 2 through the armature. This makes it very hard to reverse the polarity only to the coils or only to the armature to reverse rotation. I can ground all the field coils directly easily enough, to keep their polarity. I assume since 2 were this way originally, the other 2 will tolerate it. The real question is, can I ground the armature brush directly, eliminating the resistance through the circuit by 2 field coils or am I looking for trouble? Problems, problems. It does have a kickstarter, but it's on the left side and the sidestand is a weak point.

I have. I test rode the H-D Livewire, and I quite liked it. That said, I would not trade my Guzzi for it, and in general I wouldn't consider it a replacement for IC engines. Different and complimentary, but not equal.

I try to stay away from opining on experts so far above my level, but I couldn't help but review the video a number of times. Taka had things well under control on the brakes, looked like he was thinking of taking a bit wider line when another rider came in from his left, having slowed more than Taka could accomodate. Had this other rider not come into his line, I don't think the crash would have happened. I'm with the race refs, just a racing incident and no fault of Taka's.

I've done it. (only once when I was so far ahead I wasn't challenged) I've also crashed on the warm-up lap. Never crashed on cool down, though.

I only bought it for the pillion cover, and a hopefully neglected crash piece. I don't need any more luggage than I already have.

I got this tailpiece from Cadre Cycle in Ohio. They found and sent a bag of hardware that went with it, and the install instructions. It's a Moto International 'flat side' accessory piece, made to facilitate luggage which is what I thought it was from the beginning. Good to add certainty.

Figured I'd toss this out there, was burrowing through 'Access Norton' ancient posts.

Your engine can only idle high if it's getting enough air to support the RPM. If your idle screws are closed and your throttle blades are closed, you probably have a rubber boot leak, or your balance holes are open. Double check your 'choke' to see if it's holding the throttles open when in the 'off' position. My own has to be disassembled to allow the throttles to close completely. I can imagine a piece of debris behind the handlebar lever on mine, trigger style not rotated.

God forbid you give the leftovers to some locals as freebee sponsorships.

Perhaps the translator took a sick day and the substitute wasn't fluent.

The worn threads were short of the nut plate, and the pivot bushing was riding on them. I'm not surprised it killed the bushing, but a bit surprised it killed the bolt threads. But it was the second lever to wear on it, ~35k miles.

I have a '97 1100 Sport-i, which has the 5 speed transmission. I don't think you have the same ends on the linkage; the rubbers on mine simply push over a ring on the pivot housing. As a technical point, the shift lever bushes come out like a debutante with a 1/8" pipe tap. I really should have taken another picture...the new bushes protruded from the shifter ends a mm or so, and instead of trimming them I fitted a 10mm viton sealing washer to each end as a spacer and seal to keep the grease in. proud of myself like a 4th grader.

Just like real life.

Drifting from the thread a bit; it's not your language skills that fail with youth, it is theirs. Americans have been systematically trained to eliminate precision in language, and it shows more acutely every year. It's my observation that the English skills, both spoken and written, by non-native speakers are quite usually far above the average US English speaker. I can get on in Spanish, French, and German (after a little recent immersion) and touched on Pashto. I lament that I didn't grow up multilingual.

I had been looking out the window at signs for Ruby Falls and Lost Lake since before I-75 was built. I was amazed a few years ago to find that these attractions are hugely interesting and not merely tourist traps. I intend to go back to Ruby Falls again, it's that good.

Just yesterday I replaced the pivot bolt and bushings in my shift lever. It appears by the pictures that the later V11 has the same lever and pivot construction; it is easy to overtighten the pivot bolt and pinch the lever. Check that your lever moves freely on the pivot. Sometimes it's the simple stuff.

The Barycenter is involved, but not a clear illumination. More a more appropriate, if still difficult, concept is Moment of Inertia; the calculation of effort to revolve the masses *around* the barycenter. Specific to the leg-hanging-out, the rider can make minute adjustments to the moment of inertia between his major mass (bike/body) and his minor mass (leg) to move the barycenter to the tire centerline if it moves away. Anyone who's raced a post-1985 racebike knows the 'poor unicycle' feeling when the rear wheel unloads. When I was racing the fast guys were just learning to 'back it in' to the corners by braking hard enough and precisely enough to keep just enough rear wheel friction to control the rotation of the bike into the corner. Sketchy business and only for those of superhuman reflex. Hanging the leg gives another precise control upon braking, as having the back end weaving at all destroys your entry dynamic. I'm sure that's as clear as mud... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moment_of_inertia Think of a bowling ball and a barbell that have the same weight, and how much harder the 'bell is to swing in the plane of the bar. Moving the mass outward from center slows rotation, and for these guys they can put to use microscopic changes that we mortals can't even experience distinctly.

A half-hour of web search turned up zero DU bushings in 43mm. Closest I can find is 45mm- but they are cheap. https://www.hydraulicszone.com/mdu-045x050x012.html You might consider sourcing them from the WP service center, if they're not prohibitively expensive. Pyramid parts ships to US, which is about $70 US if it's the same as things going the other direction. https://pyramid-parts.com/collections/fork-bushes I'd suggest that 43mm is simply outside the industrial standards, and fork manufacturers have them made in quantity to suit. If that's the case, your sourcing is limited to motorcycle fork suppliers. <shrug> Doable, but again considering the price and convenience (less for you than me) I gave mine to the WP service guys.

You should have seen mine when I got it.